Pole Position 2 resets, what did I get my self into..

StreetzKing

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Pole Position 2 resets, what did I get my self into..

I got a free pole position with a 2 pcb, it has 2 spare PP boards but both have damage, The battery is now 3 AAA's instead of a lithium, there were 2 red and 2 black wires coming off the filter board which I hooked up to the +5 and ground tabs that seemed to have been used in the past.

Game comes up, makes a crash and brake sound (i think) and is all garbage on the screen, then I get the test grid, then the game shows the 4 tracks, then it gets a little scrambled and then resets..

Where do I start and I can take any pics if needed.. im way new to this, it literally just walked in the door and I plugged it in lol
 
Get rid of the filter board and plug the connectors directly to the game boards. Make sure the board edge is clean. Also, you will likely need to re-pin the edge connector (or at least the power and ground pins).

Mitch
 
same thing, also now if it resets it just gives me garbage and says ram with a number on top of the screen, number changes from like 25 to 28 to 30, doesnt reset to the track select anymore
 
I can't help you fix it yourself, but since you have so little invested, you can save agrivation and pay a small amount to have Dick Millikan (on this site) fix your's like he did mine - highly recommended.
 
what do I have him fix! lol the pcb? I plan on rebuilding the AR boards just because, the big blue was changed, like I said someone tried to do some mods, it was tested working on dec 2001!!
 
Power Supply?

Have you checked your power supply voltages and for AC ripple on the DC legs?

That is generally your first stop - RAM errors will flag if the voltage isn't right.

Your next stop will be to pull any socketed chips (carefully) and clean their legs off. I'm not sure there are any, but if there are, that can help.

We'll see what you get from there.

One last question - did you clean both sides of the connector and board?
 
I had every symptom you are describing with my pp.

If you do a little searching you can see how frizz did a lot of wiring of the test points on the boards and ran them to a switcher.

I did this and my game was BULLETPROOF for the 2 years I had it until I sold it.

it's worth a shot
 
Welcome to Pole Position ownership :) I made a video a while back on the power mods, and mine has been running perfect ever since. I have the video on my site here: http://www.atomicbuffaloarcade.com/videos

One of the questions I should have addressed in the video is what to do with the old power connections through the edge connector. The answer is, nothing. It's fine to leave them in place.
 
Welcome to Pole Position ownership :) I made a video a while back on the power mods, and mine has been running perfect ever since. I have the video on my site here: http://www.atomicbuffaloarcade.com/videos

One of the questions I should have addressed in the video is what to do with the old power connections through the edge connector. The answer is, nothing. It's fine to leave them in place.
Awesome job on the PP power/cooling video! I wish I found this when I was looking into cooling options!
I wound up going with a couple 12v fans running off a switcher (just to keep it separate - and to prep for a power conversion if I ever decided).
Quick question - what are you running your fan off of - are they 110v?
Thanks!
-Chuck
 
Power Mod is a MUST!! Send the boards to Dick and let him repair them, he does great work. If you don't try and bulletproof a PP you will forever fight these types of issues.
 
Awesome job on the PP power/cooling video! I wish I found this when I was looking into cooling options!
I wound up going with a couple 12v fans running off a switcher (just to keep it separate - and to prep for a power conversion if I ever decided).
Quick question - what are you running your fan off of - are they 110v?
Thanks!
-Chuck
Thanks! The fan is 110v, same as original. There is a second connector in the power brick right next to the marquee connection. On early games this is a blank cutout, but on later games, it is identical to the marquee plug connection. I borrowed the pigtail from another power supply and copied the late-style setup.
 
Another big problem is board corrosion from battery leakage...

It will eat the resistors and traces that connect to the /OE and /CE control lines for the SRAM next to the battery. When that happens the chip will output spurious data on the data bus and crash the CPU.
 
the battery is removed and theres a remote holder

I have the jumpered +5 and the Gnds already done as the first step in that video posted

and I have the cardboard tunnel on my fan
 
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