Parting out games, at what point does it become acceptable?

I have purchased well over 100 LV2000...both the original and the smaller units. I also bought the assemble them yourself ones too...we may have a couple fail over the years...usually in the first tests...and just toss them...they are so cheap...and they have had a wonderful track record...thats why I endorse his board. the board can fail also, if the monitor has issues...don't forget that!
 
Ill help this thread along.....

parting out games is fine if they were made after 1986.
 
It's funny this thread was revived yesterday. I sold my tempest yesterday to a guy who is turning into a 60-in-1 multi in a fire department... the burrrrn... the burnnn... I think waiting 3 years to find a buyer was long enough.
 
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Did someone put a gun to your head and make you buy that Tempest? You could have let someone else get it that wanted to save it. You knew what you were getting yourself in to when you bought the game.

That said, games should only be parted when the cabinet is really wasted. Rarity should not be a factor. There are TONS of parts floating around, especially thanks to the mulitcade idiots and the greedy klovers, and the greedy klovers who are the multicade idiots.

If I didn't take that tempest for free, mind you, it would have been buried under a parking lot like the pile of monitors I couldn't save at the time. I'm just wondering now how many of those could have been color vectors. I didn't know how to spot the difference at the time.
 
I have/had 5 - 10x more converted to be brought back original or minimum made into fpga/original cabinets than part worthy cabs. The two cabinets I have parted, an Asteroids and an Omega race, cabs were screwed, were missing many parts themselves already and I could make two of my personal cabinets whole plus help a few others in the process.

I have a couple complete cabinets (time pilot and thief) where the cabinets are trashed but will just wait till a donor cabinet comes along vs part them out. Anyone have a nice thief cabinet?

So I would say it is probably never worth parting out complete cabinets because a replacement cabinet that was converted is likely to be found or you can have one made. If it isn't a game I was interested in saving or it couldn't help me complete a game I already have, I wouldn't have picked it up in the first place.
 
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To be fair, ArcRevival was not active at the time this thread originated - and the topic falls directly into his wheelhouse.

He's always chiming in on partouts, multicades, and other general douchebaggery here - it's kinda his M.O. (which we ALL are aware of) - and I, for one, respect him for it. If nothing else, he's consistent. Him commenting on the thread is no surprise (or shouldn't be).

Like others have said many times, do what you want with your stuff - but don't get all butthurt when someone calls you out. Not sure if you've noticed, but that's how society works - be shitty and get shit on in return. If you shoot up a school or rape somebody, society ostracizes you - just like the preservationists do to game parters and multicaders here, on this PRESERVATION site :D
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WANTED!!! : Robotron Cabaret - NeoSaveMasta - SD->MH Adapter & Spinner Panel
 
Regarding the LV2000's, I regularly call out the fact that the LV2000's use underrated regulators that can and do fail, and that the other designs from Mark Spaeth and others use the beefier TO-220 1-amp regulators, which don't blow when shorted. See here for multiple examples:

The whole point of the LV6100 is to die gracefully (if at all) when shorted to save the more expensive parts on the board.

With the original circuits, if (when) the zeners blow, all regulation goes away and the MPSUs can be overvoltaged and blow (often taking the TO3s with them).

Exploded LV6100s due to bigger monitor problems aren't a failure in the design, nor necessarily a bad thing...
 
The whole point of the LV6100 is to die gracefully (if at all) when shorted to save the more expensive parts on the board.

With the original circuits, if (when) the zeners blow, all regulation goes away and the MPSUs can be overvoltaged and blow (often taking the TO3s with them).

Exploded LV6100s due to bigger monitor problems aren't a failure in the design, nor necessarily a bad thing...


Agreed 100%.

To clarify, I've never seen one of your LV6100's fail (which is why I recommend them, and prefer to use them over the LV2000's, which I have a pile of on my bench waiting to go back to Jeff. All with melted positive regulators.)

The LV2000's melt and short when overloaded. Your LV6100's don't.
 
If no one parted out a cab, then how would any of us complete our projects?

Oh wait, we could buy remanufactured parts from RAM Controls. :rolleyes:
 
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