Playchoice 10 monitor issues

freeder23

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I have a playchoice 10 that I just bought. It's a big hit with my friends already but I am having problems with the lower monitor. Both monitors appear to be Sanyo EZ monitors like I have in my Donkey Kong cab. The lower monitor is pulling to the right at the top and the screen shakes rapidly shortly after you start it up. The shaking usually goes away after the monitor warms up but the screen still pulls at the top. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Does it need a cap kit?

Also, It needs restored a bit. I already bought some T-molding but I am also in need of a new overlay for the control pannel. Is there a good place for overlays?

Thanks!
 
Does it need a cap kit?

yes. electrolytic capacitors dry out and make all kinds of odd problems happen.

cold solder joints are a problem too. fix them too while you have the monitor chassis out doing the cap kit.

remember to discharge the monitor with the button there on the chassis so you dont get a bad shock.
 
Where would this magical discharge button that you speak of be located. If you're talking about the little red button in the frame rail, that's a degauss button not a discharge.
 
Where would this magical discharge button that you speak of be located. If you're talking about the little red button in the frame rail, that's a degauss button not a discharge.

Hey Chris the Sanyo I bought off of you on Ebay for my Donkey Kong is still running strong. Well except that the screen went blue/black and white. Just needs a new F2 PROM I think. Have one on order.
 
Thanks for the tips. I will start with the H-hold and go from there. I'm pretty nervous about doing a cap kit. I'm afraid I will destroy the board with my lack of soldering skills. Maybe if I start practicing now, I would be good enough to do it by Holliday shutdown. I probably won't get to it before then.

Thanks for the overlay tip too. I just bought some new T-molding and I see another purchase in my future...
 
cap kits aren't that difficult to do. Just take your time and don't rush it and you'll be fine. If you've never soldered anything before, practice on something that's either already damaged and/or you're not afraid to lose. Also, be sure to use a desoldering pump. Another thing you can do as a precaution, is to take a high res picture of the chassis as it is currently so you always have a reference image to go with the cap kit schematic. Most cap kits, like the ones you buy from Bob Roberts (which I recommend) come with a diagram that's easy to follow. Just take your time and you'll be fine.
 
just thought I'd throw this out... the Radio Shack desoldering pump is my tool of choice. I tried a manual pump and wound up frying some solder joints on a ticket dispenser board. since then I've used the shack one instead.

however, for caps, you don't even really need that, you can use a regular iron. for delicate jobs I prefer this setup: http://www.chesterelectronics.com/cgi/catalog.cgi?category=solder&item=1227467749 (not advertising the store, just the type of iron .. you can buy this kit through Happ like I did). I like it because it's low wattage, and the actual shaft component is shorter, so it's a lot easier to handle. it even has a cool light up base to let you know that it's on LOL

there's resources everywhere for how to do cap kits. trust me, they're easy to do, but if you're new at it, don't take what these guys (;)) say to heart about it being like a 30-60 minute job, it's not a race. just take your time and be accurate about it. make sure the ratings are the same and you have the polarity correct.

that said, good luck. I need to re-cap my PC-10 monitors too.
 
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