Pod racer

studiopaul

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Have a pod racer,
Game plays and have checked vga output..works fine.
monitor is dead!
Where to begin?
No glow, checked fuse in monitor.
Anyone have schematics for this?

Hitachi A78lcu30x

Thanks
 
Thta looks like a tube number. We'd need to know the chassis type in order to help, and even then there is little documentation on these. If you can't ID the chassis type please take a picture and post it here.

Many of the known monitor types are pictured here. Please make sure your picture is good enough that the chassis can be seen...
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
 
Photos

Hope this helps
 

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That looks to be a 33" version of the U3000 series monitors. I'd start with the documentation here, use the 27" U3000 guides for your reference:

http://www.wellsgardner.com/service/

Since it seems completely dead start with the power supply board checking for damaged components. Also, be sure to check the power connector itself. I have seen these burn up on other WG monitors of similar age.
 
Monitor wg

Thank you



so far looks like board 756 seems high on output to connector p150

have voltages=187vdc should be 122vdc
have 23.5vdc should be 22vdc
 
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The 187vdc is a problem, I wouldn't worry too much about the 23.5vdc, it is most likely in the range expected.

It looks like your monitor is experiencing what is known as 'high voltage shutdown'. Due to the high voltage being so far out of spec the monitor shuts its self off for safety reasons. I would suspect Q101 and U101 as likely suspects, though any component being out of spec could cause the situation.
 
ebay has killer deals from time to time on components. You usually get a box of 10 for what it would cost ya for one or two somewhere else.(not always) .. when that happens its nice because if you keep blowing something you have spares to continue figuring it out.

you just have to watch out for no nam stuff, and make sure it ships from the us .. alot of chinese places on ebay, it takes forever to get your part.
 
The cap certainly could have failed, can you test it? You can't do a very accurate test but you can tell if it is open or shorted by checking it for continuity. A short will look like zero or near zero resistance. An open will show infinity. With a cap of this size it may take a short time before the meter reading starts to change from infinity to something lower, I hold my leads on it for a few seconds before declaring it is open. Also, for best results you should remove the cap from the circuit prior to testing.
 
Cap

400v 470uf , removed from circuit..shorted legs out with multimeter lead and then tried to charge.. oc then stabilized at 3.11Mohms (looks open to me) on my fluke 77 meter

I think this happened due to replacing..SEC SSPGN60A,,,,,with an St component P6N60FI,, the backplate on the original is metal ..
(Ground and heatsink?) the replacement is sealed. (No Metal backplate)

Think that could have caused it.
 
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