Painting Cabinet ???

jarnold007_1

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Ok painting my first cabinet what is the best type of finish?

SemiGloss
Gloss
Flat

Also can I roller it will it look good, or should I not even bother and invest in a spray gun and compressure?


Look forward to the Feedback!!!
 
Ok painting my first cabinet what is the best type of finish?

SemiGloss
Gloss
Flat

Also can I roller it will it look good, or should I not even bother and invest in a spray gun and compressure?


Look forward to the Feedback!!!

The search feature is your friend!
 
Ok painting my first cabinet what is the best type of finish?

SemiGloss
Gloss
Flat

Also can I roller it will it look good, or should I not even bother and invest in a spray gun and compressure?


Look forward to the Feedback!!!

Gloss or Flat will like look like ass. Semi gloss will look like most original painted surfaces (stenciled cabs) or satin usually works well for black.

Some use a roller, but if you have access to a compressor, borrow it and get an inexpensive spray gun.
 
Come on guys, let's be a loving and welcoming community. :)

There's some good info over here:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=52478

Also, a Google Search to get you started:
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy?hl=en&q=cabinet painting site:forums.arcade-museum.com

You might also want to look over at BYOAC forums, as they have a TON of information on painting cabs (usually bare MDF, not restorations over there).
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com

And the related Google Search to get you started:
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy?hl=en&q=cabinet painting site:forum.arcadecontrols.com
 
Come on guys, let's be a loving and welcoming community. :)

There's some good info over here:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=52478

Also, a Google Search to get you started:
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy?hl=en&q=cabinet painting site:forums.arcade-museum.com

You might also want to look over at BYOAC forums, as they have a TON of information on painting cabs (usually bare MDF, not restorations over there).
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com

And the related Google Search to get you started:
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy?hl=en&q=cabinet painting site:forum.arcadecontrols.com

Good info. I'll be doing my first paint job/cosmetic repairs soon, once the weather starts to turn again. My DK Junior deserves it.
 
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I rolled my DK jr. and used a paint code I found online. Really, I wasn't going for perfect, but after it had a few weeks to cure, it looked damn good. I used an oil base semi-gloss from Lowes. I'd spray it if I could, but really, the foam roller does a nice job.
 
To build a little on my post above, the general consensus I've seen over the years seems to echo joeycuda and jpkiller69's posts above. Basically:

Semi-gloss, with a smooth foam roller (apparently there are different ones available, cheaper brands, etc... you want the highest quality one with the tightest foam cell structure). Cut in corners, etc. with a foam brush.

Or, if the option presents, spray is apparently just a bit better (and closer to how the cabs were originally painted). That's a whole different discussion (thickness of paint, type of paint, compressor settings, yadda yadda), and has been covered many times at the BYOAC forums.
 
Semi-gloss, with a smooth foam roller (apparently there are different ones available, cheaper brands, etc... you want the highest quality one with the tightest foam cell structure). Cut in corners, etc. with a foam brush.

Or, if the option presents, spray is apparently just a bit better (and closer to how the cabs were originally painted). That's a whole different discussion (thickness of paint, type of paint, compressor settings, yadda yadda), and has been covered many times at the BYOAC forums.

I agree except that spraying is way better than rolling,if it is done right.
The best roll job will still have more texture than a spray job.
Spraying also is a lot quicker and easier than rolling.
I have done both and will never roll one again.
 
Thanks for the info!

I'm working a Joust to Multi Williams project with stenciling so I'm going for the spray technique. Found a spayer gun at home depot for $60 bucks. Found some nice paint specs that will come in handy. Just not sure on the spray type and amount it will be trial and error I guess!

QUOTE=EagleTG;1574387]To build a little on my post above, the general consensus I've seen over the years seems to echo joeycuda and jpkiller69's posts above. Basically:

Semi-gloss, with a smooth foam roller (apparently there are different ones available, cheaper brands, etc... you want the highest quality one with the tightest foam cell structure). Cut in corners, etc. with a foam brush.

Or, if the option presents, spray is apparently just a bit better (and closer to how the cabs were originally painted). That's a whole different discussion (thickness of paint, type of paint, compressor settings, yadda yadda), and has been covered many times at the BYOAC forums.[/QUOTE]
 
Do not use one of those power sprayer things. Those are crap for this type of job.
They spit the paint instead of spraying it. You would be better off rolling than using one of those.
Use a gravity feed HVLP gun and compressor like this one.
tcpg6600_red.JPG

I got mine at TCP Global online and it is a great gun and requires less CFM than the ones I found at Home Depot and other stores.
CFM is the main requirement for these guns.
The compressor needs at least to put out the minimum amount of CFM the gun needs.
 
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I purchased a TCP 10-piece hvlp set off of Amazon and so far I'm really impressed with the build quality! Now i'm just playing the warm-weather waiting game.

There's one issue though, I took off the nozzle cap and there was quite a bit of lubricating oil covering the unit ...I plan on thoroughly cleaning the gun (theres a link to a vid in my TMNT restore thread) before even attempting to use it. food for thought.


Do not use one of those power sprayer things. Those are crap for this type of job.
They spit the paint instead of spraying it. You would be better off rolling than using one of those.
Use a gravity feed HVLP gun and compressor like this one.
tcpg6600_red.JPG

I got mine at TCP Global online and it is a great gun and requires less CFM than the ones I found at Home Depot and other stores.
CFM is the main requirement for these guns.
The compressor needs at least to put out the minimum amount of CFM the gun needs.
 
I'm really happy with my gun.I bought it direct from TCP.
I ended up buying the blue gun with 1.8 tip and a 1.4 tip kit.
I like the fact that you can buy different size tip & needle sets to apply different materials.
You don't need to have separate guns for primer and base coats,unless you are doing a ton of painting and priming,then 2 guns is preferred. For hobby use one gun works just fine.
 
I've been using my old Binks Mach 1, gravity gun still gets the job done! while you were at Home Depot you getting the gun you should've picked up a quart of their rustolem simi gloss black enamel. thin with a little accetone and depending on your prep work she'll look like a new game, a few that I've done guys thought they were original . I usually get a quart a cab similar in size to the joust .. also nice is any gouges or scratches later are easielly touched up!

heres my Superman I did if it helps any,
http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx217/Rodder_Haven/Arcade/Curent Projects/Superman/
 
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