FS Parts: Pinball Coils

YellowDog

In Memoriam

Donor 2011, 2013
Joined
Apr 12, 2008
Messages
9,851
Reaction score
158
Location
Humble, Texas
Rating - 100%
74   0   0
I recently picked up a bunch of pinball coils. After picking out the ones that are of use to me right now I decided to post the rest here before shipping them off to eBay.

The prices and list of pins they work in were from Marco Specialties.

My price is 2/3 of the Marco price. Price does not include shipping.

PM if interested.

ken

Code:
[FONT=Courier New]Coil Number           Qty  Marco   My Price [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]G-25-1000 DC            9 $  8.73   $ 6.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]G-31-1500              10 $ 12.50   $ 8.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]AR-26-1200              8 $  9.95   $ 7.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]G-25-850 DC             2 $  9.95   $ 7.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]M-35-4000 DC           12 $ 12.50   $ 8.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]AF-26-750/31-900        5 $ 12.95   $ 9.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]E-184-94                5 $ 12.95   $ 9.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]AO-27-1300              1 $  9.95   $ 7.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]FL-21-400/33-1300 DC    2 $ 12.95   $ 9.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]N-24-700x               2 $ 19.95   $13.00 [/FONT]

PS: I tried to put the machines that these fit on, but the formatting was too messed up. Just look on Marco and you will find an excellent list of machines for each coil.
 
AO-27-1300 - I need one of these as long as it has the diode attached!

Bought one without diode for Xenon and it activated and started cooking.
 
They have the diode and plastic sleeve.

ken

Edit: I picked up the only one I had and brought it home. One of the cats probably thought it looked like a wonderful toy and the dog finished the job. This is the result:

attachment.php


So, I had one. Operative term had. Sorry.

ken
 

Attachments

  • sm_coil.jpg
    sm_coil.jpg
    84.6 KB · Views: 124
Last edited:
Xenon ball relase Coil Cookout

I installed new, uncooked coil with a fresh diode installed, thing still energized on and begins the slow-roast as soon as I turn on machine. Wires are good at board and coil, coil is new, diode is new and configured right.

Coil drives ball release.

Time for more troubleshooting...
 

Attachments

  • Xenonmess1.jpg
    Xenonmess1.jpg
    75.7 KB · Views: 15
  • Xenonmess2.jpg
    Xenonmess2.jpg
    74.8 KB · Views: 10
I installed new, uncooked coil with a fresh diode installed, thing still energized on and begins the slow-roast as soon as I turn on machine. Wires are good at board and coil, coil is new, diode is new and configured right.

Coil drives ball release.

Time for more troubleshooting...

Check backwards to the driver transistor. It is probably shorted open. I have a couple on my Comet that drive one of the sets of flasher bulbs on the backbox (behind one of the sets of fireworks on the backglass) that I need to replace. They shorted on and burn those flasher bulbs out in no time at all. Plus they get really hot when they are left on.

Good luck.

ken
 
coil = new toy for kitty.....

Which would have been alright, she would have gotten tired of it as soon as it went under the couch or something. Then I would have found it sooner or later. It's just the dog wants to play too, but he chews it instead of batting at it. So I am left with a big mess of magnet wire (that may or may not be good depending on whether any of the enamel got chewed off) and the world is left with 1 less working pinball coil. :mad:

ken
 
Are you talking the driver transistor on the Solenoid Driver /Voltage Regulator Module?

If so, it seems to me the season of -22 death for my Bally pins!

Could you tell me which component I should be looking at in the attached schematic? I follow pin 10 (Ball release) to C18, R19, CR8, U3, R20, Q8. Not sure which is which and not recalling mid-80's basic electronics training in the USN!
 

Attachments

  • Xenonmess5.jpg
    Xenonmess5.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:
Are you talking the driver transistor on the Solenoid Driver /Voltage Regulator Module?

If so, it seems to me the season of -22 death for my Bally pins!

Could you tell me which component I should be looking at in the attached schematic? I follow pin 10 (Ball release) to C18, R19, CR8, U3, R20, Q8. Not sure which is which and not recalling mid-80's basic electronics training in the USN!

My guess is that it would be Q8, but it is possible that U3 or C18 is fried. If the previous coil did not have a clamping diode on it, it probably fed back to Q8 and fried it. Looking at the schematic, it looks like there is a clamping diode between Q8 and U3. If you had fried the transistor in U3, you probably would have fried the whole array, which would mean issues with the thumper bumpers and left slingshot.

Most digital multimeters have a transistor test function or you can just check continuity across the legs, so you could try to test Q8. Or since it crosses to a fairly common part, just replace it.

Q8 is an NPN Darlington Power transistor - SE9302 - this cross references to NTE263 or TIP102. GPE (www.greatplainselectronics.com) has TIP102's for $0.50 each.

U3 is an NPN transistor array - CA3081 - this cross references to NTE916. Couldn't find a source for the NTE part, but GPE (www.greatplainselectronics.com) has CA3081's for $2.50

ken
 
Last edited:
TIP 102 Transistor - $.65
Great advice from YellowDog - Free
Curing Solenoid Driver issue and playing a great game of Xenon - PRICELESS

Thanks, YellowDog! You saved me a lot of headache and $149!

-Dave
 
No problem Dave. Glad to help.

I recently helped Rusty get his Xenon moaning and groaning again by burning a set of speech EPROMs. That is really a fun game. I just wish CPR would run another set of playfields. Rusty's Xenon looks like she was rode hard and put away wet. She could use a facelift badly.

ken

PS: No offense Rusty.
 
Back
Top Bottom