Pole Position II - Power brick

MikeyDee

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I'm working on a Pole Position II that I recently aquired. Is there any reason why someone would bypass the multi-fuse block and solder wires directly to the 25 amp fuse?

Other than the fuse holder being burned up? :eek:

I know there have been a lot of service bulletins and mods for these games.
 
Other than the fuse holder being burned up? :eek:

I know there have been a lot of service bulletins and mods for these games.

That wasn't a service bulletin, but it is a common failure point. Those fuse holders do burn up fairly regularly, even in other Atari games. Another common repair was to solder in an in-line fuse holder - the twist together ones as used in cars.

At least they soldered it to a fuse, and didn't just bypass it with a wire.

-Ian
 
I'm working on a Pole Position II that I recently aquired. Is there any reason why someone would bypass the multi-fuse block and solder wires directly to the 25 amp fuse?

Other than the fuse holder being burned up? :eek:

I know there have been a lot of service bulletins and mods for these games.

Just want you to know that I didn't do that... if it is the PPII you got from me. :)

I am ready to put a switcher in the other PP cab I have - dam cantankerous game!
 

Thanks for the link. That's very informative. I decided to leave the F3 (25 amp) fuse soldered in place. The wires were also soldered to the bridge rectifier as well.

Does this game really draw 25 amps? :eek: That's crazy.


@ Robomayhem
It looks like this was a mod designed to bypass the quick disconnects which are only rated for 7-10 amps

I'm debating bypassing the A/R II's. But, the extra power mods that are already wired in may be good enough.

I haven't even turn the game on yet. :mad: I want to clean things up and go over the game and wiring, especially with this finicky game.
 
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