paint code for dk blue

partygt

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anyone have the home depot paint code for donkey kong blue? thanks
 
codes from lowes

here you go, I posted all this stuff a while back and everybody ignored it. here it is again.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=166840


Just some info to share, Im sure this has been posted but here it is again. Paint codes from Lowes for donky kong blue, orange and DK2 jumpman returns. I used Velspar Interior Satin Latex and used in a air sprayer used Floetrol Latex paint additive/thinner.
DK 1 blue #101-1,102-1Y8,203-12
DK Jr/3 orange #107-7,111-2Y3,113-6,116-31
DK 2 jumpan returns darker blue #101-7,102-2y21,113-17,217-2

I took actual colored parts from inside the cab and had them color match with the computor, for the DK2 I had them cross reference the Behr # for it I got from thisoldarcade.com
 
Here are the codes for Sherwin-Williams if you want to go that route. I had it color matched to an interior piece of the cab that was blue but not faded over time:
 

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This is the paint mix in Nason automotive paint (1st attached photo) for anybody who wants to go that way. Pricey to be sure ($23 for the paint and more for the clear + matte additive) but the results are amazing (2nd attached photo).


For more info, go here:

http://pac-maniac.com/donkeykongrestoration_page3.html
 

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If your cab was originally blue then you could remove one of the cp latch panels and take it to Sherwin Williams to color match it.
I did that and the color was dead on.
 
UPDATED COLOR CODE FOR DONKEY KONG (2025) -code for BEHR latex satin paint. This is a dead on color match from the inside of the cabinet piece. and way closer than the "Liquid Blue" people are saying to do.

The above Sherwin Williams code is invalid, they changed formulations and equipment. I took that formula in, and they couldn't do anything with it. (they weren't very nice about it, so I went to the HD)
Photo #3 is a quick and dirty repaint job of photo #1(Last owner really missed the mark with a powder blue??). The original coat had a bunch of orange peel that telegraphed through. As you can see, I just did a quick repaint in the basement with a roller. I'm working on another cabinet that I will spray and will look better.
 

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The Sherwin Williams Pro Classic is actually Acrylic Enamel and not a latex. It a superior paint to any latex. The surface is hard as a rock and smooth as a babies ass on my DK. I took a panel from behind the CP and they color matched it.
 
UPDATED COLOR CODE FOR DONKEY KONG (2025) -code for BEHR latex satin paint. This is a dead on color match from the inside of the cabinet piece. and way closer than the "Liquid Blue" people are saying to do.

The above Sherwin Williams code is invalid, they changed formulations and equipment. I took that formula in, and they couldn't do anything with it. (they weren't very nice about it, so I went to the HD)
Photo #3 is a quick and dirty repaint job of photo #1(Last owner really missed the mark with a powder blue??). The original coat had a bunch of orange peel that telegraphed through. As you can see, I just did a quick repaint in the basement with a roller. I'm working on another cabinet that I will spray and will look better.
Thank you! I used your can photo at HD today and the paint guy was able to just scan the barcode and pull it right from there. He made me a quart — I didn't need that much as I'm only doing some touch ups, but that's OK.

I wasn't entirely convinced it was a match at first but I put some on a couple areas as a test and it's extremely close. With some feathering and good finishing I think it will match perfectly. Or close enough in a dark arcade!

I found with my DK Jr, using the Behr Kumquat, that very light coats of paint followed by 1000 or 2000 grit sandpaper between, and then using 3000 grit after the final coat to take down the texture and blend the feathered area resulted in repairs that are pretty damn close in look and feel to the original finish. Not as durable as the original gelcoat for sure, but for use in my house I feel confident in it.
 
UPDATED COLOR CODE FOR DONKEY KONG (2025) -code for BEHR latex satin paint. This is a dead on color match from the inside of the cabinet piece. and way closer than the "Liquid Blue" people are saying to do.

The above Sherwin Williams code is invalid, they changed formulations and equipment. I took that formula in, and they couldn't do anything with it. (they weren't very nice about it, so I went to the HD)
Photo #3 is a quick and dirty repaint job of photo #1(Last owner really missed the mark with a powder blue??). The original coat had a bunch of orange peel that telegraphed through. As you can see, I just did a quick repaint in the basement with a roller. I'm working on another cabinet that I will spray and will look better.
I'm trying out your formula on a scrap piece to nail down the process. I'm applying several coats of gloss polyurethane over the top to see how close I can get to the original gel coat look. So far it looks amazing!
 

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I'm trying out your formula on a scrap piece to nail down the process. I'm applying several coats of gloss polyurethane over the top to see how close I can get to the original gel coat look. So far it looks amazing!
I used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and it's fantastic stuff. I took a cp latch panel in and they color matched it perfectly. To get the match,they only had the base color in acrylic enamel. I thinned it to the max and used floral. I had a 1.8 tip and it struggled to get the paint through consistently. I finally laid it on it's side and laid the paint down. It came out super smooth and dried rock hard. It looks pretty close to the original. I would never use regular latex on a cab,only acrylic water-based or oil based.
 
I'm trying out your formula on a scrap piece to nail down the process. I'm applying several coats of gloss polyurethane over the top to see how close I can get to the original gel coat look. So far it looks amazing!
I think polyurethane is a good choice. I used some laquer that I had and it gave the paint a slightly yellowish tinge. Still looks good, but would show up on a side to side comparison with an unfaded original.

So for anyone looking at this and considering latex I would avoid laquer. But if you don't spray something over the latex you can have problems with the side art stickers.

I took my cheap harbor freight gun that had the 1.8 tip and reamed it out to 2.0 and was able to get the latex to lay down nicely. I used windshield washer fluid to thin it down. It works way better than flowtrol on the Latex.
 
I used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and it's fantastic stuff. I took a cp latch panel in and they color matched it perfectly. To get the match,they only had the base color in acrylic enamel. I thinned it to the max and used floral. I had a 1.8 tip and it struggled to get the paint through consistently. I finally laid it on it's side and laid the paint down. It came out super smooth and dried rock hard. It looks pretty close to the original. I would never use regular latex on a cab,only acrylic water-based or oil based.
Ok. This paint sounds way better than latex. I asked my painter friend about it and he uses it on doors and trim on his high end houses. I guess it is more expensive than latex, but if the finish is better and saves money on a second coat....
Anyway. Do you have to apply a clearcoat after using the Pro Classic Acrylic? Because saving a spray step is a huge plus, and saves cost.
Also, did you try using a bigger tip, or why did you have to paint sideways?
Do you have a paint code for this paint? Thanks! -
 
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Ok. This paint sounds way better than latex. I asked my painter friend about it and he uses it on doors and trim on his high end houses. I guess it is more expensive than latex, but if the finish is better and saves money on a second coat....
Anyway. Do you have to apply a clearcoat after using the Pro Classic Acrylic? Because saving a spray step is a huge plus, and saves cost.
Also, did you try using a bigger tip, or why did you have to paint sideways?
Do you have a paint code for this paint? Thanks! -
I used the biggest tip I had and I thinned to the maximum I could. It just wouldn't spray consistently. I couldn't understand it because the tip was for heavier bases like primer. I couldn't make a pass without a run somewhere,and I know how to use a HVLP gun. So I.masked.one side off and laid.it down. I was able to turn up the flow and just flowed the paint. I was surprised at how smooth and hard the surface came out. I didn't clear coat it. It has a nice subdued sheen,like gel coat. I don't have ths code,it was probably 15 years ago. I tried the roller way,but just didn't like it.
 
I used the biggest tip I had and I thinned to the maximum I could. It just wouldn't spray consistently. I couldn't understand it because the tip was for heavier bases like primer. I couldn't make a pass without a run somewhere,and I know how to use a HVLP gun. So I.masked.one side off and laid.it down. I was able to turn up the flow and just flowed the paint. I was surprised at how smooth and hard the surface came out. I didn't clear coat it. It has a nice subdued sheen,like gel coat. I don't have ths code,it was probably 15 years ago. I tried the roller way,but just didn't like it.
Is your Sherwin Williams Pro Classic the formula from post #4?
 
Is your Sherwin Williams Pro Classic the formula from post #4?
Pretty sure that isn't the formula for Pro Classic. They told me this formula was obsolete when I checked at SW. Have you tried looking at the support piece inside and under the control panel? I pulled mine out and took it to get it color matched... But I would like the formula for Pro Classic, because this is probably the way to go on these.
 
I actually have some original color pieces I harvested from somewhere on the cab >20y ago to have matched back then, but Kelly Moore (now bankrupt) didn't do a great job on the match, and now planning a new refub. I have those swatches so unless someone has a reliable formula, I'll take another shot at matching.
 
Is your Sherwin Williams Pro Classic the formula from post #4?
I'm not sure,but I think that's regular latex. No matter what brand you use,make sure it's acrylic enamel and not latex. Auto paints are still a better choice,but you need to know what you're doing. They require reducer and hardner.
 
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