Pod Racer U3000 problems

FlashbaxArcade

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hi all, i think i have a u3000 in a SW Pod Racer that i just aquired, that has been gone thru before it looks like. not really sure how cables/connections are suppose to go. no HV, so i looked for that big cap on PS board and it was there. i took out main chassis and the flyback was barely hanging by a thread(all solder joints were broken under flyback), so i reflowed/repaired them and also reflowed all other connection header pins. still nothing!

i suspect the flyback is back cause there are a few hairline cracks in it! also, the pix that i have seen for this monitor, they have a large wirewound resistor on the right side on the frame and mine does not have that...just the power transistor under PS pcb. the yoke winding connectors only have a red/blue header pins on main chassis, where does the other green/yellow 2 pin yoke connector go?

if someone could show me good pix of where the connectors go, that would be awesome!!!

thanks
Kelly
 
it could potentially be the flyback and the HOT. some monitors one will take out the other if one fails... I don't know much about the U3000, all I know is it's a crazy and elaborate arrangement like the K8000 was.

I would say replace both, but you can test the HOT to see if it's shorted first. or you could just replace both anyway just to be sure...
 
I have the same game with the same monitor and the same problem, although mine sounds like it is in better condition. Anyhow, I had the clicking noise, tested the HOT and it is shorted. Just placed an order with Bob Roberts for the HOT and a cap kit.

Here's a site that found the same problem and fixed it without having to replace the flyback, not saying that your flyback is good, just that this is probably not one of those chassis that require both to be changed when one is bad (like the Polo).

http://www.arcademonitor.com/blog/repair.php?monitor=6
 
I have the same game with the same monitor and the same problem, although mine sounds like it is in better condition. Anyhow, I had the clicking noise, tested the HOT and it is shorted. Just placed an order with Bob Roberts for the HOT and a cap kit.

Here's a site that found the same problem and fixed it without having to replace the flyback, not saying that your flyback is good, just that this is probably not one of those chassis that require both to be changed when one is bad (like the Polo).

http://www.arcademonitor.com/blog/repair.php?monitor=6

ok thanks for the input and link! i will order check and order kit!!!

thanks to all
Kelly
 
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