PLEASE HELP: Punch-Out dual screen, top screen has only small line in middle

davez

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PLEASE HELP: Punch-Out dual screen, top screen has only small line in middle

hello, i just bought a Punch-out from a guy that has owned it for probally 15-20 years. i only paid $300 for it so it was a STEAL! But anywho here is some info about it, since the day he got it, he put it into freeplay mode, when i bought this yesterday and bought it home i noticed the TOP screen only has a very thin line going thought the middle of the screen, the bottom screen works 100%... what iv tryed doing was checking all wires and everything seems to be fine. i checked the fuses on the top screen and they both look good. i have tryed tweeking the video switches on the screen but the line doesnt move. also i do not see any burn in on both of the screens.

So what do you guys think i can do to fix this?

Also i took it out of freeplay mode due to i want to play with quarters.

I looked around and i see a few things that could maby fix this,
1) new cap kit
2) switch on pcb
3) try switching the cords from top to bottom screen (i havnt done this yet)

I just figurd I would post this to see if anyone would know how to fix this.
Also it seems like the light for the top marquee is not working, how do i remove the lightbulb in it?

-thanks
dave
 
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You have vertical collapse. Check the test switch in the center of the chassis first, then check for cold solder joints on TR402 & TR403.
 
punchout

wow thank you for the SUPER FAST responce,

now im a newb at fixing arcade machines but i am very good at solidering

now i do not un derstand what/where the chassie is to find this test switch, can you explain alittle more for me sir.

also where is the TR402 & TR403 located at? are thoes on the PCB or on the monitors PCB or the moniters power bord?

You have vertical collapse. Check the test switch in the center of the chassis first, then check for cold solder joints on TR402 & TR403.
 
punchout

no, im wayyyy up here in Northern Maine

this was bought from the South Portland Area in Maine

I Packed it in my SUV with my drivers seat jacked ahead (very uncomfortable) and drove it home 6 1/2 hours away (North) also in a small snow storm

-Dave

Im from the Snowie State of Maine where right now we have about 3 feet of snow
 
wow thank you for the SUPER FAST responce,

now im a newb at fixing arcade machines but i am very good at solidering

now i do not un derstand what/where the chassie is to find this test switch, can you explain alittle more for me sir.

also where is the TR402 & TR403 located at? are thoes on the PCB or on the monitors PCB or the moniters power bord?

You have vertical collapse. Check the test switch in the center of the chassis first, then check for cold solder joints on TR402 & TR403.

This is a monitor issue. The chassis is the boardset on the monitor. Almost directly in the center of the chassis there is a test switch. Flip the test switch to the other side and see what you get, and then flip it back and see what you get. TR402 & TR403 are transistors that are mounted to silver heat sinks on the right hand side of the chassis, and are known for cold solder joints.
 
thanks

wow your so smart!! dude thank you soooo much for helping me!!!

im going to go and try what you said, i will post my results

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
switch

ok well i found the switch, with the machine unplugged i fliped it, powerd on and i still get the line in the middle (no change) then i unpluged and fliped it back powerd it up and i still get the line in the middle, (no change)

so now im going to check for the TR402 & TR403, so im probally going to pull the bord out.

and for me to fix a cold solider joint all i need to do would be reheat the joint and apply a little more solder, or if thair is to much use a suker to suck the excess solider up and then reapply solider. is this correct?

also another quick question is if i replaced all the caps on the monitor what would the pro's be for doing this? would i get better picture/color?

thanks again!
dave
 
switch

here is a picture of the switch just incase some one comes across this and need the pic.
 
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here is a picture of the switch just incase some one comes across this and need the pic.

This is easier...

SanyoBoardControls.jpg
 
thanks

wow thanks for that!

im in process of removing the bord right now,

then i will re-soilder the TR points listed above

ill post my outcome

THANK YOU GUYS for all the help,

do you guys have anything elce usefull for this machine? like any more pictures like the one above? i like to print it all out to have, i have allredy printed the manual for this

-dave
 
I had the same problem recently and replaced TR402 & TR403 and it fixed it . They only cost a couple bucks . Theres supposed to be a Mica insulator between the transistor and the heat sink the transistor screws into , but whoever worked on my monitor last didn't use one so it shorted the transistor . So if you replace the transistor , use a mica insulator and some Silicone Heat Sink Grease , its that white stuff you'll see on the old transistor .
 
still got a line

well, i pulled out the monitor and removed the solider from the TR402 & TR403 then resoliderd the points. put it all back together, and i still have the same problem, only a Big white line in the middle of the screen, see pic attached........

So if anyone elce knows anything that i can do to fix this, it would be greatly appreciated

also thank you (ScumBum) for the input, im thinking that replacing the TR402/403 is what im going to do right now, i have all kinds of electric componets laying around here, ill post my results here.....

now would replacing the CAPS help this any?

I figurd since i have the bord out i can replace them easy.

IDK what would replacing the CAPS do for it?
 
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type

does anyone knoww what type/model of transistor is in spot TR402 & TR403 ?
 
help

well i looked at all my extra parts and could not find any with thoes #'s on them, then i looked thought all my old junk (i have tons of old electronics) and still couldnt find the #'s...

or where am i able to buy them from radioshack? mouser?

does anyone have any they want to sell or know something electronic that i can desolider them from to use on the punchout monitor?


-also do they both have to have the same #'s that are listed here?

2sc2073
2sa940
 
hum

hummm, now i see that the audio board has the same 2 transistors that i would need, now i wounder what would happen if i use thoes and replace the bad ones with the audio's ones, and the monitor ones where the audio are suppost to be,

does anyone know how the audio would act? scratchy? wont work?
 
hum

well i have to have audio and i have to have the top screen working, lol

but i guess it would be ok to try them to see if thats the prob

then if thats the prob then ill find a place to buy them also i did email bob to see if he has them and a price quote it should be no more then a couple bucks for each,

lol im just bord... gotta do sumthing to pass the time... so i just mite desolider them out of the audio to try them on the monitor
 
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