pincushion needing adj. after capkit on U5000

mecha

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
24,330
Reaction score
7,036
Location
MKE, Wisconsin
well I had an extra capkit for a U5000, so I figured I'd get rid of that weird ghost artifact effect on my Blitz monitor, but I have a few situations I ran into to address:

(cliffs notes version)
-I had bowing (outward) in the upper left corner prior to the kit -- now it's bowed (albeit symmetrically) on both sides

is there an adjustment pot on the chassis for pincushion? all the pots I see are sealed, so I didn't touch them.

-occasionally the colors will go weird -- it's not losing a color channel, cause all 3 show up, all I can come up with is the White test screen in the game shows up with a purple tint. this comes and goes whenever it pleases.

now is where it gets complicated :)

while capping, I noticed some of the solder pads for the existing caps were fried off and they left the cap legs long to jumper to the next point in the circuit. I too did this, but for added security -- I scraped the coating off the traces and tried to solder the legs along the traces.

I don't have exact cap locations without tearing the monitor apart again, not like anyone here is jacked into The Matrix and could tell me exactly what these do anyway. I ran continuity checks on all the suspect caps and they checked out fine.

-the V-Pos pot on the remote adjust board also has the same problem, the solder joints lifted straight up and brought the traces with them. there's not much I can do in the way of this minus some Bob Roberts-esque hackery with paperclips, unless someone's got a better idea. :)
 
*bump* (even though we've got 1 page of monitor topics)



I seriously think people get scared when I create a thread.
 
I think on the u5000 there is a pincushion transistor mounted on the frame, it may have come unplugged, or gone bad.
 
I think on the u5000 there is a pincushion transistor mounted on the frame, it may have come unplugged, or gone bad.

U5000 in my MK cab has like a funny resistor apparatus mounted to the side of the frame -- my Blitz U5000 has it mounted on the large heatsink.

interesting find though, I'll dig into this some more next week. my MK monitor, for what it's worth, has flawless geometry post-capkit.

perhaps uncle Chad can answer this for us...
 
Lemme ask ya this....

When you did your cap kit, did all the capsin the kit match all the caps in the board perfectly? I've often found that a few caps in the kit are different than what is already in the board...and I mean the uF value, not the voltage...
 
Lemme ask ya this....

When you did your cap kit, did all the capsin the kit match all the caps in the board perfectly? I've often found that a few caps in the kit are different than what is already in the board...and I mean the uF value, not the voltage...

I observed this. it was very strange, cause I read you go with a higher voltage, but you can't change the farad rating by a whole lot. these weren't even close in some cases.

I had 2 capkits, gatordad gave me a Bob Roberts kit, and then I had another one I ordered from Happ. for my MK U5000 I used the Bob Roberts kit, and I read over the cap values repeatedly -- the old ones at least matched the old value listed on the sheet.

the Blitz U5000 though, wow, like I said, some of those caps weren't even close. that kit took me forever to do cause I kept doing double-takes making sure I was putting the right caps in the right places, and of course having to work around the pseudo-jumpering hackery.

given that the solder pads were nuked on a few of the Blitz U5000's caps, I imagine it was re-capped once by someone that didn't know how to desolder right, and they may have put the wrong ones in. either that or it was re-capped a long time ago and the cap kits were different then, and the ones I used were newer ones with more stable values.
 
i just resurected a u5000 for johnrainbo and hes having the same problem now... bowed all to hell on the sides..

on his. he messed with the hv pot ... had too much hv, killed the hot..

i did the hot,. new hv pot, and caps...
works great, but bowed all to hell on the sides....

lmk fi you ever figure out wtf is going on!
 
I'm a little worried about the colors changing. it does it entirely randomly. I tried tapping the chassis and wiggling the signal wires and it didn't do it.

it's not losing a primary color, it's just randomly shifting white to a purplish tint.

and how can I go about fixing the solder pads on my V-Pos pot on the remote board??
 
If you have a pincushion problem and your running 27" make sure your pincushion mini daughter board is present. Should contain 2 pots.

Colors going weird could be a tube issue... usually it will go away after rejuiv. Could be something intermittent with your monitor board also though... hard to say without being there.

As for solder joints / pads a trace is a trace is a trace.. just make the friggen connection 
You can do it pretty or ugly it does not matter as long as the connection is there.

If the pin correction / width transistor is mounted off of your monitor board it should be a 27"..
Watch out for mismatching also.



MODEL CHASSIS NECK BRD CRT YOKE COMMENTS
WGR2550-U4GS20J 054A5191-009 054A5191-003 088X0407-506 009A2984-001 25" CGA 15.7KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME REFURB
WGM2550-U4TR07G 054A5191-004 025A1414-001 088X0385-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2550-U4GR17J 054A5191-007 054A5191-008 088X0376-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA 15.7KHZ U5000 UNIV LOW FREQ
WGM2550-U4GR34J 054A5191-007 054A5191-008 088X0376-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA 15.7KHZ U5000 UNIV LOW FREQ
WGM2550-U4GR43H 054A5191-006 025A1414-001 088X0373-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2550-U4GR46H 054A5191-006 025A1414-001 088X0373-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2550-U4GR50H 054A5191-006 054A2391-019 088X0409-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2550-U4GR60G 054A5191-006 025A1414-001 088X0373-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2550-U4GS60G 054A5191-006 025A1414-001 088X0373-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2550-U4GS22F 054A5191-002 054A5191-003 088X0373-506 009A2988-001 25" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2752-U0GS37F 054A5201-002 025A1414-001 088X0414-506 009A2948-001 27" CGA\EGA 15.7\25KHZ U5000 UNIV FRAME
WGM2752-U0GS38K 054A5201-004 054A5201-005 088X0414-506 009A2948-001 27" U5000 CGA 15.7KHZ ONLY UNIV FRAME
 
yeah on johns messing with those two pots did not help any...

if i ever get my hands on it ill have to open another post and go after it a little more...
 
I wanna be just like Bob Roberts when I grow up.

I'll attack those broken traces with.... PAPER CLIPS!

I didn't get to mess with mine. I don't recall having a daughterboard. all I know is my remote adjust board is pretty raggedy. :eek:

my monitor's a 25", unless we're going based on the actual physical size. which is getting rather confusing now.

in other news, I think the stuck pixels on my MK monitor went away. not sure what the deal was with that. it's still brighter on the very top compared to the rest of the screen. U5000s put out a nice picture, even in standard res, just... they're pretty fucking quirky.

one of these days I'll find a box to ship my Polo chassis to you uncle Chad. been busy with other things lately. :(
 
I saw this and was super excited to hear the answer... Mike's right, my monitor bows like a son of a gun now. Can't wait to fix that stupid thing.
 
mine isn't super obvious, casual player won't notice. but I notice those kinds of things... I'm a tech in my family's arcade, I'm supposed to notice. :)

nobody touches our Blitz, room's pretty full, and it's shoehorned into a bad location cause we got too much video ... need more redemption (sucks, I know)

I got a lot of video games that I'm gonna try to sell. I'll make up a listing in my sig I think.
 
dude just let us know. theres a ton of chicago area and northern il/southern wi klovers, so im sure you wont have an issue selling them.
 
mine isn't super obvious, casual player won't notice. but I notice those kinds of things... I'm a tech in my family's arcade, I'm supposed to notice. :)

nobody touches our Blitz, room's pretty full, and it's shoehorned into a bad location cause we got too much video ... need more redemption (sucks, I know)

I got a lot of video games that I'm gonna try to sell. I'll make up a listing in my sig I think.

Depending on the condition, if you sell MK2 or UMK3, you better let me be the first to know.
 
u5000 pincushion

I have a u5000 monitor which has the hourglass image inwards on bother the right and left sides (horizontaly). any ideas on whats causing this? I can send pics if needed..
 
u5000 / 27k5201 Wells Gardness Pincushion problem

I also have a pincusion problem with my 27" monitor (27k5201 /u5000) in my Star Wars Trilogy Arcade. My monitor frame also has this part mounted to the side. There is no pincushion daughter card on the chassis. Anyone know the value of this resistor ? There is white wire with connector that runs to a pin marked +30V on the deflection board. When I unplug the connector there is no effect on the image. All of the adjustments including width work on the remote board.


U5000 in my MK cab has like a funny resistor apparatus mounted to the side of the frame -- my Blitz U5000 has it mounted on the large heatsink.

interesting find though, I'll dig into this some more next week. my MK monitor, for what it's worth, has flawless geometry post-capkit.

perhaps uncle Chad can answer this for us...
 
Last edited:
I also have a pincusion problem with my 27" monitor (27k5201 /u5000) in my Star Wars Trilogy Arcade. My monitor frame also has this part mounted to the side. There is no pincushion daughter card on the chassis. Anyone know the value of this resistor ? There is white wire with connector that runs to a pin marked +30V on the deflection board. When I unplug the connector there is no effect on the image. All of the adjustments including width work on the remote board.

are you sure you're not talking about the jumper wire that runs from the chassis to a large-ish resistor? you use that if you run the monitor in standard res. SWTA is medium though I'm guessing, maybe this is why you didn't notice. I've run a U5000 in medium res in a Sportstation with the jumper ON and it didn't have any effect.

I have a 27" U5000 I bought last month that came with the pincushion card. I have major issues with the pincushion and trapezoid with that thing, lol, it's just so impractical to adjust with the cab it's mounted in, I can't see a damn thing. basically, that thing is quite useless, I don't think you're missing much. are you sure all the "updates" for the U5000 were applied too?

I have this problem with all my U5000s and a K7500, best way to try and mask it is to stretch the width as far to the outside of the screen as you can.
 
Is the pincushion pcb necessary or was it optional in this model ? I have stretched the width quite a bit, but the image really looks like crap. There must be a faulty component somewhere on the chassis that is causing this problem. I am going to send an email to Chad at Arcadecup and find out about the Pincushion pcb.
 
it was optional I imagine. like I said, I've had pincushion issues both with or without the little board. it's even happened on monitors I freshly re-capped too.

it was never any MAJOR bowing, but if you're getting that then yeah, maybe you have some other underlying problems.
 
Back
Top Bottom