Pinball: Bally lamp driver board, on the right track?
I am very inexperienced when it comes to pinball repair and I have started having annoying issues with my "shopped" Bally Paragon pinball machine. I started losing the 1up lower score display bar; instead of a zero it would look like an upside down U. Anyhow, I reseated some cables and this seems to have disappeared, good!
While I was in there, I noticed green corrosion on some of my lamp driver parts: mcr106-1. I pulled three and cleaned them, now I have six lamps that are out (prior I only had three bad ones). I should replace these three parts, right?
I uncovered some junk work to it, burned off and missing pads mostly. I would bet they used a Ratshack non-temperature controlled iron. It all metered out correctly with a continuity check.
Visitors say the tones of my sounds are off. Is this not the correct sound board for Paragon? It looks a little earlier than the other three. The sustain knob only controls the length of the sample before it is cut off. The other knob is a volume pot. I noticed this has some newer parts, they were too cheap to use proper axial caps I see:
I am very inexperienced when it comes to pinball repair and I have started having annoying issues with my "shopped" Bally Paragon pinball machine. I started losing the 1up lower score display bar; instead of a zero it would look like an upside down U. Anyhow, I reseated some cables and this seems to have disappeared, good!
While I was in there, I noticed green corrosion on some of my lamp driver parts: mcr106-1. I pulled three and cleaned them, now I have six lamps that are out (prior I only had three bad ones). I should replace these three parts, right?
I uncovered some junk work to it, burned off and missing pads mostly. I would bet they used a Ratshack non-temperature controlled iron. It all metered out correctly with a continuity check.
Visitors say the tones of my sounds are off. Is this not the correct sound board for Paragon? It looks a little earlier than the other three. The sustain knob only controls the length of the sample before it is cut off. The other knob is a volume pot. I noticed this has some newer parts, they were too cheap to use proper axial caps I see: