Pole position cockpit- non working

Good deal. I would still probably clean that up a bit with a new fuse block so you don't have one fuse hanging there loose.
 
Horizontal width coil.. am I inserting a flat head or..how do you adjust? I got the height adjusted. I reseated and cleaned all the fuses and the reboot appears to be gone.
 
Well that might have to wait until the chassis comes out, I'm guessing it's not supposed to flop around.I chicken sticked it first so I could get a feel for it.
 
Use actual monitor adjustment tools. Anything metallic will get hot and/or give a improper value.
^This.

I have two sets. If it's stuck (won't move), power the game down, and try to free it with a standard flat blade with gentle turns in each direction.

If it won't free up, you may have to replace it. Try to look inside to see if someone locked it with glue or wax. You'd have to clear that or it won't move.
 
^This.

I have two sets. If it's stuck (won't move), power the game down, and try to free it with a standard flat blade with gentle turns in each direction.

If it won't free up, you may have to replace it. Try to look inside to see if someone locked it with glue or wax. You'd have to clear that or it won't move.
I noticed it was at an angle, another reason I wanted to get a feel for it first. It's flopping around on there, perhaps only held on by wires. Chassis will come out eventually, reset issue appears gone and it's in the AC now.
Thanks to all for the help with this. 🍻
 

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Read the manual.

And learn how Atari power systems work, and how to clean and make them trouble-free.

Spend time READING and RESEARCHING here, not buying and replacing parts because someone told you to. Most stuff does not need to be replaced.

The biggest thing that machine needs is a good *cleaning* of all electrical contacts, everywhere in the cabinet (all connectors, fuse holder, socketed chip legs, etc.) Any place where two pieces of metal touch and conduct electricity should be separated, cleaned via the appropriate means, and treated with DeOxit. There are many threads here that explain cleaning everything from edge connectors to socketed chips.

Doing that first will solve a lot of problems, prevent even more, and save you from buying a lot of crap you don't need. There's no point in trying to track down any problem until you have given all electrical surfaces a deep cleaning.

(You can even go so far as to remove the whole harness, all of the boards, and the power brick and physically wash them, in addition to all of the above. I do this to all of my pickups.)

And get yourself a bottle of Krud Kutter. It's the best cleaner for removing nicotine, and washing boards and harnesses. It works even better than Greased Lightning (which is good, but this is even better).
 
@andrewb has converted to Krud Kutter!!!

This is the way.


I have. Full credit to @lilypad19 for converting me.

I don't know how the hell it works. But the stuff is amazing.

It's supposedly bio-friendly too, which is even weirder. It doesn't feel harsh AT ALL when you use it. But it melts nicotine grime off these boards better than anything. And I've tried everything over the years, on a lot of boards. Greased Lightning was the king, but this stuff is even better.
 
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I kinda like simple green but for $8 I'll give this kutter you speak of a shot.
DeOxit sounds interesting as well.
 
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