Paint What type to use?

Deadpool66

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Painting my showcase soon and was wondering what paint to use. I have already primed with oil based primer and now I would like to go to home depot and get the paint. I'm not sure which base to pick however.
 
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Painting my showcase soon and was wondering what paint to use. I have already primed with oil based primer and now I would like to go to home depot and get the paint. I'm not sure which base to pick however.

rustoleum oil based satin black
 
rustoleum oil based satin black

Great I only needed to know which base would hold up the best, color is going to be cosmic blue. Hopefully I can get this done with only two vacation days left. Thanks for the quick reply.
 
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I've never repainted one of my machines before but its something I'd like to do. What's the right steps in preparing the machine then actually painting the machine so that it looks new?
 
I've never repainted one of my machines before but its something I'd like to do. What's the right steps in preparing the machine then actually painting the machine so that it looks new?

How far are you willing to go with it?! heres some pics of my Superman game when I did it,

http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx217/Rodder_Haven/Arcade/Curent Projects/Superman/
I strip the cab bare, to the base particle board fix and major and some minot damage with fiberglass, some like the Ghostbusters cab I'm doing, I skim coat the surface areas in fiberglass resin and D/A or sand it smoth from there, minor imperfections are taken care of with plastic filler or body filler, bondo is just a brand name but I prefer Rage or the less expensive Dynalite, some areas I'll use Evercoats Metalglaze about (20.00 a quart right now) once it's ready I use either a regular laquer based automotive primer or a high build epoxy primer depends on the cab, lotta hand sanding and prep work finish with 400 grit and as stated before the rustolem satin black give the clasic perfect arcade finish. I have done a couple with acrylic enamel automotive paint and use a flatener to dull down the gloss, but thats not cheap so it depends on what your going for in your cab..
JJ
 
When you glassed the whole bottom of that cab. Did you use any mat and what kind of mat do you use?

I mean when your doing repairs are you using any heavy duty stuff like 18/08 or just just regular old chop strand?

You see liquid resin / glass mat makes the most since to me as opposed to using a straight body filler type of product.

I was also wondering how the west system / epoxy would do in a repair. That might be the ultimate way to do this kind of work and also would = overkill. Thoughts???

Anyway great info JJ and I haven't ran across anybody using liquid glass / resin on the forums yet. Not saying they haven't I just haven't read it yet or searched.

The less bondo the better... Chop strand that bitch! lol
 
How far are you willing to go with it?! heres some pics of my Superman game when I did it,

http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx217/Rodder_Haven/Arcade/Curent Projects/Superman/
I strip the cab bare, to the base particle board fix and major and some minot damage with fiberglass, some like the Ghostbusters cab I'm doing, I skim coat the surface areas in fiberglass resin and D/A or sand it smoth from there, minor imperfections are taken care of with plastic filler or body filler, bondo is just a brand name but I prefer Rage or the less expensive Dynalite, some areas I'll use Evercoats Metalglaze about (20.00 a quart right now) once it's ready I use either a regular laquer based automotive primer or a high build epoxy primer depends on the cab, lotta hand sanding and prep work finish with 400 grit and as stated before the rustolem satin black give the clasic perfect arcade finish. I have done a couple with acrylic enamel automotive paint and use a flatener to dull down the gloss, but thats not cheap so it depends on what your going for in your cab..
JJ

I have a zback cabinet that I removed the vinyl from and the particle board is very rough. I'm looking for something to skim coat with. Can you explain how you apply the fiberglass resin? Is there a particular type/brand you recommend? Do you have to lay the cabinet down to apply or can you apply while standing up?
 
When you glassed the whole bottom of that cab. Did you use any mat and what kind of mat do you use?

I mean when your doing repairs are you using any heavy duty stuff like 18/08 or just just regular old chop strand?

You see liquid resin / glass mat makes the most since to me as opposed to using a straight body filler type of product.

I was also wondering how the west system / epoxy would do in a repair. That might be the ultimate way to do this kind of work and also would = overkill. Thoughts???

Anyway great info JJ and I haven't ran across anybody using liquid glass / resin on the forums yet. Not saying they haven't I just haven't read it yet or searched.

The less bondo the better... Chop strand that bitch! lol
for the heavy repairs like where i had to completely remake a corner I'll shred up heavy matt soak it in the resin use aluminum tape to shape a corner with some tight or fine fiberglass cloth for the first layer the mat mix over it and then after that set's up I'll sand and shape then continue to build it up with layers of loose nit glass and mat then finish with the fine cloth again. Makes it nice and strong you can stand it on the corner bump it around etc.. layers like plwood make the strength, I can easiely cut for the T moulding, and best of all fiberglass loves wood!
not sure on the epoxy some thoughts I had just seemed overkill, honestly if a cabs that bad just cut new panels. I've got a Knights of the round cab that has some really weathered boars on the top and back that a friend recomended a2 part sprayable epoxy to seal and lock it down but he also said it was about 35 a quart with the catalyst and a gallon of glass is about 30 at home depot almost 60 at my local automotive paint store for the "bitchen " stuff thats the same chemical makeup as the evercoat brand home depot sells it just sets without the yellowing, if I was doing surfboards agin that would be perfect.. but these are repairs and getting painted..
 
I have a zback cabinet that I removed the vinyl from and the particle board is very rough. I'm looking for something to skim coat with. Can you explain how you apply the fiberglass resin? Is there a particular type/brand you recommend? Do you have to lay the cabinet down to apply or can you apply while standing up?

Is the particle board deteroating as in crubbling apart or is it still pretty solid and just has the million little pinholes/craters from the vinal, because if the wood itself is fine, another way to do it is to sand it all down lightly with 100grit and do as a friend of mine did he sprayed the outside of the cab with Minwax's high build polyurethane clear and let it sit for a day then scuffed it down and gave it another coat annd preped the cab with 220 grit filled the little stuff with body filler then used auto primer and painted it I havent tried it yet but he swears that it workes well to seal up the cab. I like to seal the tops thuroughly because it never fails that someone at somepoint is gonna set their drink up there or pile crap on it etc.
If your going to spray it then standing it up is fine but if your brushing it I'd lay her on her side to avoid runs they're no fun to sand out! I modified a cheap automotive creeper to hold the cab on itside so I can roll it around, space is an issue for me so this way I can work outside the garage. as far as a particular brand not really a most all the fiberglass resins you'll find are designed for automotive and marine where it gets pricey is when you get into speciality stuff like clear fine resin like for surfboards, and marine applications, and SMC resins in the automotive which will work on wood but are not really suited for it and definately not cost effective. the evercoat brand that home depot sells has been the least expensive and most universal that I've found so far, occasionally I'll find it for half price at the Habitat for Humanity outlet stores and at swapmeets.
get a plastic disposable container like what lunchmeats come in now wife saves them for leftovers and I steal them to mix glass in, after I'm done with it I can just give a twist and pull the dried resin out and use it for the next batch.. as far as mixin and applying it follow the directions on the container, you can apply with any cheap pain brush or even a paddle/ putty knife. when laying the cloth or matt you'll need to coat the area in resin lay your cloth or mat then coat with the resin untill you can basicly see through the cloth or mat, a good way is with a brust and gently tapping into it to get any air out and shape it etc.. if you play with it a bit you'll get the hang of it, not difficult and kinda fun to sculp things out of. one friend made a cup holder skull out of cardboard and resin glassed to the side of his cab, kinda funky but cool.. you can do whatever with it once you get used to it.
 
The bulk of the cabinet is solid just some of the particle board came off with the vinyl. I need to do some repairs around the bottom. If I get some time this weekend I may look through home depot and see what I can find.
 
the fiberglass and resin are all usually alongside the sandpaper and fillers etc.. if ya need any ideas advice whatever just mail me, I'll help however I can..
I'll try and do a whole thread with a better step by step of how I do things later and we can all go back and forth with ideas etc.. I have a couple perfect man cave arcade cabinet designs I'm working on that I'll hopefully ba able to start soon too which I think people will get a kick out of..
JJ
 
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