Pole Position cockpit restoration
- Thread starter Jaydon
- Start date
OP
OP
I'll have to check it out next time I'm in that area.
I've been to our local Shakey's a couple of times with the family. They like it for the video games more than the food.
I've raised them well.
OP
OP
I got everything disassembled and removed that nasty carpet. The original flooring, what was left of it, was still there.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/disassembled-mp4.24680
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/media/disassembled-mp4.24680
OP
OP
I absolutely hate this next part of a major restoration project, the removal of the artwork. It is not the amount of time and energy needed to remove it that is troublesome. It is the destruction of the art that really bothers me.
Heat gun, scrapper, some burnt fingers, and 2 days later, all the art was off.
There is so much evidence that the floor of this cabinet sustained extensive liquid exposure. Besides the rust on the pedals and pedal angle plate (I don't think that is original), there is swelling of side of the cabinet at the base. Specifically, this area on both sides of the cabinet.
I decided to start with the easier side of the cabinet. That is the side that did not have broken side section. Looking at these two sections,
side 2 had extensive expansion/flaring that you see when particle board gets wet. It went from the top of that section, where the chrome angle metal is, all the way down to the bottom. There was also quite a bit of give when you push on the wood.
Section 1 just had some expansion towards the top, but the bottom looked and felt very solid.
In order to try and save as much of the cabinet as possible, I decided to try the least invasive repair, good old wood hardener. This was done to section 1 only.
This little section actually used about 1/3 of that bottle of hardener.
When the clamps came off, that section looked better. But I wasn't sure if it was good enough. It was time to tip the cabinet.
Heat gun, scrapper, some burnt fingers, and 2 days later, all the art was off.
There is so much evidence that the floor of this cabinet sustained extensive liquid exposure. Besides the rust on the pedals and pedal angle plate (I don't think that is original), there is swelling of side of the cabinet at the base. Specifically, this area on both sides of the cabinet.
I decided to start with the easier side of the cabinet. That is the side that did not have broken side section. Looking at these two sections,
side 2 had extensive expansion/flaring that you see when particle board gets wet. It went from the top of that section, where the chrome angle metal is, all the way down to the bottom. There was also quite a bit of give when you push on the wood.
Section 1 just had some expansion towards the top, but the bottom looked and felt very solid.
In order to try and save as much of the cabinet as possible, I decided to try the least invasive repair, good old wood hardener. This was done to section 1 only.
This little section actually used about 1/3 of that bottle of hardener.
When the clamps came off, that section looked better. But I wasn't sure if it was good enough. It was time to tip the cabinet.
OP
OP
It is difficult to tell from the pictures, but maybe you can see the wood expansion.
Even after some light sanding, you can see the problem
While I pondered how to tackle that problem, I decided to do some easy repairs. This missing chunk can easily be filled with bondo or epoxy. I prefer epoxy. Though it is a little more difficult to use, I think epoxy is stronger and holds up better in the long term. Again, just my personal preference.
Here are the items I used.
1) clamps and wood
2) 30 minute epoxy
3) wood flour (optional)
4) tape
5) scale
6) plastic cut and spoon
Just cover a side of a piece of straight wood with packaging tape. Clamp this piece of wood to the edge of your cabinet. You just made a damn to keep the epoxy from leaking.
Mix up the epoxy by weight. I use grams You want a 1 to 1 resin to hardener ration. Then add a very small amount of wood flour. This is optional. I like to use it in order to thicken up the epoxy a little bit.
Then pour it in the hole with the spoon. I accidentally over filled here a little. It's ok. Just means I have a little more sanding to do later.
24 hours later, this will be the hardest section of the cabinet.
Even after some light sanding, you can see the problem
While I pondered how to tackle that problem, I decided to do some easy repairs. This missing chunk can easily be filled with bondo or epoxy. I prefer epoxy. Though it is a little more difficult to use, I think epoxy is stronger and holds up better in the long term. Again, just my personal preference.
Here are the items I used.
1) clamps and wood
2) 30 minute epoxy
3) wood flour (optional)
4) tape
5) scale
6) plastic cut and spoon
Just cover a side of a piece of straight wood with packaging tape. Clamp this piece of wood to the edge of your cabinet. You just made a damn to keep the epoxy from leaking.
Mix up the epoxy by weight. I use grams You want a 1 to 1 resin to hardener ration. Then add a very small amount of wood flour. This is optional. I like to use it in order to thicken up the epoxy a little bit.
Then pour it in the hole with the spoon. I accidentally over filled here a little. It's ok. Just means I have a little more sanding to do later.
24 hours later, this will be the hardest section of the cabinet.
This is definitely my least favorite part. Agreed on the artwork removal being the worst part but damn as I get older the process is just really tough on the body.
OP
OP
I know exactly how you feel. Since when do I need to take a day to recover from 2 days of scraping and peeling? I didn't sign up for that part.
OP
OP
While I had the epoxy stuff out, I decided to fix all the nicks and dings on the edges. In the exact same way I did above, I clamped a straight board to the edge of the cabinet and ran a slim bread of epoxy down the entire edge, When it is sanded, I will have a sharp crisp edge.
Here is what the area looks like when the clamps and board are removed.
I started masking the area around the patch with some tape in order to protect this area while sanding. I noticed that sometimes when I'm sanding epoxy, I angle the orbital sander a little and I sand parts of the cabinet that I really don't want to sand. This tape is a warning sign for me. When it starts to get sanded away, I know the epoxy is close to the correct depth.
This is how it turned out.
Here is what the area looks like when the clamps and board are removed.
I started masking the area around the patch with some tape in order to protect this area while sanding. I noticed that sometimes when I'm sanding epoxy, I angle the orbital sander a little and I sand parts of the cabinet that I really don't want to sand. This tape is a warning sign for me. When it starts to get sanded away, I know the epoxy is close to the correct depth.
This is how it turned out.
OP
OP
Next, I wanted to tackle this rear corner.
After asking around and looking at other cabinets, this corner is suppose to be round. I used my best guess, along with some trial and error, I was able to 3D print what looks like a very close mold of the corner.
I had to get creative in forming a bottom to this mold in order keep the epoxy from just pouring through.
Everything worked out perfectly. One advantage to using the 30 minute epoxy as opposed to the 5 minute epoxy, it doesn't generate as much heat. I have used these 3D molds with 5 minute epoxy before, and the heat generated from the exothermic reaction will actually melt and warp the PLA mold.
After some sanding.
After asking around and looking at other cabinets, this corner is suppose to be round. I used my best guess, along with some trial and error, I was able to 3D print what looks like a very close mold of the corner.
I had to get creative in forming a bottom to this mold in order keep the epoxy from just pouring through.
Everything worked out perfectly. One advantage to using the 30 minute epoxy as opposed to the 5 minute epoxy, it doesn't generate as much heat. I have used these 3D molds with 5 minute epoxy before, and the heat generated from the exothermic reaction will actually melt and warp the PLA mold.
After some sanding.
OP
OP
For this front corner, I could have used epoxy like I did on the other repairs. But I really don't like to use epoxy on something this large. I don't think there is any problem with doing it. But it's a personal choice not to.
So I decided to cut out the broken piece and biscuit in a new one. However, there was some excitement. It's probably 7pm. I want to get this finished so the glue can set up over night. I have everything all set up make to cut. I get my skill saw and start making the cut. Half way though the cut, there was an exposition of sparks like I just cut through a power line. Yup, do you see that screw right in the middle of cut line? It ruined a brand new blade and perfectly good pair of underwear.
That was fate telling me to call it a night. After I regrouped, I made some biscuit cuts on both pieces of wood and glued them in.
When I was doing my test fitting, everything aligned perfectly with no gaps. But something must have shifted during clamping and gluing because I ended with a very small, maybe a little less than 1/64" gap on one side. It's ok. A little wood filler and sanding took care of that. It is still plenty strong.
So I decided to cut out the broken piece and biscuit in a new one. However, there was some excitement. It's probably 7pm. I want to get this finished so the glue can set up over night. I have everything all set up make to cut. I get my skill saw and start making the cut. Half way though the cut, there was an exposition of sparks like I just cut through a power line. Yup, do you see that screw right in the middle of cut line? It ruined a brand new blade and perfectly good pair of underwear.
That was fate telling me to call it a night. After I regrouped, I made some biscuit cuts on both pieces of wood and glued them in.
When I was doing my test fitting, everything aligned perfectly with no gaps. But something must have shifted during clamping and gluing because I ended with a very small, maybe a little less than 1/64" gap on one side. It's ok. A little wood filler and sanding took care of that. It is still plenty strong.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2012
- Messages
- 25,938
- Reaction score
- 13,050
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2012
- Messages
- 25,938
- Reaction score
- 13,050
The floor Indy - it moves!
OP
OP
Next up was the swollen side base. If you look at the picture below, you can see an arc drawn from the top to the bottom. Everything to the left of that line was swollen. My plan was to cut along the straight diagonal line and remove 90% of the swollen material. Some might be wondering my not just it all out. I was trying to avoid cutting that arc on the top.
I started by clamping a board of the same height to the cabinet and using my router to make a copy of the existing cabinet. This is a part that I was struggling with. I know that that original cabinet was chipped, swollen, and deformed. Any copy I make of this will have those same defects. Unfortunately, I didn't really have any other choice. The other side of the cabinet was in even worse condition. And I'm pretty sure someone would not be whiling to tip their PP cockpit on their side, rip off their t-molding and let me make of copy of theirs.
So this is the best I could come up with.
After the copy was made, I transcribed the cut line from the cabinet onto the copy board and then cut along that line. This was the piece I was going use to replace the original swollen piece (sorry no picture of this).
I lined the new replacement piece on top of the cabinet and traced a new cut line. Making sure I cut on the correct side of the line, I made that cut. Thankfully, no screws this time.
I did take this opportunity to repaint the black under piece.
And here is the test fit.
Not too bad. Using the biscuit cutter, I cut groves for 2 biscuits.
I had to get a bit creative with the clamps. This was an odd angle and there was really nothing to clamp onto
There was still that high spot that is outlined by that dark blob. But after some sanding, wood filler, more sanding, and then some sanding, it turned out beautiful.
Edit: One thing I forgot to mention. I made sure to cut the T-molding slot in the new piece before I glued it to the cabinet. It would be impossible to fit the router bit in that little space after it was installed.
I started by clamping a board of the same height to the cabinet and using my router to make a copy of the existing cabinet. This is a part that I was struggling with. I know that that original cabinet was chipped, swollen, and deformed. Any copy I make of this will have those same defects. Unfortunately, I didn't really have any other choice. The other side of the cabinet was in even worse condition. And I'm pretty sure someone would not be whiling to tip their PP cockpit on their side, rip off their t-molding and let me make of copy of theirs.
So this is the best I could come up with.After the copy was made, I transcribed the cut line from the cabinet onto the copy board and then cut along that line. This was the piece I was going use to replace the original swollen piece (sorry no picture of this).
I lined the new replacement piece on top of the cabinet and traced a new cut line. Making sure I cut on the correct side of the line, I made that cut. Thankfully, no screws this time.
I did take this opportunity to repaint the black under piece.
And here is the test fit.
Not too bad. Using the biscuit cutter, I cut groves for 2 biscuits.
I had to get a bit creative with the clamps. This was an odd angle and there was really nothing to clamp onto
There was still that high spot that is outlined by that dark blob. But after some sanding, wood filler, more sanding, and then some sanding, it turned out beautiful.
Edit: One thing I forgot to mention. I made sure to cut the T-molding slot in the new piece before I glued it to the cabinet. It would be impossible to fit the router bit in that little space after it was installed.
Last edited:
OP
OP
I feel like Fievel and his entire family were using this cabinet as home. Just wait, there is more mouse poop to come.
OP
OP
I had a few little chips and nicks that probably would have been easier to just use bondo. But when you have a 3D printer, why not overcomplicate things and make a mold of it. Besides, you know I prefer epoxy.
Here is how it looked at this point.
Time for laminate. It was cheaper to use one 5x10 sheet of laminate than to purchase 4 smaller pieces. I cut the sheet in half so I could use a half for each side of the cabinet.
If you are going to copy what I did, make sure you start on one side of the cabinet and work to the other side. For example, I started on the left side of the picture and moved to the right, working the top, then the bottom, then the top again. I pulled out the middle dowel on the left, rolled. Then down one dowel, rolled. Then back to the middle and up one dowel, rolled. Then back down to the next dowel, rolled. Then back up to the next top, etc.
Do NOT work in a circular fashion around the cabinet. Ask me how I know. You will see when I get to other side of the cabinet.
Here she is
Up next, the hard side.
Here is how it looked at this point.
Time for laminate. It was cheaper to use one 5x10 sheet of laminate than to purchase 4 smaller pieces. I cut the sheet in half so I could use a half for each side of the cabinet.
If you are going to copy what I did, make sure you start on one side of the cabinet and work to the other side. For example, I started on the left side of the picture and moved to the right, working the top, then the bottom, then the top again. I pulled out the middle dowel on the left, rolled. Then down one dowel, rolled. Then back to the middle and up one dowel, rolled. Then back down to the next dowel, rolled. Then back up to the next top, etc.
Do NOT work in a circular fashion around the cabinet. Ask me how I know. You will see when I get to other side of the cabinet.
Here she is
Up next, the hard side.
Nice work. I wish more people used epoxy.. It's a better material for this work than Bondo.
OP
OP
Before we get to the other side, here is a little pedal assembly intermission.
I guess at some point in the lifetime of this cabinet, the throttle cable spring came undone. Instead of reattaching it in the prober position on the pedal assembly, someone just screwed this spring to the bottom of the cabinet. I wonder how this effected the acceleration and maximum speed of the game.
Here is the pedal assembly out of the cabinet.
I was surprised those grip pads had as much adhesion as they did. They were a little bit of a pain to get off. But with some heat and a scraper....
Full disassembly
There is quite a bend in the upper right of this plate.
After some sanding with some 220 grit paper on the orbital sander and some hammering on that corner.
This part was sent out for powder coating.
I guess at some point in the lifetime of this cabinet, the throttle cable spring came undone. Instead of reattaching it in the prober position on the pedal assembly, someone just screwed this spring to the bottom of the cabinet. I wonder how this effected the acceleration and maximum speed of the game.
Here is the pedal assembly out of the cabinet.
I was surprised those grip pads had as much adhesion as they did. They were a little bit of a pain to get off. But with some heat and a scraper....
Full disassembly
There is quite a bend in the upper right of this plate.
After some sanding with some 220 grit paper on the orbital sander and some hammering on that corner.
This part was sent out for powder coating.
Shakey's menu!!!! Awesome!!!!
Had a bday party there in 1979!!
Had a bday party there in 1979!!
How much does powder coating cost in your neck of the woods?
It's prohibitively expensive here in Kelowna.
OP
OP
I decided to try the distilled vinegar approach to removing the rust from the springs. @andrewb recommended this approach and he has never steered me wrong. Wow. I am so pleased with the results. Just let them soak over night and scrub with a brush (I think I used a copper wire brush), rinse and dry thoroughly.
Here is comparison of one spring after the cleaning and one that hasn't been cleaned yet.
Here is all the springs after their bath.
For the pedals, I started with 220 grit sand paper on the orbital sander for the top and sides. On the inside, I had to sand by hand. After the 220, I switched to 400, then 800, 13000, and 3,000 grid. After that, I took some car chrome polish and gave it a little wipe down. It has close to a mirror finish.
These parts were just thoroughly cleaned and painted with black satin paint.
I did order a new cable and new grip pads from arcadefixit.com. I was not sure if the cable was going to be needed, but with the cost of shipping, it was better to have it just in case.
With all the parts ready, it was time to assemble.
Here is how it came out. I am NOT pleased with the powder coating. There are parts that had too much coating on it and the back has pock marks on it. I really need to find a good powder coater around me.
Overall, it is huge improvement.
Here is comparison of one spring after the cleaning and one that hasn't been cleaned yet.
Here is all the springs after their bath.
For the pedals, I started with 220 grit sand paper on the orbital sander for the top and sides. On the inside, I had to sand by hand. After the 220, I switched to 400, then 800, 13000, and 3,000 grid. After that, I took some car chrome polish and gave it a little wipe down. It has close to a mirror finish.
These parts were just thoroughly cleaned and painted with black satin paint.
I did order a new cable and new grip pads from arcadefixit.com. I was not sure if the cable was going to be needed, but with the cost of shipping, it was better to have it just in case.
With all the parts ready, it was time to assemble.
Here is how it came out. I am NOT pleased with the powder coating. There are parts that had too much coating on it and the back has pock marks on it. I really need to find a good powder coater around me.
Overall, it is huge improvement.
