**please help a noob in need**

SabbathGray

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Okay, a couple days ago I bought a cab that had Striker 1945 in it. Before I bought it I had the guys run the game, looked great, the monitor looked crisp, I was excited. The cab is all set up for jamma and the buttons and everything were working flawlessly. Main word being "were". I got it home and threw my 60-1 board that I bought into it, ready to show it off... Well, the monitor had my dreams come crashing down. Had the dip switch set to VGA, well I was getting a rolling screen along with a double image. Not truly double, more like a 1 1/2 image. So I switched the switch to CGA. I'm getting a full screen now, but it's really rolling. VGA is the closest I got to the rolling actually stopping, but only getting it to a slow crawl. The numbers on the chassis are 25X3299-00 1-G, so through some research I'm figuring it's a WGU2000. Please HELP! Like I said, I'm a noob in need, so any explanation would be great if it were dumbed down. Thank you guys so much!
 
your "model #" you posted looks like the numbers you pulled off the tube. those are pretty useless. take a picture of your monitor chassis for better help.

your Strikers 1945 is a standard resolution game (CGA), which means you have to run your 60-in-1 on CGA.

I don't muck with these multicade setups, I don't know which way your picture is rolling, but I do encourage you try fiddling with the vertical and/or horizontal hold pots on the remote adjustment board. it's not uncommon for the holds to go out of adjustment between game swaps.

sometimes you can get lucky and adjust them just right to where the hold settings will work for both games. :)

the U2000 however is a standard resolution ONLY monitor, though there's a possibility it could be a U5000 too that's just jumpered to run in CGA mode (those are switchable CGA/EGA)

try adjusting the holds. fix that, and then whatever chassis you have will be moot for this issue.
 
Yeah, if the picture is rolling, that means it has no sync. Try adjusting holds, as suggested above. If that doesn't seem to remedy your issue, make sure you've got the sync connections correctly connected. Has the 60 board worked on ANY other monitor?

I've swapped monitors a few times and I've had to connect/disconnect positive and negative sync before I found a combination that locked the picture in.

One other thing: make sure all of the connector pins are making good contact. Cold solder joints or a pin not properly plugged in can cause this too.
 
This is the best picture I could get of the back of the monitor. I have the numbers from the chassis above. I really appreciate you guy's help. I've got it to where it's almost still at times. It seems now that I've switched off of VGA, the lines kind of go diagonally and run from which ever side I twist the nodes. I can get it to go both ways really, just can't get it to slow down like on VGA. I've attached a photo of the screen, it looks more blurry than it actually is, but the colors are still moving across the screen pretty good. It's frustrating to see this same cab play a game perfect, then put my board in and get this. I haven't been able to try the board on any other monitor cause, like I said, I'm a noob. This is my first cab. Thank you guys.
 

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Look at the pics on this page and figure out which chassis you have, or get a pic of the chassis:

http://therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html

Then, show us how the sync is connected. JAMMA games run on a composite negative sync, but it is not uncommon to have to adjust the horizontal or vertical hold when swapping boards.

I'm sure you put the Strikers back in to make sure it still works just fine?
 
Okay, here's a picture of the sync connection... I think.

It's a WG U2000 for sure. I can't find the sticker on the chassis which should say 2520, but I'm pretty sure by everything else I'm looking up and looking at that this is the case.

I've messed with the horizontal and vertical holds until my face has turned blue. I can get the movement to slow, but not stop. I can even get the lines to go straight across and not be diagonal.

Also, I would throw Strikers back in there, but the guy that sold me the cab wanted to keep that game, so he kept that board and marquee.

Am I just doing something majorly wrong here? I thought I went through the steps of making a good purchase, had him play the last game in this cab and all.

Continually appreciating you guys' efforts -
 

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ok the sync connector is the small one, the three hole connector.

try jumpering the sync wire( pin closest to the front of the monitor) and make a jumper from that one to the empty hole. for now bare wire will do for testing but eventually youll want to get a proper molex connector pin.


if that works there you go. if not, just for gigs, try flipping the sync connector around. it will be a tight fit but you should be able to do it if you are cereful enough.

Its too bad you dont have a known good board to test as these multi boards have been known to have various issues. to bad im not closer, id be happy to help in person if i could.
 
You appear to missing the video ground. In your longer connector, it would normally be the fourth pin. You have the first 3 - red, green and blue, but I believe you need video ground in the next hole. In your smaller connector (the 3 pin one) the ground is the one closest to the larger connector. You can also try adding a jumper wire from that one to the 4th pin on the 6 pin header.
 
But my question is, this thing was just running a game three days ago. Nothing inside has changed. Would it be something smaller than missing wires completely?
 
I don't know if this is a step in the right direction or not, but it seems that way to me. I switched my 60-1 board over to VGA instead of CGA and I'm not getting a perfect screen, but I am getting 1 1/2 with a sloooow roll from left to right. I messed with the holds and can't get it to be still. Here's an image attached of what the screen looks like now. Thoughts?
 

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I don't know if this is a step in the right direction or not, but it seems that way to me. I switched my 60-1 board over to VGA instead of CGA and I'm not getting a perfect screen, but I am getting 1 1/2 with a sloooow roll from left to right. I messed with the holds and can't get it to be still. Here's an image attached of what the screen looks like now. Thoughts?

If you keep that up, you'll probably blow the HOT or horizontal oscillator.

Did you try jumpering the sync or video ground like was suggested - using CGA of course.

And this is assuming it IS a U2000, and not a K7400, U5000, or god forbid, a K7500...
 
See... like I said, noob in need... i need to pick up some molex wires correct. Figure Radio Shack?
 
Not until you verify the jumpering works. Just use a length of wire with the ends stripped off and shove in the top of the connector at the pins they mentioned in the earlier posts. If it works then you can worry about a permanent fix.
 
Cool. Got some things in the works. Thank you guys. Will let you know what that outcome is.
 
Awww... don't hate on the K7500 (which I'd much rather have than the U5000 ;) )

It's not that it's bad, but if you try to rebuild a 7501 like it's a 7502, then you get some pincushioning issues.

Plus if it's a medium-res, then he'll never get it to work...
 
Alright... I did everything that was suggested. Daisy chained, added the ground... Same result. Went ahead and plugged an lcd monitor that's sitting around my house and it worked flawlessly... So that's frustrating. I just gotta get this stupid CGA monitor that's actually IN the cab to work right. I wouldn't be so mad if I hadn't seen the monitor acting right just the day before... Any other ideas?
 

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The ground is in the right place, if you look on the bottom of the connector I think they're both connected anyways. Also on the sync the monitor can use it just connected composite in the last slot, which is exactly where it is.

Not sure what the problem is, but I dont' think jumpering it is going to change anything.
 
Did you change a dip switch setting before connecting the LCD? I hope so, because if you didn't, then that's why the CGA in the cab won't work...
 
Yes, yes. Of course I changed to VGA before trying the LCD. I was just wanting to make sure that it wasn't the board sending crazy signals somewhere. This is a paaaaain!
 
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