Please ID and concerns

jay

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Pulled the board for the Hard Drivin monitor. I need some help id'ing it. Also, you can see in the pics. Someone grounded to the neckboard. Huh? Also, I noticed the jumper underneath. Is that normal? Last thing, When I ever so gently pulled the neckboard part of the plastic inside broke off. Please tell me thats not a big deal. It is very brittle and breaks apart just touching it. I've got a feeling this board is poo poo.

Thanks
 

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Wells Gardner K7000.
Ground on the neckboard - normal.
Jumper on bottom side - normal.
Broken/brittle plastic bits on tube - normal.

One of the easiest chassis to repair and get parts for fairly inexpensively.

What are the symptoms ?
 
Here's my post about the issues. http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=126634

For the past 2 days I have been unable to get the monitor to come on. None of my tricks work anymore.

Tonight, I pulled all the boards, re-seated roms and vacuumed the cab out. Plays blind as usual, that prompted me to pull the board an get it cleaned up for repair.

I will be ordering the repair kit from Bob Roberts.

What do I do about the beige plastic piece? Or can I just put the neckboard back on and call it good? The "key" for the position of the neckboard is still intact

Thanks for the reply
 
hard to tell from your pics, but it looks like that one big cap in the upper center of your first pic may be bulging on top...
 
hard to tell from your pics, but it looks like that one big cap in the upper center of your first pic may be bulging on top...

Just went and looked at it, you are correct. Besides a bad cap, is bulging caused by something else going wrong?
 
Well there's several high wattage resistors right next to it, that certainly could reduce its lifespan, but i'd also check those resistors for bad solder points underneath - looks like the board's a little baked in that area (brownish).

I think just age and all the various caps eventually cause things to fail, just do the repair kit, look it over for cold solder points and enjoy!
 
Keep in mind the BIG (filter) cap in question does NOT come in a cap kit.
Order it separately.

Check for a shorted H.O.T. while you're in there.
 
I was doing some reading after my last post and found that "black looking" glue is also an indicator of failed capacitors. I can see 2 caps in my pics with a black ooze right next to them. Guess the problem is quite obvious.
 
Not necessarily, sometimes yes, but I think in your case that was glue they used to hold down the caps before they were originally soldered to the board.
 
Yes, that is most likely just cooked glue. (Wells Gardners are notorious for it)
Specifically found on larger caps to keep them stable during shipping and such.
Very rarely do you see a cap blow out the bottom....see the little criss cross hatch marks on the tops of the caps.... that's where they are designed to "blow" from.
Don't get me wrong, I have seen them blow out the bottoms, but not many.
And on an average K7000, they're usually just old and dried out.

Re-cap it, scrutinize it for bad/cracked/ugly solder joints, check the HOT......

Does the fuse check good ?
(looks good in the pic)
 
That's a good thing then....

Check these areas, better yet, just remove the solder THEN check these joints and traces closely and any others that even remotely look similar.
Including on the neckboard (namely R213 and the larger transistors) and ALL large header pins (like where the video input cable plugs in) and resistors on the main chassis.
 

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I just fixed a K7000 - would not turn on, had B+ at the big resistor. Turned out to be a lifted trace inside the triangular area on your above pic. In there you see the 2 large dots towards the right of the shape, it was the bottom dot which is the leg for the large resistor near the fuse (not the one on the heat sink).
 
Will do. This will give me something to do while I wait for parts. Should have a cap kit in the next few days for my 4900. So I guess I'll have some practice in before the 7000.
 
The Horizontal Width coil looks like the adjustment core is all the way at the top too... maybe bad or not working........... Probubly another issue with chassis that will not adjust out all the way.

-Mike
 
The Horizontal Width coil looks like the adjustment core is all the way at the top too... maybe bad or not working........... Probubly another issue with chassis that will not adjust out all the way.

-Mike

Guess I better edit my order with Bob Roberts...

I'm starting to think it's better just to order every damn thing that exists on the board and hope for the best :)
 
You don't necessarily "need" a horizontal width coil..... just that someone had it adjusted all the way up. Could just be that caps were bad enough things wouldn't adjust properly.
If you can adjust the core, with the proper plastic tool of course, then I wouldn't worry about it just yet.
 
No love

So here we go......Cap kit...done, Flyback...done, HOT...done.....still no pic and no neck glow. Just finished a 3 hour job (for me) and no results.....Damn it!!!

AC is good going to monitor.
 
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