mecha
Well-known member
well I had an extra capkit for a U5000, so I figured I'd get rid of that weird ghost artifact effect on my Blitz monitor, but I have a few situations I ran into to address:
(cliffs notes version)
-I had bowing (outward) in the upper left corner prior to the kit -- now it's bowed (albeit symmetrically) on both sides
is there an adjustment pot on the chassis for pincushion? all the pots I see are sealed, so I didn't touch them.
-occasionally the colors will go weird -- it's not losing a color channel, cause all 3 show up, all I can come up with is the White test screen in the game shows up with a purple tint. this comes and goes whenever it pleases.
now is where it gets complicated
while capping, I noticed some of the solder pads for the existing caps were fried off and they left the cap legs long to jumper to the next point in the circuit. I too did this, but for added security -- I scraped the coating off the traces and tried to solder the legs along the traces.
I don't have exact cap locations without tearing the monitor apart again, not like anyone here is jacked into The Matrix and could tell me exactly what these do anyway. I ran continuity checks on all the suspect caps and they checked out fine.
-the V-Pos pot on the remote adjust board also has the same problem, the solder joints lifted straight up and brought the traces with them. there's not much I can do in the way of this minus some Bob Roberts-esque hackery with paperclips, unless someone's got a better idea.
(cliffs notes version)
-I had bowing (outward) in the upper left corner prior to the kit -- now it's bowed (albeit symmetrically) on both sides
is there an adjustment pot on the chassis for pincushion? all the pots I see are sealed, so I didn't touch them.
-occasionally the colors will go weird -- it's not losing a color channel, cause all 3 show up, all I can come up with is the White test screen in the game shows up with a purple tint. this comes and goes whenever it pleases.
now is where it gets complicated
while capping, I noticed some of the solder pads for the existing caps were fried off and they left the cap legs long to jumper to the next point in the circuit. I too did this, but for added security -- I scraped the coating off the traces and tried to solder the legs along the traces.
I don't have exact cap locations without tearing the monitor apart again, not like anyone here is jacked into The Matrix and could tell me exactly what these do anyway. I ran continuity checks on all the suspect caps and they checked out fine.
-the V-Pos pot on the remote adjust board also has the same problem, the solder joints lifted straight up and brought the traces with them. there's not much I can do in the way of this minus some Bob Roberts-esque hackery with paperclips, unless someone's got a better idea.