Playchoice Dr. Mario pcb pictures

inmyrem

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Can someone please take a picture of the front side of their Dr. Mario Playchoice pcb for me? I bought one off the boards and it will not work. I'd like to double-check all the SL and CL locations.

Thanks!
 
picture.php
 
Thank you! That's very helpful. You wouldn't happen to have a back view of it as well, would you? The board I bought has some cables soldered to various places that I'm not sure should belong.
 
if it has 2 jumper wires on the back then it was at some point a festers quest pcb

it should have solder points at sl 1/10/9/14/17 cl 5 and cl 6 if its a dr mario

dl this the pdf file will tell you exactlty the diffrence betwene carts

http://www.mediafire.com/?shxcas3ytfedbxc

from the pdf it also shows dr mario using the wrong size chips for the socket provided (27356) and they need to be alined to the right side of the socket
 
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I peeled the sticker. It was originally a Ninja Gaiden board. The person I bought it from said it was working as Dr. Mario before he sent it, but I'm not so convinced. The board shows signs of more than just a simple conversion done. Not only that, CL's 5 and 6 were definitely not soldered. They had a nice gash breaking the solder point between each of them. After rejoining those two, the board still comes up as a blank screen when selected. A friend thinks the problem could be the sram. I'm just going to remove the chips and convert another compatible board I'm not using at the moment. Thanks for the pics and info guys!
 
But keep in mind that Dr. Mario's are very notorious for being finicky. I've had 2 different Dr. Mario pcb's... one that worked fine in my cab but not it my buddy's and the other that didn't work in my cab but did in my buddy's. Fortunately he is local so it was easy to test them. There were no other differences in our PC-10 setups... even the main pcbs were the same model.
 
I do have two PC10 boards and was able to verify the Dr. Mario pcb doesn't work on either. I'm not sure what else to quickly try other than using another pcb and setting the solder points.

But keep in mind that Dr. Mario's are very notorious for being finicky. I've had 2 different Dr. Mario pcb's... one that worked fine in my cab but not it my buddy's and the other that didn't work in my cab but did in my buddy's. Fortunately he is local so it was easy to test them. There were no other differences in our PC-10 setups... even the main pcbs were the same model.
 
to confirm its a bad cart
convert it to the tmnt settings

and try one of thoes chips i sent you that are compatible with tmnt
Bubble Bobble
Track & Field 2

then you can confirm if its a bad cart or bad chips without mucking with a known good cart



(tip use desolder braid to remove the solder from the sl /cl pads a solder sucker works but leaves tons of solder behind and it looks messy)
 
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I like that idea better. I'll try that this evening.

All I have is braid. :)

to confirm its a bad cart
convert it to the tmnt settings

and try one of thoes chips i sent you that are compatible with tmnt

then you can confirm if its a bad cart or bad chips without mucking with a known good cart



(tip use desolder braid to remove the solder from the sl /cl pads a solder sucker works but leaves tons of solder behind and it looks messy)
 
Okay, been messing around with it for about half an hour now. Cannot get anything to work properly on the Dr. Mario/Ninja Gaiden board I was sold. Anything I put on there shows up with partial sprites. All sounds and music are fine. I took the TMNT board and converted it to use with the Dr. Mario chips and verified the chips work beautifully. Played the game for about 10 minutes with no flaws at all. So now back to the Dr. Mario/Ninja Gaiden board I was sold as working. Any ideas as to what to try next to get that board working? It won't show anything at all with the Dr. Mario chips in, but partial video with TMNT, Bubble Bobble and Track & Field 2 chips in. I suppose I could just find another F board to use or convert my Tecmo Bowl, but I'd like to get this board working if possible instead of chucking it to the side. Anyone interested in buying it to repair? :p
 
Now this is just plain frickin weird. I messed around with the board more. Removed the one small wire in the corner on the back of the board and now Track & Field 2 plays beautifully on the Dr. Mario pcb! I'm not even going to question it. I'm leaving Track & Field 2 on that board for now and the Dr. Mario chips on the TMNT board I was using for Track & Field 2. Plain frickin weird. I have no idea what that small wire was doing to the board, but removing it fixed the graphics glitch issue. Dr. Mario still won't work on that board though. Tried it just to see. Letting T&F2 run right now to see if it glitches at all.
 
of that type of cart only 2 needed jumper wires
festers quest was set like this
Jumper U8 pin 6 to Solder hole to the left of C6 label Jumper U8 pin 7 to solder hole to the right U2 pin 15

and rc pro am

set like
Jumper U4 pin 27 to U7 pin 21

rc pro am also had a ton of diodes connected that the other carts do not have
it has dioeds at
D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7

every other cart of that type only had them at d5

so of your cart is setup like a rc pro am i bet its mucking with certian chips as the jumpers and diodes have a lot to do with the memory adressing
 
I'm honestly not certain what that short wire was connecting, but with it gone, the other chips seem to work just peachy on that one board. Except for the Dr. Mario chips, which I find odd. There are two other wires on the back, which are also on the TMNT board and a Fester's Quest I have, so I've left those alone. The only diode which was soldered on those boards was D5. Aside from that, I can't really see anything physically different. Like I said, since everything's working great now with the swap, I've left them alone to work like that. If it's not broke, don't mess with it, right? ;)
 
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