Pole Position - PCB Repair

JLS2016

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I've got a Pole Position PCB in-route to me that will need repaired. I've sent a message to Dick but he didn't reply. I tried Brzezicki who replied very fast but unfortunately isn't able to do it until next year. Any other recommendations?

Thank you!
 
what do you need done on it? what's it doing?

I don't fully know yet. It was sold to me as a board that wasn't fully functioning properly so I figure someone who knows much about boards should give it the once over (or many times over knowing PP as I gather...lol) and fix any issues or soon to be potential issues.

I'm converting a cab I bought back from a World Rally. I've ordered all the different parts I can see or think of to get it back to its original state. Honestly I won't have the first clue how to test it myself to see what's wrong and I'm afraid I'll blow my other purchased parts that were sold as working while doing so...
 
If you're going to own a Pole Position, you may as well get used to the idea of learning how they work.

Do you have pictures of the boards in question? Could be something simple.
 
Hello
I sold the boards to JLS2016
the problems they have is the sounds are scratchy and it dose not have the voice (prepare to qualify)
It dose play very good. Hope this helps
 
Hello
I sold the boards to JLS2016
the problems they have is the sounds are scratchy and it dose not have the voice (prepare to qualify)
It dose play very good. Hope this helps

Check the sram at 7j and 7K. if they are 2114s then that will cause audio issues.
are the engine sounds normal?

if you dont have speech then its probably the custom 52xx at 9E. The pins always break off. its rare that the rom at 9C is bad.
 
I'm converting a cab I bought back from a World Rally. I've ordered all the different parts I can see or think of to get it back to its original state. Honestly I won't have the first clue how to test it myself to see what's wrong and I'm afraid I'll blow my other purchased parts that were sold as working while doing so...

I just want to comment on this part right here.

I hope you're handy with a soldering iron(not joking in the least). If you're not, you soon will be. ;) I'm going to recommend(based on Ian's post) that you get an IC Extractor if you don't have one. You're going to need it.

Be VERY careful when plugging the boards into the harness. When I removed the filter board in mine, I wasn't as careful as I should have been when hooking the individual boards up.... and this happened to the AR-II board:

el2pJda.jpg


If that happens, don't panic. Those parts are easy to come by, and take maybe 10 minutes to remove and replace.

If it hasn't been done already, do the "test point" mod, you'll save yourself a ton of headaches later on. It's also pretty easy to do.

Again, if it hasn't been done already: You can use one of several ways to fix the high score table. A 3-AA battery adapter, a 3.6v NiCad battery(for say, a cordless phone), or the chip replacement you can get from some places online. I found them difficult to locate, so I went with the NiCad.
 
Never even used one before!...lol.

My dad is an electronic engineer (or was 30 years ago) so I typically let him do things for me when it comes to soldering and wiring. But since I'm getting more and more into the hobby I'll start getting my hands dirty with this kinda thing to practice with him overseeing so I don't make too expensive of mistakes hopefully.

He knows plenty about repairing boards etc but he's never been involved in gaming boards. Plus he doesn't get too many opportunities to fix this kinda stuff over the last 30 years so his help/knowledge on this is very limited I'm sure.

I keep hearing about that post and seen the burnt ar boards so I plan on doing that. If Dick had been available to repair the board then I wouldn't because I think I read he's against it for some reason but everyone else seems on-board with it.

Thanks for the tips! I'm sure you'll all be hearing plenty from me...
I just want to comment on this part right here.

I hope you're handy with a soldering iron(not joking in the least). If you're not, you soon will be. ;) I'm going to recommend(based on Ian's post) that you get an IC Extractor if you don't have one. You're going to need it.

Be VERY careful when plugging the boards into the harness. When I removed the filter board in mine, I wasn't as careful as I should have been when hooking the individual boards up.... and this happened to the AR-II board:

el2pJda.jpg


If that happens, don't panic. Those parts are easy to come by, and take maybe 10 minutes to remove and replace.

If it hasn't been done already, do the "test point" mod, you'll save yourself a ton of headaches later on. It's also pretty easy to do.

Again, if it hasn't been done already: You can use one of several ways to fix the high score table. A 3-AA battery adapter, a 3.6v NiCad battery(for say, a cordless phone), or the chip replacement you can get from some places online. I found them difficult to locate, so I went with the NiCad.
 
Never even used one before!...lol.

My dad is an electronic engineer (or was 30 years ago) so I typically let him do things for me when it comes to soldering and wiring. But since I'm getting more and more into the hobby I'll start getting my hands dirty with this kinda thing to practice with him overseeing so I don't make too expensive of mistakes hopefully.

He knows plenty about repairing boards etc but he's never been involved in gaming boards. Plus he doesn't get too many opportunities to fix this kinda stuff over the last 30 years so his help/knowledge on this is very limited I'm sure.

I keep hearing about that post and seen the burnt ar boards so I plan on doing that. If Dick had been available to repair the board then I wouldn't because I think I read he's against it for some reason but everyone else seems on-board with it.

Thanks for the tips! I'm sure you'll all be hearing plenty from me...

It never hurts to have an experienced hand watching over you. You're actually lucky to have that.

Atari boards have that Sense thing going, which is what will burn up the edge connector. I've done the test point mod to Dig Dug and Pole Position. Once I get it running, I'll probably do it to my Lunar Lander/Asteroids combo. Not to be punny her, but it just makes sense.

Just be sure to have some way to disconnect the board from the harness, for cases of future work needing done. I literally removed the pins from the connector, soldered a new wire to the points, and wound the other end around the pin I removed from the connector. Wrap it with some electrical tape, and done.

I've got a good number of Atari games on my "want" list, and as I acquire them, they'll all get that mod done. Also, you don't need to remove the Sense wires. They'll be redundant, but it's extra work that you really don't HAVE to do.

I got my Pole Position back in May, and I knew very little about the game aside from how to play it. I learned a lot from having to repair it, from the generous folks here. Helping other Pole Position owners is my way of giving back, so don't be shy if you have questions.
 
Check the sram at 7j and 7K. if they are 2114s then that will cause audio issues.
are the engine sounds normal?

if you dont have speech then its probably the custom 52xx at 9E. The pins always break off. its rare that the rom at 9C is bad.

They are 2114's but thats what the schematics show?

I tried swapping the 9E and 9C chips but got nothing.

Engine sounds normal.

Game seems to play great as stated otherwise. Sorry for the delay... just got things setup enough to test. Advise on the next step?

Thanks!
 
Accuratemold fixed my pole position board solid!!!! I even sent him another pp today actually ..along with a dk and a mb to fix...great dude..good prices...i'd recommend him to anyone.
 
Accuratemold fixed my pole position board solid!!!! I even sent him another pp today actually ..along with a dk and a mb to fix...great dude..good prices...i'd recommend him to anyone.

Thanks... at this point im still hoping to fix these myself with help from my dad and the forum. Its a good learning experience. But if that doesnt work out...
 
I know its the CPU board causing the problem. I mix matched a few boards yesterday to narrow things down...

Does anyone know why some board sets are labeled A and some B?
 
If you are in facebook groups, Eugene Mosh in the Midwest and Mid-Atlantic collectors group repairs Pole Position
 
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