Popeye using a Donkey Kong power supply debate

[dkblue]

Has anyone solved the great "can you run a 2 board Popeye with a Donkey Kong power supply" debate?

I've seen a few threads on here but none seem to have a definite resolution. Some people say yes, some say no.

There's also conflicting information out there about what voltages are and aren't used. I'm pretty sure every place agrees that the -5V isn't used for Popeye. However, one big question is the +24V.

If you look here at http://www.arcade-museum.com/pinouts-game/9090.html , you'll see that there is no +24V on pin 20. However, if you click on the manual link ( http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Popeye.pdf ), it shows +24V on pin 20.

MikesArcade.com shows the +24V on pin 20 as well (http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Nintendo_Classic.html).

My plan is to use a DK3 harness, remove the -5V and +24V and see what happens. Everything else (video, sound, etc) seems to be the same or really similar.

Has anyone tried this? I saw someone say they smoked a Popeye hooking it up to a DK ps, but I don't think they took the time to remove the -5V or +24V.

Any suggestions? If all the voltages are there (and Donkey Kong shows there's +24V as well http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/dkong1.pdf) and it's wired correctly, is there any reason it wouldn't work?

 

[NERDtendo]

The best solution made so far is the Dokert Nintendo Super Harness. The one, universal, wiring harness allows you to play all of the "Family of Five" (Popeye, Mario Bros., Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong Junior, and Donkey Kong 3) off one power supply. I have one and have been able to successfully play all five games from my PP7B power supply. However, Dokert hasn't made any of these for over a year (he said he plans to make them again though).

Also, the +24V is to power the coin counter I believe. Therefore, any Nintendo game that utilizes the coin counter will use the +24V.

 

[Tighe]

Do you have to switch the boards to switch games? I am guessing yes?

 

[NERDtendo]

Yes. It's just a wiring solution...not a switcher. It still makes life very easy if you don't have a dedicated Nintendo cab for each of the games.

 

[ELutz]

Popeye uses 5VDC and 24VDC. The 24VDC is only used to run the coin meter. It is not necessary to power the motherboard and you can play the game fine without it.

Donkey Kong uses 5VDC, 12VDC, -5VDC, and 24VDC. The 24VDC is the same as Popeye.....only used to run the coin meters.

You need to remove the 12VDC and -5VDC power lines.

Edward

 

[dkblue]

Popeye uses 5VDC and 24VDC. The 24VDC is only used to run the coin meter. It is not necessary to power the motherboard and you can play the game fine without it.

Donkey Kong uses 5VDC, 12VDC, -5VDC, and 24VDC. The 24VDC is the same as Popeye.....only used to run the coin meters.

You need to remove the 12VDC and -5VDC power lines.

Edward

Excellent, thanks. That's the most definitive answer I've seen in any of the threads so far (and the one that makes the most sense).

Thanks for pointing out the 12V. I had noticed it last night when looking through the manuals but it didn't register this morning.

 

[JamBurglar]

The best solution made so far is the Dokert Nintendo Super Harness. The one, universal, wiring harness allows you to play all of the "Family of Five" (Popeye, Mario Bros., Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong Junior, and Donkey Kong 3) off one power supply. I have one and have been able to successfully play all five games from my PP7B power supply. However, Dokert hasn't made any of these for over a year (he said he plans to make them again though).

Also, the +24V is to power the coin counter I believe. Therefore, any Nintendo game that utilizes the coin counter will use the +24V.

I think they made special versions for Popeye though.

 

[JamBurglar]

Excellent, thanks. That's the most definitive answer I've seen in any of the threads so far (and the one that makes the most sense).

Thanks for pointing out the 12V. I had noticed it last night when looking through the manuals but it didn't register this morning.

So that's removing the wires at pins 5 and 6?

Let us know if this works. I'd really like to get Popeye running in my converted Mario Bros cab.

 

[NERDtendo]

I think they made special versions for Popeye though.

The special version was if you plan to power your machine with a POPEYE power supply. The harnesses were tailored to the power supply, not the game. I have been able to run all of the five games in my DK cab.

 

[dkblue]

So that's removing the wires at pins 5 and 6?

Let us know if this works. I'd really like to get Popeye running in my converted Mario Bros cab.

I'll check back in later this evening when I get a chance to try it out and let everyone know how it goes.

 

[JamBurglar]

The special version was if you plan to power your machine with a POPEYE power supply. The harnesses were tailored to the power supply, not the game. I have been able to run all of the five games in my DK cab.

I see what you're saying. So, just to be clear, you're saying that with a Dokert/Flagg harness I can just plug Popeye into my conversion Mario Bros cabinet (with a PP7B) without having to to pull wires from the harness?

If so, that's sweet! I was thinking I'd have to swap the power supply and the fuse near the power switch to run Popeye in that cab.

 

[Tighe]

The special version was if you plan to power your machine with a POPEYE power supply. The harnesses were tailored to the power supply, not the game. I have been able to run all of the five games in my DK cab.

But it sure is fun playing Popeye sideways. How hard is it to rotate the monitor? I need to unrotate my DK Jr that is currently a PC.

 

[Arcadenut]

Has anyone solved the great "can you run a 2 board Popeye with a Donkey Kong power supply" debate?

I've seen a few threads on here but none seem to have a definite resolution. Some people say yes, some say no.

There's also conflicting information out there about what voltages are and aren't used. I'm pretty sure every place agrees that the -5V isn't used for Popeye. However, one big question is the +24V.

If you look here at http://www.arcade-museum.com/pinouts-game/9090.html , you'll see that there is no +24V on pin 20. However, if you click on the manual link ( http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Popeye.pdf ), it shows +24V on pin 20.

MikesArcade.com shows the +24V on pin 20 as well (http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Nintendo_Classic.html).

My plan is to use a DK3 harness, remove the -5V and +24V and see what happens. Everything else (video, sound, etc) seems to be the same or really similar.

Has anyone tried this? I saw someone say they smoked a Popeye hooking it up to a DK ps, but I don't think they took the time to remove the -5V or +24V.

Any suggestions? If all the voltages are there (and Donkey Kong shows there's +24V as well http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/dkong1.pdf) and it's wired correctly, is there any reason it wouldn't work?

Take a look at this:

http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=98&CBT=312

 

[JamBurglar]

But it sure is fun playing Popeye sideways. How hard is it to rotate the monitor? I need to unrotate my DK Jr that is currently a PC.

It's easy to rotate the monitor but you need the horizontal brackets to do it. There are clear instructions on how to rotate in the Mario Bros. converstion kit manual.

Oh yeah, pull the monitor out of the front, not the back.

 

[NERDtendo]

I see what you're saying. So, just to be clear, you're saying that with a Dokert/Flagg harness I can just plug Popeye into my conversion Mario Bros cabinet (with a PP7B) without having to to pull wires from the harness?

Yes.

But it sure is fun playing Popeye sideways. How hard is it to rotate the monitor? I need to unrotate my DK Jr that is currently a PC.

When I deconverted my PC10 Single Monitor kit back to a Donkey Kong I left the horizontal mounting brackets in place. For me to rotate the monitor, I just unscrew it from the vertical brackets, turn it clockwise 90 degrees, and screw it into the horizontal brackets. The monitor is a little heavy so I don't recommend doing it weekly, but it is on a metal frame with a metal piece protecting the neck so short of dropping the monitor...it's well protected.

 

[NERDtendo]

Oh yeah, pull the monitor out of the front, not the back.

Definitely +1 to this.

 

[Tighe]

When I deconverted my PC10 Single Monitor kit back to a Donkey Kong I left the horizontal mounting brackets in place. For me to rotate the monitor, I just unscrew it from the vertical brackets, turn it clockwise 90 degrees, and screw it into the horizontal brackets. The monitor is a little heavy so I don't recommend doing it weekly, but it is on a metal frame with a metal piece protecting the neck so short of dropping the monitor...it's well protected.

Hummm, I think that the vertical mounting brackets were removed from my DK Jr.

I will have to check tonight.

 

[NERDtendo]

Hummm, I think that the vertical mounting brackets were removed from my DK Jr.

I will have to check tonight.

Generally, ops will leave the front bar in and take the top bar out just because it is easier that way. The vertical mounting brackets are pretty easy to get on this site. They're usually about $20-$30 + shipping. You'll need the lower bar (it's small and mounts to the wood shelf that the monitor sits on, the top support bar, 2 "L" brackets w/mounting screws, and 4 carriage bolts.

 

[dkblue]

I'll check back in later this evening when I get a chance to try it out and let everyone know how it goes.

Per the directions from ELutz, I removed the 4 wires for 12V and -5V at 5/E and 6/F respectively. I hooked it up to my DK power supply, fired it up and it worked great.

Thanks and to ELutz and everyone else for you help.

 

[Tighe]

Generally, ops will leave the front bar in and take the top bar out just because it is easier that way. The vertical mounting brackets are pretty easy to get on this site. They're usually about $20-$30 + shipping. You'll need the lower bar (it's small and mounts to the wood shelf that the monitor sits on, the top support bar, 2 "L" brackets w/mounting screws, and 4 carriage bolts.

Yes, mine is missing the top bar. Dang. I will probably just make my own. I can't see paying that much for a piece of metal.