Playchoice 10 Dual repair help - RESOLVED

Other cherry buttons wired NO

I can attach wiring harness and game will turn on and show menu

I can then simply turn off game for a few mins and will not power on again, no wiring or harness touched in between.

LED will flicker once but not show game menu - when checking shows 5.1v / 24.1 V at correct locations. But also there is a 11.9V which at least in my manual isn't needed. 11.9v at pins 19/20

When game isn't showing I do read 5v on board side.

I did check power supply pins and they all show correct voltage.

After leaving it turned on a few mins
Machine then turned on! Thinking maybe a capacitor issue?
But game still won't load and disappears

I have tried reset button NO and NC

But my manual shows reset should be NO - see pic below

I deleted the new service button and reversed to original - the button does add time now.

What coin up dip settings should I be using instead of free play? I just picked one as there are many combinations

I appreciate input as I'm at a loss

Thoughts
1) recap pcb board?
2) replace ram at 2K/4K
I would have to agree with kaboom, there must be a wiring short happening somewhere. If you are getting those voltages and even still +5 while game is dissappearing, then a wire or switch somewhere could be forcing a restart. It can be any micro switch, coin door, CP, service button etc.
Below is the dip setting for most time you can add, but even in coin mode, you still have the resetting issue I assume?
7D6783BE-0DFE-43C8-A6A1-0D8AC78C5B45.jpeg
 
I'm quite certain the Reset button is NC. I have to attempt to fix PC-10 gun today at some point, so I can see what wires go where.
 
I'm quite certain the Reset button is NC. I have to attempt to fix PC-10 gun today at some point, so I can see what wires go where.
I think the single monitor machines are NC
Duals are NO

I took a screen shot of the schematic
I would have to agree with kaboom, there must be a wiring short happening somewhere. If you are getting those voltages and even still +5 while game is dissappearing, then a wire or switch somewhere could be forcing a restart. It can be any micro switch, coin door, CP, service button etc.
Below is the dip setting for most time you can add, but even in coin mode, you still have the resetting issue I assume?
View attachment 773917

Yes still happens in coin mode.
Although I tried a coin and neither slot added time.
May look into coin door wiring tonight.
 
I think the single monitor machines are NC
Duals are NO

I took a screen shot of the schematic


Yes still happens in coin mode.
Although I tried a coin and neither slot added time.
May look into coin door wiring tonight.
oh right, that was a single monitor where I had issues with the free play rom :ROFLMAO:
 
I think the single monitor machines are NC
Duals are NO

I took a screen shot of the schematic


Yes still happens in coin mode.
Although I tried a coin and neither slot added time.
May look into coin door wiring tonight.
Ok this one has been burning in my mind all day at work lmao. Had to come home and 100% verify before replying. I just looked under my CP of my dual monitor playchoice, and my reset button is wired to "NO", same as all the other Cherry buttons. (Mind you that I always keep my cabinet on free play) so in free play mode it should be wired to NO.59238348-EF0C-4A56-8E13-F4B9700380A2.jpeg
I also threw in a couple pics of how the wiring is setup through the service switch. E2242E9B-8147-4431-BEBE-556B6A9E93B8.jpegFAC4F9C9-8F06-4513-A30A-E22C88564F0D.jpeg77DC2300-B254-47BE-A8DC-68968E0ABF1D.jpeg
If you have the Cp off you could check continuity of the pig tail connector and click each button to see if you get a beep on the multimeter and ensure the micro switch actually functions. If all looks good, perhaps try the same thing with coin door micro switchs. Hopefully you find something🙏🤘
 
Those caps are looking pretty original though lol. I'd have to go that direction next if everything else is 100% verified. But again I'm no expert. Also, if the board is getting inconsistent power that issue is still lingering in the back of my mind. And seems to be related to this🧐
 
Small update

1) I now have consistent power and the game boots to menu consistently - only thing I did was reflow some solder but more so replace socket to PPU chip as it looked not so clean.

2) all cherry buttons confirmed working

3) game is still not loading and vanishes after hitting enter on said game on menu screen

4) I have 2k/4k Ram on order from Joe - going to install sockets and replace those - if problem persists also have logic probe on order to see if I can trace to particular chip

5) cpo - continuity confirmed….except my coin door does not add time…
Since moving service switch back it does add time now.

6) if service counter is connected game will not load menu correctly - if unplugged it will - see pic below for connection

Any thoughts or help appreciated

Also Pdxcollector pics are helpful! Ty 🤓
 

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Small update

1) I now have consistent power and the game boots to menu consistently - only thing I did was reflow some solder but more so replace socket to PPU chip as it looked not so clean.

2) all cherry buttons confirmed working

3) game is still not loading and vanishes after hitting enter on said game on menu screen

4) I have 2k/4k Ram on order from Joe - going to install sockets and replace those - if problem persists also have logic probe on order to see if I can trace to particular chip

5) cpo - continuity confirmed….except my coin door does not add time…
Since moving service switch back it does add time now.

6) if service counter is connected game will not load menu correctly - if unplugged it will - see pic below for connection

Any thoughts or help appreciated

Also Pdxcollector pics are helpful! Ty 🤓
I'm still gonna die on the wiring hill….
 
Took all wires out of cabinet and confirmed continuity to all. Voltage correct at power supply, wires and board connector

Also permanently fixed service switch as the yellow cable had a break from zip tip over time.

Cpo switches and continuity all checked and good, all switches confirmed working.

Fixed coin actuator as contracts corroded - sanded - coin mech now adds time as does service switch

I'm leaning towards recapping board if replacing the 2k/4k ram doesn't work.

Thoughts? Advice? Help 🤯🥺🫠


🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥🫥


PS - side note - found file for 3d printed holster
Should be printed by end of week.

Link below

 

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Maybe your PC10 power supply is going bad or just has bad caps enough out of spec when under load that is causing problems? Either that or you in to sending the PCB off for repair.

If you have a jamma test rig or can you can grab one of these to verify PCB operation.

 
Maybe your PC10 power supply is going bad or just has bad caps enough out of spec when under load that is causing problems? Either that or you in to sending the PCB off for repair.

If you have a jamma test rig or can you can grab one of these to verify PCB operation.

Bc pcb was taking a min to get power I thought maybe a pcb board issue but could be a power supply gradually failing???

Would you get correct voltage but not enough amps?

I don't have a test rig but thought about getting one bc I have several projects behind this one. I ordered a logic probe.

I also have a friend about 3 hrs away that has a dual monitor- may take pcb there and hook up first. To rule out cabinet.

If all else fails I'll send pcb out

I'll post after chips arrive and installed

What is general consensus? Rebuild current power supply if needed or replace?
Thanks everyone
 
you don't need a logic probe. you just need a multimeter. if you're buying games and don't have one of those then you're living very recklessly.
I have a multimeter but between the z80 side and the nes side there's quite a few chips. Thought it would be quicker with logic probe?
 
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This might be a long shot… but where is the 12pin plug getting plugged in at? 69BCA25F-019E-400D-B53E-0F9A2845389B.jpeg
I'm not sure about this, but my power supply for my dual monitor has two plugins for the 9pin and 12pin wiring. You are plugging the 12pin in somewhere right? Not sure where it would go, if not the power supply?…
See below662C9D9C-4033-46B9-BDAC-53AAABA5AEAF.jpeg0AF3183F-458B-46B7-976B-782C5C9776C2.jpeg
Possibly incorrect power supply?🧐
 
that's a Punch-Out power supply. I don't know for absolute certain but the game may have been a conversion. my PC-10 dual monitor has the glass panels, Punch-Out had a single bent dark plexi, is that what your game has?

either way I'm certain 1000A or 1300A should work with it. I don't remember what single monitor PC-10s had
 
that's a Punch-Out power supply. I don't know for absolute certain but the game may have been a conversion. my PC-10 dual monitor has the glass panels, Punch-Out had a single bent dark plexi, is that what your game has?

either way I'm certain 1000A or 1300A should work with it. I don't remember what single monitor PC-10s had
The lower pics I posted is my power supply. The pic I attached above with the highlighted circles is OP pictures. Can't see his model# on his power supply but looks to be missing the plug-in for 12pin.
 
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