Painting over laminate? Methods?

RussMyers

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Painting over laminate? Methods?

I am about to start sprucing up my Ghosts N Goblins. The sides of the cab are the GnG Purple, but they are definitely a laminate, not painted.

The art is a bit ripped up and I have a set of nice NOS art to put on after I refinish the sides. The laminate is generally in nice condition, not peeling at all, but it does have a few chips and gouges here and there, and on one side there are a lot of small holes drilled in it that I want to fill in and smooth down.

Can I rough up the laminate and paint over it? What is the best method to do this?

I would strongly prefer not to attempt to strip the laminate off - it's on there pretty good.

Help, please.

Thanks,

RussM
 
Painting over laminate? Methods?

I am about to start sprucing up my Ghosts N Goblins. The sides of the cab are the GnG Purple, but they are definitely a laminate, not painted.

The art is a bit ripped up and I have a set of nice NOS art to put on after I refinish the sides. The laminate is generally in nice condition, not peeling at all, but it does have a few chips and gouges here and there, and on one side there are a lot of small holes drilled in it that I want to fill in and smooth down.

Can I rough up the laminate and paint over it? What is the best method to do this?

I would strongly prefer not to attempt to strip the laminate off - it's on there pretty good.

Help, please.

Thanks,

RussM

Zinser oil-based primer. Sand the surface, apply the primer. Just read the cans, most primers will say "can use to prime laminate" or something to that effect.
 
Zinser oil-based primer. Sand the surface, apply the primer. Just read the cans, most primers will say "can use to prime laminate" or something to that effect.

Have you used this yourself?

On what cab and how were your results?

Then what over the primer? Oil-based semi-gloss enamel?

I leaning towards the ultra-fine foam roller application method.

I have paint codes for the GnG Purple, and I can also take the CPO in and have them color-match the purple in that.

Also, Phet, you wouldn't happen to have a spare black plastic bezel in your pile-o-crap for me? I have to replace that black foamcore POS on there now.

RM
 
Have you used this yourself?

On what cab and how were your results?

Then what over the primer? Oil-based semi-gloss enamel?

I leaning towards the ultra-fine foam roller application method.

I have paint codes for the GnG Purple, and I can also take the CPO in and have them color-match the purple in that.

Also, Phet, you wouldn't happen to have a spare black plastic bezel in your pile-o-crap for me? I have to replace that black foamcore POS on there now.

RM

Yes, I used this method on my first DKJR restore. The front kickplate had black laminate on it that would have been a bitch to remove, so I filled all gouges, sanded it with 220 and applied the oil-based primer. I then used latex paint over that, though if I did it again I would have used oil-based:

NintendoCab1.jpg

DKJRProgress.jpg

nintendocab3.jpg


As I told you before, dude on ebay has the generic plastic monitor bezels for $15 BIN.
 
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Yes, I used this method on my first DKJR restore. The front kickplate had black laminate on it that would have been a bitch to remove, so I filled all gouges, sanded it with 220 and applied the oil-based primer. I then used latex paint over that, though if I did it again I would have used oil-based:

NintendoCab1.jpg

DKJRProgress.jpg

nintendocab3.jpg


As I told you before, dude on ebay has the generic plastic monitor bezels for $15 BIN.

Great advice, thanks. That is the method I will use.

Sorry, forgot I had asked that question already. Do you have a link to the ebay auction?

Danke schoen.

RM
 
My last project was a paint-over-laminate joby, for a mate.
Not sure if you can get it in the US .. but in OZ .. I use 'Griplock' primer. Used specifically for said surfaces. Topcoated with Gloss Enamel using quality fine foam rollers.. 2 coats. (High Gloss is too much bling for me .. but mates choice)
Go semi-gloss or satin depending on your project requirements.
Absolute zero issues if applied correctly.
You may get the odd dust particle settling whilst drying... so try to have the area clean and wet the floors b4 painting if possible. Also try to have all the pieces your painting, drying standing up/vertical. Obvious less chance of dust settle. I also add 'terrabine' to the enamel to help speed up drying times.. especially in cold weather. Here's the painting method I utilise when using foam rollers. An old painter gave me some tips for use on home doors. Works a treat. I've taken this directly from one of my thread replies on an Aussie forum.

Quote:

"So... have ALOT of paper ready near the cabinet. Load up the roller, but no so much that when you lift it out of the tray, it oozes everywhere.

Then without reloading the roller at all (ie all in one hit)

1) Run the roller horizontally across the face of the painted surface from right to left or vice versa. Working down.

2) Then work diagonally from top corner to bottom opposite corner. Horizontal strokes again.

3) Then same as 2) but opposite corners.

The whole surface should be covered by now. If not.. repeat steps 1-3 where necessary. Then get rid of as much heavy paint as you can off the foam by rolling it out onto some sheets of paper near your job. We are trying to get the roller relatively dry-ish persay.

4) then "lay-off" (I said "run-off" on the diagram .. duh!) the surface by running your dry-ish roller in a single, light downward stroke from the top of the surface to the bottom. Lift, then move across, slightly overlapping and repeat. Helps to even out the paint over the surface for a mark and line free job.

Done. I've chucked in a pick of my bartop side using this above method. This was on fresh mdf, prepped with mdf primer first then 2 topcoats. (All lightly sanded between coats.)"



 
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Automotive hi-fill primer for me simply because its just soooo esy to sand flat and dries almost immediately which is probably the biggest advantage.



I had a water damaged laminate cab so I cut the base off to make it a mini.

281756837.jpg


*note swollen MDF*

281756834.jpg


Sanded down:

281756914.jpg


Few coats of primer:

281756918.jpg


Finished cab:

281839528.jpg


Automotive primer is very adhesive and strong. You can hardly scratch it with you fingernail once its dry. If you don't have spray gear then you can buy it in a can ready to go.

Just my 2c
 
Spacies method will give you a kick-ass finish. I gather no 'orange peel' effect via your way Spacies? Looks sweet. After all this time .. I still haven't used a gun. Will definately cross this line soon though. :)
 
Yep, zero orange peel mate. You need to make sure everything is pretty good though before you apply the final coats.

In fact waaayyy back in the early times on the automotive production line the guys in the paint department would roll, yes ROLL, on the primer on the bad areas like lead joins etc and block it back to get it smooth.

I have done that a few times as well to fix up rough areas of MDF.

Check this out:

Pulled off Gauntlet art:

344404345.jpg


Ripped off some MDF :( :

344404306.jpg


No worries, just roll on a ton of primer:

344404406.jpg


Block it smooth, paint it with some black satin and bingo! :

344854086.jpg


YOU WIN!
 
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