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What beerNpretzels said.
The 10.3 is the input voltage to the AR. 5V is the output. If you have no 10.3, the problem isn't the AR (though the AR could have other issues on its own).
Burned resistors on the AR are due to dirty edge connector fingers on the game board(s). Clean the fingers with a fiberglass pen and then apply DeOxit. DO NOT go out and replace the entire harness edge connector, it is not necessary. The problem is oxide on the fingers of the game board, and a cleaning is all that is needed. Buy these now, and clean the fingers on every game you own. It will save you lots of headaches and future problems:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401568675610
It normally isn't necessary to recap AR's. The original caps are fine. All you need to do on most of them is replace the 2N3055, as that's the part that does the heavy lifting, and they should all be replaced with a quality replacement part from a trusted source. If the R29 and/or R30 resistors are burned, just replace them. They are both 10 ohm, 1/4 watt. DO NOT use 1/2 watt. Shotgun kits for AR's are not necessary. People waste too time and money replacing parts that do not go bad, and are not the problem.
The most common cause of low 10.3 is an oxidized/burned tab on the fuse block (or dirty fuses). DO NOT go out and buy a new fuse block. Inspect and clean the one you have first, as that's usually all that's needed, and the original block is nicer than the cheap Chinese replacements.
See posts #17 and 18 in this thread for an example of the issue:
Star Wars Cockpit Power Issues
Forgive me if this is common knowledge but my Googling hasn't produced any useful guides. My Star Wars recently had a monitor rebuild (I also decided to replace the big blue cap on the PS while I was in there), and it ran great for about two weeks and suddenly died. Inspecting the hardware...forums.arcade-museum.com
If the fuse block is clean, pull the brick and look for burned wires underneath the brick, especially around the rectifier. These sometimes oxidize as well, and cause bad connections.
Link to the fiberglass pen is broken. Just fyi
Can you explain why a 10 ohm 1/2 watt resistor CAN NOTWhat beerNpretzels said.
The 10.3 is the input voltage to the AR. 5V is the output. If you have no 10.3, the problem isn't the AR (though the AR could have other issues on its own).
Burned resistors on the AR are due to dirty edge connector fingers on the game board(s). Clean the fingers with a fiberglass pen and then apply DeOxit. DO NOT go out and replace the entire harness edge connector, it is not necessary. The problem is oxide on the fingers of the game board, and a cleaning is all that is needed. Buy these now, and clean the fingers on every game you own. It will save you lots of headaches and future problems:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195190435832
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401568675610
It normally isn't necessary to recap AR's. The original caps are fine. All you need to do on most of them is replace the 2N3055, as that's the part that does the heavy lifting, and they should all be replaced with a quality replacement part from a trusted source. If the R29 and/or R30 resistors are burned, just replace them. They are both 10 ohm, 1/4 watt. DO NOT use 1/2 watt. Shotgun kits for AR's are not necessary. People waste too time and money replacing parts that do not go bad, and are not the problem.
The most common cause of low 10.3 is an oxidized/burned tab on the fuse block (or dirty fuses). DO NOT go out and buy a new fuse block. Inspect and clean the one you have first, as that's usually all that's needed, and the original block is nicer than the cheap Chinese replacements.
See posts #17 and 18 in this thread for an example of the issue:
Star Wars Cockpit Power Issues
Forgive me if this is common knowledge but my Googling hasn't produced any useful guides. My Star Wars recently had a monitor rebuild (I also decided to replace the big blue cap on the PS while I was in there), and it ran great for about two weeks and suddenly died. Inspecting the hardware...forums.arcade-museum.com
If the fuse block is clean, pull the brick and look for burned wires underneath the brick, especially around the rectifier. These sometimes oxidize as well, and cause bad connections.
Can you explain why a 10 ohm 1/2 watt resistor CAN NOT
be used in place of a 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.