pcb edge connector repair

security0001

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i have been looking for at least a year to find a way to repair those burnt edges on PCB's and the two problems were the pitting from the eroded board and also attaching new copper to the PCB. i think i found something that is working for both. i would like to hear others input and what they have done or used to make this work short of the normal operator hacks and wires soldered all over the board. this board is out of my dig dug cabaret and it had wires soldered to the board and also the PCB and connector in the cabinet were melted bad. i have a picture. (sorry i forgot to take the before picture). its kind of a trick to do this but the 382 loctite is for PCB and it fills the crater and says it self levels (it needs help with the leveling) and adheres the .005 copper to the PCB very well. soldering i found can't be done after you glue and must be done flat before. i did both sides the same and it did take some trial and error but i am very happy with this final product and anyone else try this or have used any other types of glue etc.?? the two in the bottom of the picture on both sides i repaired. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w595/security0001/IMG_20130925_204553_114_zpsbe3ff549.jpg
 
I use Henkel/Loctite 3906 Chipbonder Epoxy. It can be soldered atop once you've laid fingers back down. It is, however, not self-leveling and a little trickier to use. It's also a thermoset epoxy, so you've got to have somewhere to bake it (~10m @ 90c).
 
I use Henkel/Loctite 3906 Chipbonder Epoxy. It can be soldered atop once you've laid fingers back down. It is, however, not self-leveling and a little trickier to use. It's also a thermoset epoxy, so you've got to have somewhere to bake it (~10m @ 90c).

in my search i have found many different types of adhesive but they all have their draw backs, but once i found out i had to do the soldering before the glue it worked pretty easy.
 
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@security0001. Did you ever make a video of this repair. Love to see it.
i don't recall as that was almost 10 years ago but i may have only taken pictures. i did the two types of edge repairs and the picture shows the one type but the other is wrapping around the board and when doing that type i use a tiny crescent wrench and push it tightly over the end of the pcb and leave it on until i solder and that way it will keep it super tight and perfectly flat and the solder won't wick underneath the copper.
 
@security0001. Did you ever make a video of this repair. Love to see it.

@ArcadeJason released a video about 4 years ago demonstrating a few different techniques:

I also made a video recently where I repaired a burnt-up edge connector with copper tape, but I didn't have to fill in any putting, etc.:
 
Ok thanks guys. I have 2 Pole Position PCB's where I need to repair the edge connectors. It's my next skill I need to learn in this hobby.
 
This was my first time doing it myself, and I think it turned out pretty ok. It works, at the very least!
 
Nothing wrong with the copper tape method for typical power pins, where it's the same on both sides of the edge connector. Attached are some pics of what I do for those times where it's not the same.

I drew the 0.156" edge connector pads and did a toner transfer onto Pyralux (copper clad polyimide) then etched/tinned it. I cut it to be wide enough to solder to the adjacent pins, soldered one side and pulled it tight over the edge of the board, then soldered the other side (using Kapton tape to prevent the solder from flowing down the pads). I left a bit of a tail on the replacement pad for a wire to be soldered to.

The pics are from a JAMMA switcher I repaired a few years ago where someone tried to solder to the video GND pin, but ended up completely lifting the pad. The other side of the JAMMA connector isn't GND, so I couldn't just use copper tape.

DogP
 

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