partygt
Active member
anyone have the home depot paint code for donkey kong blue? thanks
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Thank you! I used your can photo at HD today and the paint guy was able to just scan the barcode and pull it right from there. He made me a quart — I didn't need that much as I'm only doing some touch ups, but that's OK.UPDATED COLOR CODE FOR DONKEY KONG (2025) -code for BEHR latex satin paint. This is a dead on color match from the inside of the cabinet piece. and way closer than the "Liquid Blue" people are saying to do.
The above Sherwin Williams code is invalid, they changed formulations and equipment. I took that formula in, and they couldn't do anything with it. (they weren't very nice about it, so I went to the HD)
Photo #3 is a quick and dirty repaint job of photo #1(Last owner really missed the mark with a powder blue??). The original coat had a bunch of orange peel that telegraphed through. As you can see, I just did a quick repaint in the basement with a roller. I'm working on another cabinet that I will spray and will look better.
I'm trying out your formula on a scrap piece to nail down the process. I'm applying several coats of gloss polyurethane over the top to see how close I can get to the original gel coat look. So far it looks amazing!UPDATED COLOR CODE FOR DONKEY KONG (2025) -code for BEHR latex satin paint. This is a dead on color match from the inside of the cabinet piece. and way closer than the "Liquid Blue" people are saying to do.
The above Sherwin Williams code is invalid, they changed formulations and equipment. I took that formula in, and they couldn't do anything with it. (they weren't very nice about it, so I went to the HD)
Photo #3 is a quick and dirty repaint job of photo #1(Last owner really missed the mark with a powder blue??). The original coat had a bunch of orange peel that telegraphed through. As you can see, I just did a quick repaint in the basement with a roller. I'm working on another cabinet that I will spray and will look better.
I used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and it's fantastic stuff. I took a cp latch panel in and they color matched it perfectly. To get the match,they only had the base color in acrylic enamel. I thinned it to the max and used floral. I had a 1.8 tip and it struggled to get the paint through consistently. I finally laid it on it's side and laid the paint down. It came out super smooth and dried rock hard. It looks pretty close to the original. I would never use regular latex on a cab,only acrylic water-based or oil based.I'm trying out your formula on a scrap piece to nail down the process. I'm applying several coats of gloss polyurethane over the top to see how close I can get to the original gel coat look. So far it looks amazing!
I think polyurethane is a good choice. I used some laquer that I had and it gave the paint a slightly yellowish tinge. Still looks good, but would show up on a side to side comparison with an unfaded original.I'm trying out your formula on a scrap piece to nail down the process. I'm applying several coats of gloss polyurethane over the top to see how close I can get to the original gel coat look. So far it looks amazing!
Ok. This paint sounds way better than latex. I asked my painter friend about it and he uses it on doors and trim on his high end houses. I guess it is more expensive than latex, but if the finish is better and saves money on a second coat....I used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and it's fantastic stuff. I took a cp latch panel in and they color matched it perfectly. To get the match,they only had the base color in acrylic enamel. I thinned it to the max and used floral. I had a 1.8 tip and it struggled to get the paint through consistently. I finally laid it on it's side and laid the paint down. It came out super smooth and dried rock hard. It looks pretty close to the original. I would never use regular latex on a cab,only acrylic water-based or oil based.
I used the biggest tip I had and I thinned to the maximum I could. It just wouldn't spray consistently. I couldn't understand it because the tip was for heavier bases like primer. I couldn't make a pass without a run somewhere,and I know how to use a HVLP gun. So I.masked.one side off and laid.it down. I was able to turn up the flow and just flowed the paint. I was surprised at how smooth and hard the surface came out. I didn't clear coat it. It has a nice subdued sheen,like gel coat. I don't have ths code,it was probably 15 years ago. I tried the roller way,but just didn't like it.Ok. This paint sounds way better than latex. I asked my painter friend about it and he uses it on doors and trim on his high end houses. I guess it is more expensive than latex, but if the finish is better and saves money on a second coat....
Anyway. Do you have to apply a clearcoat after using the Pro Classic Acrylic? Because saving a spray step is a huge plus, and saves cost.
Also, did you try using a bigger tip, or why did you have to paint sideways?
Do you have a paint code for this paint? Thanks! -
Is your Sherwin Williams Pro Classic the formula from post #4?I used the biggest tip I had and I thinned to the maximum I could. It just wouldn't spray consistently. I couldn't understand it because the tip was for heavier bases like primer. I couldn't make a pass without a run somewhere,and I know how to use a HVLP gun. So I.masked.one side off and laid.it down. I was able to turn up the flow and just flowed the paint. I was surprised at how smooth and hard the surface came out. I didn't clear coat it. It has a nice subdued sheen,like gel coat. I don't have ths code,it was probably 15 years ago. I tried the roller way,but just didn't like it.
Pretty sure that isn't the formula for Pro Classic. They told me this formula was obsolete when I checked at SW. Have you tried looking at the support piece inside and under the control panel? I pulled mine out and took it to get it color matched... But I would like the formula for Pro Classic, because this is probably the way to go on these.Is your Sherwin Williams Pro Classic the formula from post #4?
I'm not sure,but I think that's regular latex. No matter what brand you use,make sure it's acrylic enamel and not latex. Auto paints are still a better choice,but you need to know what you're doing. They require reducer and hardner.Is your Sherwin Williams Pro Classic the formula from post #4?