That's amazing and unheard of, from all I've read.
And if you've read the other things you haven't read, you will find out that Pole Position doesn't have to be problematic as long as you invest in a little maintainence here and there. After all, you do change oil in your car sometimes, right? And you do proclaim your a purist at heart...
Cleaning the fingers on the edge of the board and repairing those as needed along with changing a few damaged pins in the edge connector if needed is the first step. Cleaning them with a fiberglass pen and dressing the connectors with deoxit about every 2 years will usually be sufficient.
Of course this assumes a working board set. Most dysfunctional boardsets can be fixed, pending any severe battery damage.
The original linear power supply (power brick + AR2s + big blues that seldom go bad) will outlast any cheaply designed and built Switcher you can buy these days... plus you won't need to source another "solution" for an audio amp. And none of this even addresses the condition of the monitor... is an LCD more reliable? It certainly won't last as long as a properly reconditioned arcade monitor.
It's not that difficult to repair a harness, even with moderate damage. in short, with a little investment of time, and a few dollars, you can put your pole position back in genuine and proper order.
I'm in pursuit of that very thing with a gutted CockPole cab... all OG, and down to needing a replacement harness due to the fact that it had been entirely removed prior to my becoming it's newest custodian.
Will they always be 100%? Of course not, after all, the car can still get a flat tire on the way home from getting the oil changed. But you still wouldn't replace the engine in your Corvette with one from a Toyota because you read that Toyotas are reliable.
YMMV of course, and you do what you feel is right for YOU and your needs. I'm not saying your right or wrong, I'm just stating that with a little work it's not impossible to see good results in any of our games.
Just my 2₵
Dylan