I'm putting in an order with security, I have the monitor cap kit, filter caps, big blue, full AR2 rebuild kit, am I missing anything? Should I replace the bottlecap transistors while I'm in there? What part numbers are they?
I wanna have this bad boy ready to go as soon as my board gets back
You really don't need to cap the AR IMO, unless the caps have been physically stepped on (and even then they often still work, LOL). Atari used really good caps on them, and it's not really worth the cost or work (or risk of messing something up) to replace them, as they don't really go bad.
The only things that typically go on the AR's are the 2N3055 bottlecap transistor (the one in the middle in the big heatsink). You can also replace the 5V adjustment pot if you want, which is a 1K. Best to keep the rest of it original. (If it ain't broke, don't fix it.) Also, reflow all of the other components' solder joints, as they like to loosen up on the Asteroids AR's.
Also, if it's an AR-I-01 (i.e., the normal one for Asteroids), note you will measure around 6.0-6.4V on the 5V test point, if you measure it without the game board connected. This is normal, and it will come down to 5V once you plug the game board in. Atari changed the designs of the AR's so the later AR-II's don't do this, but the Asteroids ones do.
For the frame transistors, they're 3716 and 3792. Two of each. But you should only replace them if they are bad (in which case your delfection board probably also has issues.) Look up how to test them. (Or download my 6100 PDF guide, as you can test them the same way in the b/w vector monitors, and the guide explains how
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=404600
If you replace them, you should use new silicone (silpad) insulators, instead of mica and thermal grease. The silpads are easier to use, less messy, and don't use grease. You want ones like these:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=SP400-0.009-00-03
Security0001 should have everything you need.