Pole Position power supply

waltervan

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I have a PP I just got up and working this weekend everything is playing good but after about an hour the F3 20amp fuse blew. I waited till the next day to replace the fuse and started the game everything fired up and game played fine for about 20-45 min then F3 fuse blew again.
Now after looking at the wiring diagram I see F3 should be 20amp 32v fuse the but the fuses that blew were 20Amp 250v is this a problem.
When I return with my meter and tools weredo I start on trouble shooting could the 250v fuse in the 32v slot be the problem?
Thanks
Walter
 
Very common issue. Either replace the fuse holder with a new one from Bob Roberts or install an inline fuse holder. In either case, solder the connections. Check this out:

 
When running new +5 and GND wires as shown in the video, do i remove the corresponding wires from the edge connector?
 
When running new +5 and GND wires as shown in the video, do i remove the corresponding wires from the edge connector?
I've had a few questions about this, and I should have talked about it in the video. There is no need to remove the existing wiring. The existing harness has two current paths (two wires) already, and you are simply adding a third. Just make sure you are hooking the jumper wires to the same board that the harness is going to. If you cross them, the regulation may not work properly.
 
+1 on changing the fuse holder.
Also if I remember correctly, there was a technical bulletin changing F3 to 25A
 
The voltage rating is fine, but as others have said, replace the fuse holder and use a 25A fuse.
Get them from a car audio place, they use high quality fuses and holders that can actually carry that amount of power !!!
 
I've had a few questions about this, and I should have talked about it in the video. There is no need to remove the existing wiring. The existing harness has two current paths (two wires) already, and you are simply adding a third. Just make sure you are hooking the jumper wires to the same board that the harness is going to. If you cross them, the regulation may not work properly.

Thanks for the video, and this response.

One more stupid question: where is the preferred position for the air intake hole? You mentioned 'other side' - did you mean the other side of the back door?
 
Lucky you are just blowing fuses, mine was rigged to run off just ONE of the AR II boards. Still trying to sort that out.
 
Thanks for the video, and this response.

One more stupid question: where is the preferred position for the air intake hole? You mentioned 'other side' - did you mean the other side of the back door?
Yeah, the other side of the back door, left side as you look at the back. I was able to get an original back door from a "late-model" PP. I'll try and remember to grab a photo for you.
 
Air exhaust is through the left side rear door, just above the PCB cage. See if someone can snap a picture of the cardboard air duct mounted on top of the cage. The fan is actually mounted to the side of the cabinet. That way the rear door just has the vent hole and can be removed without disconnecting the fan wires
 
Air exhaust is through the left side rear door, just above the PCB cage. See if someone can snap a picture of the cardboard air duct mounted on top of the cage. The fan is actually mounted to the side of the cabinet. That way the rear door just has the vent hole and can be removed without disconnecting the fan wires
Duct and fan are shown in my video above.
 
Here's what the factory doors look like.
 

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