Particle Board Corner Repair II

Phetishboy

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This one is on a dedicated Nintendo Vs. cabinet.

Corner was busted right off. I screwed 2 screws into the cab side edge-on and tried to sink them in deep enough to be below the slot cutter blade, but far enough out to add structural strength. After that I crafted a mold from scrap plexi and foil tape. I used the other corner, which was still intact, to create my curve in the outside mold piece. That acted as a guide when it was time to sand down the 90 degree corner. Always a good idea to make the bondo thicker than you need, then sand it down to size and shape. Thought I had a before pic, but I can't find it. Oh well, just imagine that the first pic (not pictured) is the corner busted off and all that remains is jagged particle board.

DSC00006.jpg

DSC00045.jpg
 
Looks great! Can't even tell. Its amazing what looks like a simple repair is so time consuming. People who've never done this or automotive body work have no idea why repairs cost so much money.
 
Dumb question perhaps, but since you do some pretty bad@$$ restores, Phet (can I call you Phet? I heard that might not be cool :) ), what slot-cutting bit/bearings do you use/recommend? Not sure what to get. Is there a FAQ I'm missing somewhere? Thanks in advance.
 
Dumb question perhaps, but since you do some pretty bad@$$ restores, Phet (can I call you Phet? I heard that might not be cool :) ), what slot-cutting bit/bearings do you use/recommend? Not sure what to get. Is there a FAQ I'm missing somewhere? Thanks in advance.

Yeah there are a few threads on it. I got mine from MCS Woodworking Supplies but you can get them many places. I think 1/16 is the correct blade width, but it may be 1/32". What you are looking for is an apparatus that looks like a chinese star held perpendicular to a machined shaft with a bearing at the end. Shaft-star-bearing, in that order. Make sure you get the right shaft diameter, as some routers have 1/4" collets, some 3/8" and some 1/2". (Mine accepts all 3). A collet is basically like the chuck on a drill. Oh and make sure you have a router or you can't check collet size. Or use the slot cutter for that matter. (Unless you can spin it betwixt your fingers really really fast.)
 
Yeah there are a few threads on it. I got mine from MCS Woodworking Supplies but you can get them many places. I think 1/16 is the correct blade width, but it may be 1/32". What you are looking for is an apparatus that looks like a chinese star held perpendicular to a machined shaft with a bearing at the end. Shaft-star-bearing, in that order. Make sure you get the right shaft diameter, as some routers have 1/4" collets, some 3/8" and some 1/2". (Mine accepts all 3). A collet is basically like the chuck on a drill. Oh and make sure you have a router or you can't check collet size. Or use the slot cutter for that matter. (Unless you can spin it betwixt your fingers really really fast.)

Same that I have -

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html#anchor_slotct3w

1/16" slot cutter (for 3/4" t-molding). Get the 1/2" shank if your router allows. If not, the 1/4" will also do, the 1/2" is just a bit beefier.
 
I've got a Craftsman 1-1/2HP router with a 1/4" collet. I've seen slot cutter sets (with the bearing) at Lowe's, but only down to 1/8" slot width, so I knew that was too big. Wasn't sure if I needed a 1/16" or 1/32". Figured I'd have to get it from a woodworking place. Thanks for the link and tips!
 
Oh I'm so glad I found this. This repair is exactly what I'm up against.
I like this idea, but I'm so bad with putty type material, so I was thinking...

What if I sawed the corner straight and clean, then with a piece of scrap, traced the good corner, then joined it to the cut using a biscuit jointer, dowels, or even a slot cut (like how cabinet doors are assembled)?
 
Oh I'm so glad I found this. This repair is exactly what I'm up against.
I like this idea, but I'm so bad with putty type material, so I was thinking...

What if I sawed the corner straight and clean, then with a piece of scrap, traced the good corner, then joined it to the cut using a biscuit jointer, dowels, or even a slot cut (like how cabinet doors are assembled)?

...then you'd be repairing your corner the PROPER way...

;)
 
Oh I'm so glad I found this. This repair is exactly what I'm up against.
I like this idea, but I'm so bad with putty type material, so I was thinking...

What if I sawed the corner straight and clean, then with a piece of scrap, traced the good corner, then joined it to the cut using a biscuit jointer, dowels, or even a slot cut (like how cabinet doors are assembled)?

I did that in this thread.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=165517

Sorry Phet. ;)
 
Looks very good Phet, the bottom base is coming appart like some of the Nintendo cabs i have. Do you just putty those up and sand it down? Or do you replace the entire base?
 
Another great looking repair! Such a beat up cab. From the primed picture you would have no idea of the work that went into it. It just looks so perfect!
 
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