Pole Position Help please

IJoeG

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Hello, I had a working Pole Position, well mostly working. sometimes it would power on great. Other times I'd get ram errors. If I turned the machine off and back on again the error would go away and the game played great. Sometimes I would have to power it on and of 2 or 3 times before it would turn on. After reading a bunch here I decided to remove clean and reseat all the chips. Problem is after I was done the game won"t come back on. At first it gave me ram 0 error then a ram 2. Now I just get a screen covered with lack and white squares. no ram errors. Ive attached a picture below.

Thank you for your help

I was careful to only remove one chip at a time and to make sure they were oriented correctly. I've also gone over and rechecked them all again.
 

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make sure that edge connector deal at the back of the boards is seated well.

Poles are well known for having voltage issues. Might be worth looking into.
 
Sometimes those sockets go bad. When you remove the chip the spring in the dip socket does not spring back, thus not making contact with the leg on your chip. You can remove your chips and apon a visual inspection you can look for a spring that is stuck....a few stuck springs will cause graphic issues. When i find sockets that are bad i replace them.....no idea how many socketed chips on a pole position board but might be worth a look. I seem to always have this issue on my 720 atari boards.

Good luck
Chad
 
Sometimes those sockets go bad. When you remove the chip the spring in the dip socket does not spring back, thus not making contact with the leg on your chip. You can remove your chips and apon a visual inspection you can look for a spring that is stuck....a few stuck springs will cause graphic issues. When i find sockets that are bad i replace them.....no idea how many socketed chips on a pole position board but might be worth a look. I seem to always have this issue on my 720 atari boards.

Good luck
Chad
Thanks, I was afraid of that. There's a ton of chips on the board, any thoughts on wether it's the cpu or the video board? That would go a long way in narrowing it down
 
Thanks, I was afraid of that. There's a ton of chips on the board, any thoughts on wether it's the cpu or the video board? That would go a long way in narrowing it down


What you really need is a working board set. That way you can test the mother and daughter board with your working set. This process would help narrow down the bad board...im out of town but may have a lead on a working set.

Chad
 
that "looks" like the CPU board to me.

What you really need is a working board set. That way you can test the mother and daughter board with your working set. This process would help narrow down the bad board...im out of town but may have a lead on a working set.

Chad


I'd definitely be interested in a working set.

Thanks to both of you, I really appreciate the help.

Joe
 
you should really do the ground and +5 volts mod to the pcb. its quick easy and makes a hell of a difference on the reliability. also does yours have a fan around the cage? if not keep the back door off. many pp get super hot and that can cause issues. Would not hurt to rebuild the arII ps as well. again a relatively cheap and easy way to insure or at a minimum rule out issues at startup.
thanks
blake

ps - I miss my pp.
 
FYI: re, the GND and +5 mod.

If you have a single switching power supply in the cab you can tie the +5's together from the back to the front board. If NOT, as in you still have the 2 ARII's, DO NOT CONNECT THE +5's TOGETHER!!! The GND's can be tied together.

Brings up the question, have you checked for proper voltages on the boards? Pole only requires +5 at the logic boards in order to run.
 
FYI: re, the GND and +5 mod.

If you have a single switching power supply in the cab you can tie the +5's together from the back to the front board. If NOT, as in you still have the 2 ARII's, DO NOT CONNECT THE +5's TOGETHER!!! The GND's can be tied together.

Brings up the question, have you checked for proper voltages on the boards? Pole only requires +5 at the logic boards in order to run.

I should have been more clear. pigtail the grounds and run a jumper from the +5 on the edge connector to the 5vdc test point on the board. Bypassing a bad/burnt trace at the edge connector.

Testing voltages is a must. and unlike on my gunfight they are easy to find and test.

thanks
blake
 
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