Pinouts for G07 tube to test it

kelleyphd

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Hi Everyone,

I am still working on getting my G07 working. I decided that I should check the tube to make sure there isn't a short. I am not sure of the pinouts or how to test it. I started looking for and I think I found a couple of heater - cathode shorts. I need some help making sure I am checking the right pins. With the monitor vertical and looking at the pins that are visible (there are 9), the first visible pin on top is G1 and then going clockwise around to the last I think is BK. I think 9 and 10 are heaters and 8 is RK if I am reading it correctly. If so, I get a short between 11-10 and 8-9.

So, am I correct on the pinout? And does this make the tube bad?

Any help would be appreciate.

Thanks
Daniel
 
Get a rejuvenator with the proper adaptor and it will tell you, as well as help clear out certain shorts.

Otherwise, if you look at this document:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/BK_Precision_CR-23_CRT_Adapter.pdf

You'll find the pinout for the CR-23 adapter, which is the one used by BK rejuvenators for the G07 tube...

Thanks for the reply.

So, in your opinion the tube is definitely shorted? According to the attachment I think I had the pins correct. Would this cause F901 to blow immediately? I have a new HOT and flyback and have tested seemingly everything else that could cause this problem. I used Bob Roberts' circuit breaker in place of F901 and the circuit breaker doesn't flip (3A) and I get the start of smoke coming out of a resistor right next to F901. I turn it off and test that resistor and it is still good but I swapped it anyway with no change.
 
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No, you usually won't see a tube short cause problems like what you're experiencing. A bad yoke might. You can unplug the yoke and measure the horizontal and vertical windings (in ohms) to see.

And no, I don't think you'll be able to check the tube for shorts in the way your are trying.

When you replaced the HOT, did you put the insulator on?
 
No, you usually won't see a tube short cause problems like what you're experiencing. A bad yoke might. You can unplug the yoke and measure the horizontal and vertical windings (in ohms) to see.

And no, I don't think you'll be able to check the tube for shorts in the way your are trying.

When you replaced the HOT, did you put the insulator on?

I did check the windings and they were fine. With the pinouts, you posted I now think there is no short in the tube but it is odd that if I hook up the chassis without putting the neck board on the tube, the fuses will not blow and I checked the B+ which was fine. Putting the neck board on and turning on the chassis blows the fuse after a couple of seconds (I do get the whine/hiss of the high voltage before it blows). I replace the HOT with a new insulator and heat sink compound and checked it against the chassis ground before turning it on. The flyback is also new. I have checked the diode bridge and all the transistors, R908, FR401, etc. The voltage regulator is also good.

Any ideas on tracking down the short? Randy Fromm talks about checking resistance to find a short but I am not sure of the procedure.

Thanks,
Daniel
 
Well, when you leave the neckboard off, is the yoke connected, too? If not, then there is no load and probably won't blow the fuse.

Otherwise, is the neck possibly cracked (blue light in the neck when powered up)? If so, it will leak voltage out that could cause a blown fuse.

Have you tried disconnecting the degauss connector when testing?
 
Well, when you leave the neckboard off, is the yoke connected, too? If not, then there is no load and probably won't blow the fuse.

Otherwise, is the neck possibly cracked (blue light in the neck when powered up)? If so, it will leak voltage out that could cause a blown fuse.

Have you tried disconnecting the degauss connector when testing?

I did connect the yoke and the HV wire. I am pretty sure I have seen blue light in the neck. I will try and verify that. If so, that make sense. The degaussing connector has been disconnected.
 
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