Pad fell off voltage regulator ( don't think it's needed though?)

[888]

As you can see the last pad fell off on my voltage regulator. Seems like it shouldn't matter according to the schematics. Crazy thing is I'm not getting neck glow now, so that's why I'm asking to confirm with someone more knowledgeable, that pad shouldn't matter right?

You can even see the original called for voltage regulator doesn't even have that leg, but the 30130 was what was in mine so I replaced it with it.

I really appreciate someone just confirming that for me, thank you.

Thank you again.

 

[Azure Oz2]

You should be fine, you are correct for that package the pin is not used.
STR30130 Pinout (taller package version):
1. Common (-)
2. Base
3. Input
4. Output
5. Blank <- Your pin

Do not confuse this pinout with the other pic you posted of the STR3123 (shorter wider package version which uses the other pads holes in front of those you are using on the pcb). Pin 5 might not be used but the other pins are swapped:
1. Input (case)
2. Base
3. Common
4. Output
5. Blank

 

[mecha]

part of the reason it fell off is because it has nowhere to go. the heat concentrates in the pad. that said, I've never lost that pad before in my journeys.

many monitors that were serviced by distributors 20-30 years ago I'm baffled at how many solder pads they lost. or why people are using flux to replace capacitors. PNL in particular are butchers. I see their tags and know every single time I'm in for a ride trying to correct their mistakes first.

 

[888]

Ok I really appreciate it. Dammit that means I killed something then. Well at least I know it's not that. Thank you.

 

[Azure Oz2]

There are plenty of posts about troubleshooting and repairing this chassis.

You can measure resistance between the input and output pins. If it is low ohms it is shorted, if it is close to the value of the large wirewound resistor on the side (heatsink) then it might be ok. If it is shorted something could have taken in out, so just replacing it may only lead to blowing up the replacement unless you find the actual fault.

 

[888]

Thanks, gives me a good place to start. I did find some other posts too so I appreciate it. All part of the fun I'm learning, still being pretty new to this, but I'm enjoying it.

 

[Azure Oz2]

Be careful. You are playing with equipment operating at mains potential and several higher voltages from the EHT Transformer (up to around 25KV for the crt Anode) and for the other circuits involved in the crt voltages. Mistakes can be fatal to you and/or the equipment.

Make sure you are running the chassis through an isolation transformer whenever you are powering it (on the bench or in a cabinet).

 

[888]

Be careful. You are playing with equipment operating at mains potential and several higher voltages from the EHT Transformer (up to around 25KV for the crt Anode) and for the other circuits involved in the crt voltages. Mistakes can be fatal to you and/or the equipment.

Make sure you are running the chassis through an isolation transformer whenever you are powering it (on the bench or in a cabinet).

Yeah I understand and appreciate the concern. I've been working on crts for about a year but it was always simple things. Yoke alignments, a cap kit here and there nothing that really had me learning all the schematics.

So, I ended up putting back my old str30130, and now everything's working again. I know everyone's going to make sure I got it from arcadepartsrepair, which I did, so that's a big surprise.

STR30130 - Arcade Parts and Repair

STR30130 Sanken original NEW 130V voltage regulator Wells Gardner K7000 monitor chassis, we go to great lengths to inspect, test with meter & in circuit.

www.arcadepartsandrepair.com

I bought two, one for another monitor, so I'm probably going to try putting the other one in.

I also tested the one that was in there according to azure and it did test not shorted (same resistance across the two pins as the big wire bound resistor on the side there). So hmm.