Paperboy questions

shardian

New member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
8,762
Reaction score
8
Location
Culloden, West Virginia
Just got a paperboy, and I had some questions.

1. Game powers up to blank white screen. CPU board LED light on, Video board LED off. Game has an added switcher that only supplies +5 to the CPU. Where should I start? I've seen exact cases like this in other threads here, but they were left unresolved.

2. I was poking around in the cab and noticed the marquee light assembly was unplugged from the power brick in the bottom. I plugged it in and flipped the switch. I saw a spark down by the base of the transformer, then everything went dark. I get zero life in the cab now. Checked the AC fuse that is in the power brick - the one you take the black cap off for. It appeared to be fine, though I need to officially test it. Is there a fuse somewhere else, or did I really eff something.

3. Regarding the steering assembly - it is loose and sloppy as hell. Suspecting something was broke, I took it out. It is in excellent shape mechanically. The slop appears to come from the mounting plate at the middle of the controller. It is held in place by, but not securely attached to either side of the controller. This appears to be the stock arrangement. It allows slight slop. Why? Is it suppose to be like that or is there something I am missing.
 
If you're not getting +5V to your video board, I would check to see what's happening on your A/R III. Check the unregulated voltages going to the A/R III from your transformer, and see what it is actually supplying to the video board (if anything). You may want to throw one of Bob's rebuild kits on that board.

With respect to the fuse, I'd give it an official test--sounds like a fuse may have gone extra crispy on you. While you're at it, go ahead and test the ballast (see what resistance you get across the two wires). If it's almost shorted, it's probably no good. You can test the tube and starter in another known working light fixture.

I'd have to look at my controller with regards to the slop you report..

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
3. Regarding the steering assembly - it is loose and sloppy as hell. Suspecting something was broke, I took it out. It is in excellent shape mechanically. The slop appears to come from the mounting plate at the middle of the controller. It is held in place by, but not securely attached to either side of the controller. This appears to be the stock arrangement. It allows slight slop. Why? Is it suppose to be like that or is there something I am missing.

I had an issue like this. Make sure the metal enclosure (the one all the gears are in) and the plate that sits on top of it are firmly connected. With the abuse this game took back in the day, these two pieces often broke apart. I had to have mine spot welded back together, just a bead toward each corner and it's rock solid now. Check out the attached picture for the two parts I'm referring to.
 

Attachments

  • paperboy controls.jpg
    paperboy controls.jpg
    82.3 KB · Views: 44
I had an issue like this. Make sure the metal enclosure (the one all the gears are in) and the plate that sits on top of it are firmly connected. With the abuse this game took back in the day, these two pieces often broke apart. I had to have mine spot welded back together, just a bead toward each corner and it's rock solid now. Check out the attached picture for the two parts I'm referring to.

Yep, that plate is not connected to that enclosure at all. I saw nowhere that it would have connected. I'll look a bit closer, and see if I can take the enclosure apart.
I remember seeing your thread, and will have to find it again. I'll bring it in to work and tack it to that enclosure either way.
 
Yep, that plate is not connected to that enclosure at all. I saw nowhere that it would have connected. I'll look a bit closer, and see if I can take the enclosure apart.
I remember seeing your thread, and will have to find it again. I'll bring it in to work and tack it to that enclosure either way.

That is precisely where my controller was broken. ShanMan was nice enough to weld it for me, and it is good as new. If you weld it, just make sure to make the bead small enough so it will sit flush in the CP hole.

Also, a lot of the parts can be found in Dave's SW Yoke Rebuild kit (RAM Controls). Use the build-a-rebuild deal he has over at BYOAC. Especially for the 5K pot - great deal! And his gears are fantastic - better than new.

Oh, and about the other issues. The only fuses on the Atari System II are the fuse under the cap that you checked, and the fuses in the fuse block on the power supply. Mine also has a switcher supplying power to the +5V only.

Do you still have a video board from the Championship Sprint? Swapping the video board to see what works would be the first place I would start.
 
Last edited:
Had our welder at work weld the plate back in place this morning. I should be good to go on that front now.

As for the rebuild kit thing, I see the thread. I'm wondering whether the outrun pots are the same as the paperboy pots. They are both B5k, and both have identical short shafts with the flat spot. Is it safe to assume they are indeed the same?

Another thing I am curious about is if the small gear that attaches to the pot is the same on both games. I noticed last night that the small gear on the outrun is slightly cracked.

If I could get all the pots and that gear for $20 shipped, that would be awesome!
 
I installed the paperboy controller again last night, and it still seems a bit wobbly. Is there always a certain amount of side to side play in these, or is something else likely busted? I think alot of the play is in the actual handlebars.
I suppose I'll take the cover off next and see what is under there.


I also spent some time last night poking around with a meter. All fuses tested good, so I suspected connectors. I recalled the spark I saw, and pulled the power brick up to look above and below. Turns out the spark was one of the molex pins in the voltage jumper plug pulling out. It looks a little burned though, so it must have been an on again, off again problem. I was able to push the wire and pin back up into the housing. The game is back to where it was electronically.

I also poured over the schematics for the video and ARIII.
Ar the J13 power input connector of the video board, the ARIII is supplying the proper +15V at pin 7, but there is no +5v at pins 5, 6, & 8. I poked around on the ARIII, and found voltages at every large 3300 cap.

So my question: which component on this board is responsible for the +5? I assume the Bob Roberts rebuild kit covers this.

And yet another question: why put in a +5 switcher and only run it to the cpu? Why not hack it into the J13 connector for the video board?
 
Originally I think Atari was just trying to use the ARIII, but when they found out that wasn't going to cut it they threw in the switcher. From the manual, the original switcher is very low current, like 3A, and isn't really designed to drive both boards so I'd suggest an upgraded to your switcher. Later System 2 designs used a Switcher for +5VDC and a different board for amplifying audio.

Q5, LM305, is responsible for +5VDC on the ARIII.
 
Sounds like you need to just get a good switcher and wire that whole Paperboy to run off of it, why bother with the AR3? I have an extra 720 harness that might work. Or we can just test your PCB's in my setup just to see?

Wade
 
Have you tried using a Multimeter and testing for +5V on the ARIII?

Yep. I tested at the adjusting pot, the resistors around that pot, at L13 connector of video board. I didn't get anything at any of those places, but the +15v unregulated is present at L13. I'll have to spend more time on the schematics to figure out what and where is coming from the brick to feed the +5v regulating circuitry. I suppose I need to verify it is getting the input.

I noticed the power input plug was slightly loose, but I tinkered with it with no different results. I'll check continuity on it this evening just to make double sure if I get a chance.
 
So my question: which component on this board is responsible for the +5? I assume the Bob Roberts rebuild kit covers this.

Originally I think Atari was just trying to use the ARIII, but when they found out that wasn't going to cut it they threw in the switcher. From the manual, the original switcher is very low current, like 3A, and isn't really designed to drive both boards so I'd suggest an upgraded to your switcher. Later System 2 designs used a Switcher for +5VDC and a different board for amplifying audio.

The original 5V supply was analog, not a switcher. And all that is required is to put the new (replacement) switcher in line with the old analog supply (feeding P20 on the CPU).

That is of course assuming that your ARIII is working correctly. There really aren't many parts on the ARIII. And the only voltage feeding into it is the +10.3V unregulated, at J6 4, 5 and 6. Incidentally, those are the orange wires coming from the "Big Blue" cap in the cabinet floor. Have you looked at Big Blue?
 
The original 5V supply was analog, not a switcher. And all that is required is to put the new (replacement) switcher in line with the old analog supply (feeding P20 on the CPU).

That is of course assuming that your ARIII is working correctly. There really aren't many parts on the ARIII. And the only voltage feeding into it is the +10.3V unregulated, at J6 4, 5 and 6. Incidentally, those are the orange wires coming from the "Big Blue" cap in the cabinet floor. Have you looked at Big Blue?

I haven't checked ol' big blue. I'm researching it now though. Is there a clear cut way of testing it with a DMM? I don't have a fancy capacitance meter.
 
What does the 10.3v test point on the ARIII read? I just fixed my paperboy today. 10.3v was reading 1.98v:confused::confused:

Replaced both big blues. Fired right up:D
 
Back
Top Bottom