when you cap these, they're so friggin old that the new electrolytics REQUIRE you to go over every adjustment.
areas to look at:
brightness (you may have to adjust this at the Screen pot on the flyback, Brightness pot on the adjustment board, and there's another Middle Brightness adjustment -- I never mucked with that one though)
color biases (you may notice a tint of one of the primary colors in the picture, dial all the knobs to center and then add until white is pure white again)
B+ (I've also seen where the B+ may need to be adjusted to 108.0V)
and of course any size or position adjustments.
also, the jumper that freeplayinc refers to is something like a set of 3 pins, they'll be labeled like L C and R I THINK, haven't seen one of these chassis in awhile, but it's definitely a position jumper. I recommend only changing this while the machine is off. you'll find it on the back edge of the chassis (the one closest to you if you're behind the cabinet) I believe.