Pop-Bumper light socket?

Steelhorse

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I replaced the bulbs in the light sockets on the pop-bumpers and it seems the style of socket is more of flexible alluminum and not a snug fit for the bulb resulting in the bulb going on and off when ever the pinball hits the bumpers during game play. Now do you push down and twist in light? If so I have tried and no budge at all. Is there something I need to clamp tighter around base of bulb. Wrap some electrical tape around base for tighter fit? Let me know? Dont know what else info to tell you, but that it's a Williams system 11 High Speed pin. Lights put in are 4+1 Led's for pop-bumpers, removed #47 incadescent bulbs. Lights look GREAT, but fit is loose, Thanks.
 
You can usually pinch the socket a little bit with pliers to tighten things up. If the pin in the bottom is too loose you can bend that too but it will be tough with the socket installed in the machine.
 
You can usually pinch the socket a little bit with pliers to tighten things up. If the pin in the bottom is too loose you can bend that too but it will be tough with the socket installed in the machine.

Thanks Lindsey. I would like to know about what pin your referring to? If your talking where the bottom of the bulb makes contact then yes it seems like movement, well hell they were all like flexible in moving up and down. You do have to"twist" these bulbs in correct in pop-bumper sockets like regular bayonet style 44/47 sockets? Or just "push" them in? Thanks
 
You have to push them in and then twist them a quarter turn. The bulb contacts wedge under the metal tab inside the pop bumper.

Exactly. When I said "pin" I was talking about the contact in the bottom of the socket. That contact can also be bent to make better contact if needed... or you could just buy a new socket intended for a #555 lamp. That style of lamp tends to have less problems in pop bumpers.
 
You have to push them in and then twist them a quarter turn. The bulb contacts wedge under the metal tab inside the pop bumper.

tomdotcom do you mean the 2 bumps on the base of the bulb need to be wedged under the metal tabs to be secure from the vibration. The contact is on the bottom of bulb, I do know what your saying though. I have 1 bulb that was able to twist in no problem another wont twist it's making contact and so far dont going on and off from vibration, and the 3rd light broke when I was tryin to twist it in but it wouldn't not and I used a little more force and the head of the Led broke off, why would it be hard to twist in for? Should I use electric contact lube to grease it up some to twist? Thanks
 
a neat hack i mean trick ive donme a few times is add a larger blob of solder on the end of the bulb which makes it "reach" longer doen in the socket and get better contact
 
interesting, wont the "blob" solder break off. What made you try that idea?

The lamp already has a blob of solder there. You're just making it bigger.

Personally I would probably pull the sockets out of the machine and clean/adjust them for perfect operation but adding solder to the lamp is definitely a quicker option.
 
The lamp already has a blob of solder there. You're just making it bigger.

Personally I would probably pull the sockets out of the machine and clean/adjust them for perfect operation but adding solder to the lamp is definitely a quicker option.

Now heat the solder and let it "drop" on the base to increase "blob" let cool and install. Is this right? I dont think you heat the lamp base itself, let me know?
 
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