Panzer Mechanical Restoration

OHEMIO

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Broke into the Panzer today (no keys). All looks in line. Ugh special bulb but I will not be designing a mod for this one. Took out the drum unit on the back door, broke it down and cleaned everything that I could switches, brass gears, drums. Riveted motors that I don't want to break down. Not that much oil on them anyhow. Also cleaned the explosion plexi.

I have two different bulbs both look automotive by the way. Does anyone know the call out for the two bulbs located inside the drum. Both are larger bayonet bases.

Also took out the score reels and tore one side down. Broke down both reels. Alcohol and small scrub brush to all the componets. Cleaned the reels themselves. Will have to buy a black paint pen as the ink in specs has come off. That paint pen will cure the issue.

I notice on my target glass I have a few spots were the frosting has been scratched. This is something that I know I'll see during game play...I'll have to figure out how to repair that. The lower glass on near the controls is cracked but worse rigged to stay on place. I may have this reproduced.

Original coin door start button is gone I'll be restoring that to the original button. Your typical 70's game not perfect but not terrible by any means. Will post the pictures that I took tomorrow night at some point.

OHEMIO
 
Panzer Restoration Photos

Here are some of the photo's that I snapped thus far during this restoration. The unit shown is the Cannon and Machine gun blast unit. The two pics are tear down pics of the score reels themselves.

Could not tear the motors on each drum down as they we're riveted and would of had to drill them out. So I cleaned up the brass gears the best I could without tearing them down.

Also don't know what the correct bulbs are for the cannon and machine gun drums however I'm convinced one of the two in there now is a car bulb??? Anyone whom has a Panzer and a manual if you could let me know the correct bulb call out I'd appreciate it.

 
Score Reel Bulb Issue

Well I have one that I never have been faced with before. This could be because this is more of an electronic game. I change all the bulbs and they're were at least three different numbers affiliated with the old bulbs. Figured #47's. Most burned out within the first five minutes.

My question is due to this being mostly electronic can I use 47's or is this a short?

OHEMIO
 
Panzer Attack Bulbs

I just looked at what I pulled out of mine:

1813 made in england - I'm guessing it's 28V

756 (14.4V Blown)

1847 (6.3V Blown)

The one that I believe should be used is a 1829 28V. The #47 at 6.3V is too low and that's why mine went poof. Going to order some of these from PBR.

On another note regarding my PM on calibration of the disc unit do you have anything on that? If not I may be ordering a manual.

Have a good Sunday sir.

OHEMIO
 
More Pics Panzer

Some pics of the game control unit. Pics before beginning the cleaning process. Note in Pic one missing spring on the left side. Essentially made one for this that I had on hand.



Once I pull the Panzer in I'll shoot more photos of the assembly cleaned. Have a good Sunday gentlemen.

OHEMIO

This pic is the of the photo disc which I used novus 1 then novus 2. The film is smashed between two pieces of acrylic/plexi glass. Projector bulb is shot ordered two of of Ebay for a reasonable price. All three projection lenses in this unit were cleaned as nothing would have shined through them. Switch also shown that rides on control disc.

 
the photo disc pretty much lines up with the HIT disc.. You have to fiddle with the leaf switch that makes the contact with the hit.. There is 2 or 3 screws that you have to undo on the leaf and you can slide the leaf alittle forward or backward or whatever to get the calibration.. It took me awhile to do it, but you do eventually get it

also make sure that the contacts on the hit dic are clean and the leaf is clean and tmaking contact with the hits
 
Panzer Update

Game is in my arcade...Much warmer down there.

Had to work on the joystick a bit. Trying to figure out what the contact switch is for directly behind the joystick. This is closed all the time and have a feeling it shouldn't be.

Bulbs have not arrived from the West Coast. Once bulbs arrive I'll calibrate this so game play is correct.

By the way the board with the projection disc can be adjusted too.

Seem to have lost my tank sound may be something I have to work on.

OHEMIO
 
No DFF projector bulbs yet...ugh

By the way not sure that the 28V bulbs are the way to go either. They're pretty dim. I see they're 14V maybe that's the ticket. May order some to try.

Thanks for the tip on the tank sound I'll check that tomorrow.

OHEMIO
 
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Panzer Update & Issues

Worked on the coin door for the Panzer. It was in pretty rough shape so I used my knock off dremmel to shine up all the chrome and the coin eject buttons. Used Meguires paint cleaner then carnuba wax to clean up the paint. Bought a minty NOS red Midway "Press" button from PBR. Before this upgrade they had a cheap momentary button where the door lock should be. The three tack welds on the left hand side of the interior door gave way so I had to drill through the door and add a machine screw unfortunately as my button would not have sat flush an could be the reason they removed the original to begin with.

Here are a few picks of the upgrade to the door...I don't have a before but I can tell you it looked crappy and dull.



A few additional issues have reared they're ugly head:

> The first being the game at times will not reset the score to zero. It'll bring it back to 100. I'm going to check gaps on the 1-9 reel to see if that's the issue.

> Also the "recruit" light is lit when I start the game but will not stay lit when game play begins. The consecutive lights all work past that point at the proper scoring levels. Seems to be a bit of a struggle when the switch is made through recruit, gunner, etc.

Luckyman I took a shot of two area's I may need help on.

> The first pic is the switch stack behind the joystick as I'm not sure it's set up properly.

> Also in the second picture this little electrical mystery is not in use and I'm wondering if it has to do with the flashing light at game over that I've seen on You Tube?



Any help you or anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated...

OHEMIO
 
> The first pic is the switch stack behind the joystick as I'm not sure it's set up properly.

yes its set up properly. Thats your leaf for the TANK sound when you move the stick it opens the leaf which in turns makes the tank sound

> Also in the second picture this little electrical mystery is not in use and I'm wondering if it has to do with the flashing light at game over that I've seen on You Tube?

that is a fuse holder. seems like the holders ends are crushed. Mine has a small 20A 32V fuse in it. Its for the yellow light. Its not to make the light blink like you seen on youtube. I think that guy is using a blinking bulb. I dont think there is anything on the machine that makes the light blink. Mine does not blink. Looks like someone by passed the fuse cause in the pic your 2 blu/yel wires are connected together
 
Update - Project Panzer

I appreciate the information.

Decided to take down the speaker for inspection as my tank sound was faint. Low and behold here is what I found. Cat litter or oil dry not sure. Glad the game does not smell like cat. Sound now is as clear as day.



I'm going to replace the bent fuse holder as I believe things are there for a reason. Replaced the white bulb for game over status with a CFL green from Lowes and man does it look sweet. These pictures do not do it justice...



When I went to check the machine gun firing connection after game over I accidentally bumped the black metal containing the DFF projector bulb and almost caught my hand on fire. Therefore I added a fan right to the housing to cool this can down. Hope to get more life out of the bulb this way too. Another bathroom fan from Lowes from Broan. Cut the plastic shroud and bent the plastic fins by hand (May use a little heat on them to make this more permanent) to pull the air over the bulb and can. Two holes with a metal drill. I mounted this with two 6-32 offset nuts, lock washers, and wing nuts. Will wire this in when I replace the power cord.



I have a issue that I may have to tear this down to prove this out. Note this picture above on the image disc someone marked a home with a paint marker. I spent about two hours last night trying to adjust this game for play unsuccessfully. There's an arrow on the top contact disc. I don't know if the hit points for the target are aligned properly. Have more investigation to do on this.

Like the SAMI I bet there's an alignment target and maybe that's what the yellow dot signifies but not sure.

I wasn't certain this would be a fun game to play but the adjustments are minimal and the targets are not so easy to hit. It's adjusted to 300 which is tough to reach. Once I'm adjusted I'll mod extended play.

OHEMIO
 
Very nice work on this one Mike..! I like the fan idea too. Do you have an infrared thermometer that you can test the temps out with? I bought one on sale at Harbor Freight for about $15-20 a few months ago. I like to check my coils with it.
The game looks cool. Have fun with it.
 
Very nice work on this one Mike..! I like the fan idea too. Do you have an infrared thermometer that you can test the temps out with? I bought one on sale at Harbor Freight for about $15-20 a few months ago. I like to check my coils with it.
The game looks cool. Have fun with it.

Have a little work left to do. Need to figure out the adjustment still but I'm getting close. Need to change the cord, and hard wire the fan in. May have to heat the plastic fan blades to permanently angle them for air flow.

Other than that the game is restored and it'll be onto the next restoration. Teetering between the Space Mission and the United 5 Star Ball Bowler. By the way good idea with the heat gun I may buy one this weekend. That would make life simple.

Thanks for commenting...

OHEMIO
 
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