Playchoice 10 Sany EZ20 problems after cap kit

freeder23

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Having issues with my lower Sanyo EZ20 monitor on my playchoice 10. The top of the screen curled and it would shake violently at times. Anyway, I decided to install a Bob Roberts cap kit. Now when I turn it on, I only get a little circle of light in the center of the screen. Aany ideas on what I messed up in the process? See attached picture. Thanks!
 

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Is likely something you did. Check that all the caps are in their right locations also check to see if the polaritys are correct. also if you have an ESR meter go cap by cap and test them.
 
It works!!! I checked all the capacitors and they appeared to be okay. Then I touched up all the solder joints. Re-installed the board and it works!!! I'm not sure if it was a cold solder joint or what...

I am still having one issue though... The screen doesn't shake anymore (at least not yet). However, the top of the screen is still pulling to the left. Any ideas on what is causing that? See attached pictures. Thanks in advance for the help!!!
 

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H hold? Where is that? All I see is: Volume, bright. H-center, v-hold, v-size.

I tried v-hold and it just makes the screen flip.

Thanks!!!
 
I finally found H-hold. At the outer limit (right before the screen starts going crazy) I can get it to straighten out the bend at the top a little bit. I noticed that the whole screen is shifted to the right. So, I adjusted the H-center but it caused the screen to flip out. kept playing with both and the best I can do (H-center turned all the way) the screen is still shifted to the right and I still have a bend at the top (just not as bad as before).

Anything I can do to fix that?

I'm thinking of just swapping monitors between top and bottom. The top monitor doesn't have any issues...

Thanks for the help!
 
There's a jumper on the chassis that will shift the screen to the left or right if its installed and if it's not then you may need to jumper it to shift your screen, If I remember right it's towards the back of the chassis by the flyback cage.
 
when you cap these, they're so friggin old that the new electrolytics REQUIRE you to go over every adjustment.

areas to look at:
brightness (you may have to adjust this at the Screen pot on the flyback, Brightness pot on the adjustment board, and there's another Middle Brightness adjustment -- I never mucked with that one though)

color biases (you may notice a tint of one of the primary colors in the picture, dial all the knobs to center and then add until white is pure white again)

B+ (I've also seen where the B+ may need to be adjusted to 108.0V)

and of course any size or position adjustments.

also, the jumper that freeplayinc refers to is something like a set of 3 pins, they'll be labeled like L C and R I THINK, haven't seen one of these chassis in awhile, but it's definitely a position jumper. I recommend only changing this while the machine is off. you'll find it on the back edge of the chassis (the one closest to you if you're behind the cabinet) I believe.
 
Sanyo20EZ.jpg
 
I think I got th monitor about as good as it is going to get. Still some bending at the top but much better than before.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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