Plans for my $70 Mr. Do!

MTPPC

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So I picked up this game that had been advertised for $200 for a couple of months and then for $100 for a month or so. I'd say the cabinet is about a 3.5/10. The bottom has some water damage and someone had screwed a couple of 1 x 4 on the bottom. The front of the floor was collapsing and the machine basically rocked like a rocking chair until the chewed up side panels touched the ground.

The monitor and electronics are perfect. One button is missing, but the game plays great with the other button and joystick. The cardboard bezel is saggy, but I can probably stiffen it up and paint it to make it useful. I had to replace the speaker panel above the monitor and I did that today after I stitched up the sagging cabinet with a couple of dozen decking screws. I screwed some levelers on the bottom and a new starter in the marquee light and this thing is now structurally sound and functional. The t-molding grooves are filled up with silicone adhesive and I'm not sure how I'll clear them out.

I'm trying to make this thing presentable without hacking it up any more than I have already so maybe instead of swearing at me and calling me names, some of you guys might be able to help me out a bit with a suggestion or two on how to make this thing presentable. For those of you who haven't cussed me out yet, thanks.

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If it's for another 60-in-1, you already know what will happen, just a warning.

For the holes, fill them up with Bondo and go to a hardware store to get the grain matched.
You will need a new CPO and to repaint the interior of the cabinet. The coin door will just need some cleaning, it's pretty good. The bezel can be reinforced with some cardboard. May as well get a correct Mr. Do! bezel, though.

The t-molding can be removed with a flathead screwdriver. Edit: Renegade beat me to it.

I think he deserved more tham a 3.5, maybe a 5-6.
 
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honestly if you like Mr. Do and it works just patch up the control panel, replace the missing button, use bondo on the body and run with it. Personally I'd rather not see a machine were all the electronics work reduced to another 60-1 emulator....(in otherwords just go with it)
 
Hm...kind of seems familiar. My Frogger had many of the same symptoms. While moving it around, one of the front corners cracked and the whole thing was starting to lean. Hadn't planned on working on it during the winter, but I was afraid of it toppling over, so the work began:

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Ultimately, I chose to replace the rotten wood. This may be more work than you are willing to do, but it is an option:

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Had to make new front & back lower panels, inner reinforcements & the outer patch panels. Wood hardener was needed as well. Yours probably needs similar repairs.

-Rob
 
Guys, come on. He already ruined a really nice Ms. Pac for a horiz multi and wants to make her a stealth multi MAME. Let's just keep this lovely Mr. Do original.
 
Guys, come on. He already ruined a really nice Ms. Pac for a horiz multi and wants to make her a stealth multi MAME. Let's just keep this lovely Mr. Do original.

Ummm... I didn't see the Ms.Pac but as for this game: The cabinet is generic and it is crap. There is no sideart or CPO. The control panel is hacked. The wiring harness is most likely hacked. The monitor is OK but most likely needs caps. There is no bezel. The marquee may have been cut down to fit in that cabinet. The only "nice" thing I see on that entire cabinet that merits ANY kind of restoration is the coin door.

I dislike the multi-game movement as much as anyone here... BUT, there is a point where restoration is not only unviable, it is uncalled for! This is one of those times. There is a REASON why no one would give $200 for that POS. There is a reason no one would give $100 for that POS. It is not a minty Major Havoc with a scuff on the side that needs a cap kit. It is not even a converted PAC with most of the wiring harness and CP in tact. That thing is dumpster fodder. Pull the monitor, pull the coin door, sell the kit, and make the cabinet into: a fire, a pile of broken wood, a chair, a stereo cabinet, a fish tank holder, a coffin, whatever. Anything else is a waste of effort to save a game NO ONE WILL MISS!

Don't forget when you are looking down from on high: It is easy to tell someone else what to do with THEIR TIME and THEIR MONEY but if you were spending both of those on this game chances are you would take my suggestion. If you don't want to help him... don't.

AND PUT YOUR LOCATION IN YOUR PROFILE!!! Everyone gets ONE post from MONGO supporting their efforts no matter what they are. If you don't have a location... that is all you will ever get! THE MONGO HAS SPOKEN!
 
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and this is how jr pac get owned.

Ummm... I didn't see the Ms.Pac but as for this game: The cabinet is generic and it is crap. There is no sideart or CPO. The control panel is hacked. The wiring harness is most likely hacked. The monitor is OK but most likely needs caps. There is no bezel. The marquee may have been cut down to fit in that cabinet. The only "nice" thing I see on that entire cabinet that merits ANY kind of restoration is the coin door.

I dislike the multi-game movement as much as anyone here... BUT, there is a point where restoration is not only unviable, it is uncalled for! This is one of those times. There is a REASON why no one would give $200 for that POS. There is a reason no one would give $100 for that POS. It is not a minty Major Havoc with a scuff on the side that needs a cap kit. It is not even a converted PAC with most of the wiring harness and CP in tact. That thing is dumpster fodder. Pull the monitor, pull the coin door, sell the kit, and make the cabinet into: a fire, a pile of broken wood, a chair, a stereo cabinet, a fish tank holder, a coffin, whatever. Anything else is a waste of effort to save a game NO ONE WILL MISS!

Don't forget when you are looking down from on high: It is easy to tell someone else what to do with THEIR TIME and THEIR MONEY but if you were spending both of those on this game chances are you would take my suggestion. If you don't want to help him... don't.

AND PUT YOUR LOCATION IN YOUR PROFILE!!! Everyone gets ONE post from MONGO supporting their efforts no matter what they are. If you don't have a location... that is all you will ever get! THE MONGO HAS SPOKEN!
 
That is really strange. I have a Frogger cabinet that had almost that same type of damage, in both those examples. The Frogger cabinet is very difficult to work on. There is a box type cavity at the bottom. What I ended up doing was to remove the bottom altogether and replace with ply. I also replaced the bottom front panel and I think even the rear with ply. I still have yet to sand them and paint. However on the sides I was stuck. I think I may have Brett (DPTwiz) take a look at the sides. He was thinking perhaps using dado's to make a slice and replace the bottom portion of the both sides.
The problem being replacement of the laminate. There is no suitable replacement for the woodgrain which I think is Kings Oak Cherry.
http://www.zinfer.com/Frogger.htm

I'm pretty sure that using extra long decking screws is not the proper method to repair said damage to the water logged deck of the cabinet.
 
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and this is how jr pac get owned.

My post wasn't directed at Jr.Pac as much as everyone who thinks they are a purist who takes it to the extreme. I consider myself a purist in both game and auto restoration. HOWEVER... when that 74 Ford Granada you are looking at happens to have already been crushed into a 2x2 foot cube, the last thing you want to hear is someone telling you they aren't going to help, but YOU and three generations of YOUR children should spend their lives hamming the dents out. That way a $200 dollar car that you can find hundreds of in excellent condition won't disappear forever.

Zinfer: I am still amazed that no one has found a suitable replacement for that woodgrain yet.
 
You should have to own an arcade game to be able to comment on anyone elses games.


My post wasn't directed at Jr.Pac as much as everyone who thinks they are a purist who takes it to the extreme. I consider myself a purist in both game and auto restoration. HOWEVER... when that 74 Ford Granada you are looking at happens to have already been crushed into a 2x2 foot cube, the last thing you want to hear is someone telling you they aren't going to help, but YOU and three generations of YOUR children should spend their lives hamming the dents out. That way a $200 dollar car that you can find hundreds of in excellent condition won't disappear forever.

Zinfer: I am still amazed that no one has found a suitable replacement for that woodgrain yet.
 
I made some progress yesterday:

Cleaned the silicone out of t-molding grooves and installed new with white glue and staples. I'll pull the staples out next time I work on it.

Put matching camlocks in the coin door and back panel.

Reinforced, painted and installed the cardboard bezel and installed tinted glass bezel.

Replaced the broken leaf switch with a micro-switch button I had.

Replaced the broken coin mech with a spare so now both coin slots are functional.


Things to do next (not necessarily in this order):

Patch up the corners and T-molding on the bottom of the cabinet.
Correct the main power wiring. (Now when you hit the power switch, it kills the video and marquee light, but not power to the main board and audio amp.
Install a coin return flipper door.
Source and install 6.3V coin slot light bulbs. I think it has 12V bulbs right now.
Bondo up the cabinet.
Neaten up all the wiring.
Source and install Mr. Do! bezel and CPO.
The monitor has a 1/4" of screen droop on the left hand side, but once it warms up, that goes away (cap kit?).

While the cabinet is a piece of crap, it is functional for now. I'd love to do a structural rebuild like those above, but I'm only going to do that if absolutely necessary. There aren't a lot of games and cabinets that come up in my neck of the woods, but I'll keep my eye out for a transplant candidate. I just find it really hard to go out and buy expensive repair materials and do all that work when the occasional cabinet comes up for free or super cheap.

Thanks for the tips so far.

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The next time you go to replace T-molding, it's a good idea to just bondo up the existing channel, then use either a dremel disc or the proper size router T bit.
Then you can avoid using glue and staples and do it right the first time.
 
Zinfer, I am aware of the right way to do things but I'm hampered by a lack of those things most scarce in my life - time and money.
 
I'm trying to make this thing presentable without hacking it up any more than I have already so maybe instead of swearing at me and calling me names, some of you guys might be able to help me out a bit with a suggestion or two on how to make this thing presentable. For those of you who haven't cussed me out yet, thanks.

Np mate, just giving a suggestion or two.
 
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