Pole Position 2 boots to garbage

David Jenkins

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Introduction: Hi, I'm somewhat newer to arcade restorations and ended up with a Pole Position 1 as my third cabinet lol. It came with the boards for Pole Position one and two with both having battery acid damage, PP1 having much worse damage, and would boot to garbage when powered. The AR boards output 13v so I fixed both the AR boards, before I powered the boards, replaced the big blue capacitors, removed the battery, fix the acid damage, and replaced the damaged components on the PP1 boards and it booted and worked from there with no issues.

Problem: The PP2 cpu board had been damaged from the high score battery so I removed it and replaced the damaged components and sockets for the chips nearby but it still boots to garbage. I checked the voltages at the test points and it was fine reading 5.01v and I have spare working 7C and 7E chips that I thought could be the problem, as the PP1 board I had needed new ones, I swapped it but still no dice. And now I'm not sure what to do from here. Any advice helps!
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I do not, but I can get one anything I should look out for when buying one?
 
Do you have a logic probe? You need to see first if the z80 is getting a reset signal on pin 26.
Ok I order a logic probe and it should be here in a few days. In the meantime, I took out the 3 Z80s from the PP2 boards and tested them on my working PP1 and they all work fine. So I know the Z80s are good and I check for continuity on the sockets. I'm just waiting to test for a reset signal on them
 
Ok I order a logic probe and it should be here in a few days. In the meantime, I took out the 3 Z80s from the PP2 boards and tested them on my working PP1 and they all work fine. So I know the Z80s are good and I check for continuity on the sockets. I'm just waiting to test for a reset signal on them

There's only 1 Z80... the others are Z8002s -- don't mix them up.
 
Do you have a logic probe? You need to see first if the z80 is getting a reset signal on pin 26.
OK, I've checked and reset pin seems to be stuck on high with no visible pulse on startup. I'm not sure if that's normal or not but I'd imagine not
 
If the AR's were outputting 13V, someone probably powered the machine like that before you got it. And in that case there's going to be game board damage.

So you likely have multiple bad chips on the game board, which makes troubleshooting even more difficult.

The best tool in this case would be another working boardset, so you can test all of the socketed chips (for starters). But there may be other bad soldered chips beyond that.

Some overvoltaged boards aren't that bad. And others are. It varies.
 
With a little more testing, I found that WDR pulses a single time when the board is powered and so does pin 1 of A6 however I'm not getting any pulsing from pin 15 of A6 so I suspect that the problem may be A6
 
If the AR's were outputting 13V, someone probably powered the machine like that before you got it. And in that case there's going to be game board damage.

So you likely have multiple bad chips on the game board, which makes troubleshooting even more difficult.

The best tool in this case would be another working boardset, so you can test all of the socketed chips (for starters). But there may be other bad soldered chips beyond that.

Some overvoltaged boards aren't that bad. And others are. It varies.
From what I can tell the owner never swap the boards, because he didn't know how, so the only one that could've been overpowered would have been PP1 boards which I got working so I don't think over volting is the issue, but it's always a possibility
 
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