Pacman cocktail restore

FedExin

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Donor 2011
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No sooner than I offload my Defender cocktail, I pick up a C+ or so Pacman cocktail.

My plans are to

- Replace all of the t-molding (1" smooth around the lid, 3/4" 'leather' around the CP's)
- Replace the glass for a painted model from PhoenixArcade (ordered)
- Respray the CP's
- Fill and repair any structural issues
- Install a new tube/monitor (Electrochrome 19" G07)
- Replace/refurbish hardware as needed

I'm going to leave the laminate sides alone, they look pretty good.

I started today by ripping out all of the t-molding around the lid, and taking off the glass. The smoked plexi looks to be in good shape and not warped.

I then moved onto the 1P CP. It was only being held on by two screws at the back, attached through the white diffuser plexi. The paint looks retouched with the CP overlay still on, as there was paint on the overlay, brushstrokes around the edges, and FUR sticking out of the paint in places. This calls for a respray!

Getting the grommet off the P1 joystick proved to be... difficult. More than my patience would allow today, so I cut the rubber of the first one off, and used some vise grips and much wd-40 to get the inner metal shroud off. I've ordered NOS grommets from Twisty Wrist, what the hell.

The overlays are original, so I set about removing the first one with some Ronsonol and a scraper. It came off without much fuss, and not much separation from the paint. Only one spot with color (a yellow dot) peeled back. Whew.
 

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- The centering grommets were a true pain to get off of the joysticks! But I managed to get both CP overlays off without much damage, and I'm ready to strip the old paint off.

- The t-molding was stapled in around the CP's, which was a surprise. I have all the replacement stock I need already, but all that will go in last.

- I'm headed off to a couple thrift stores this morning to look for donor tubes for my G07 (using http://www.junknet.net/donor-tvs as a guide.) I've also got a feeler out for a stock G07 replacement as well.

- I'll need to remove the rust from the piano hinge, but that will wait until I start the monitor swap.
 
Alllllright! I love restoring classic arcade machines, mostly for the learning experiences. And this restore has led me to a task I've never performed, tube swapping.

I placed an ad on my local craigslist, and lo and behold, someone has responded that they have a Monty Ward's Signature 2000 19" TV. In the same town I found this machine at!

Based on this thread's advice: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=116534
I was able to make a good judgement call.

I'll be picking it up later today here in rainy California. I really get a kick out of trying my hand at new skills.
 
Could you make a tutorial on how to get the CPO off without damaging it?

You bet!

For my process, I used Ronsonol lighter fluid (I was out of Goof-Off), a few new Gem razor blades, and a 3" clean metal putty knife.

The idea is to pick an edge or corner up with the razor by initially digging into the paint a bit, and then squirting some ronsonol under it and working it gently with the putty knife, in a gentle sawing motion almost parallel with the overlay. As soon as you feel it gum up, squirt some more fluid in there. You want to work from the center, or inside, of the overlay out to the sides. Using a razor for the whole thing wouldn't work; the super sharp edge will cut into the overlay way too quickly.

A 3" putty knife was just the right edge and width for this application. I used the same technique with a 10" blade and a heat gun to remove the wood grain laminate from my Defender cocktail.

The art really wanted to peel back around the edges (where there are yellow dots around the border!) and this was the greatest challenge; to keep the art from lifting, I had to work from the center of the overlay out.

The black background inevitably lifted in a few places, but I didn't worry about that until the entire overlay was off. A little black spray paint on the back filled that in, and once it's pressed against the newly painted CP, it should almost disappear.
 
Okay, I picked up my new donor TV, and it looks pretty good.

The necks match identically! Time to nut up and swap 'em.


I also picked up some different spray paint to try, Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy in black. I'm going to find an inconspicuous part to paint with this and see how the finish turns out, compared to my usual enamel paint.
 

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What luck the necks are the same! Congrats.

Would Goof-Off work the same?
 
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G07 Tube Swap

I'll post as much as I can on the tube swap, step by step.

I picked up a 19" Montgomery Ward Signature 2000 TV for $15 after posting an ad on craigslist. The official model number is JSA12675. This was noted previously as very likely to contain a matching tube for the G07.

I pulled off the back of the TV to expose the chassis and tube.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102991&stc=1&d=1332042141

The tube itself is a Goldstar type number A48KMX02XX

Next was to separate the tube from the chassis. I discharged the monitor (long, thin flat bladed screwdriver with a long alligator clip attached from it to the metal frame, slid under the anode cap until the snapping stops. Arm behind my back.) and pulled off the neck board. At this point I took note of the ring and yoke. There are two screws to loosen.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102992&stc=1&d=1332042141
 

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After some gentle wiggling, the convergence rings came off, then the yoke, leaving a bare neck. The yoke had some extra glue at the 3 pads keeping it from tapping into the tube. You can see the glue and two of the pads in the pic below. Take it slow!
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102993&d=1332042880

All that was left was to remove the chassis from the frame, and then the tube. There are only 4 bolts, one at each corner.

I repeated the process for the G07, until I had it out. There is an extra metal shroud around the tube, and a grounding strap that can both be swapped over to the donor tube.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102994&stc=1&d=1332043223

Here is a better view of the grounding strap, and the tabs that hold the shroud on. The tabs simply fold back and the shroud pops off. The tabs can then slip off the tube frame and onto the donor tube's frame.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102995&stc=1&d=1332043332

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102996&stc=1&d=1332043369

The tabs slip right on, as well as the grounding strap!

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102997&stc=1&d=1332043453
 

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I placed the G07 shroud on, and placed the donor tube into its' new home. I slipped the G07 yoke on, gently tightened, and then the original rings as well. After making sure they were in place correctly, I tightened them a bit more. I plugged in the neck board and the rest of the wires, placed it back in the machine, made sure it was set to test mode, and fired it up!

I got the grid pattern I was looking for, although not nearly converged.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102998&stc=1&d=1332043963

After some time playing with the convergence rings, I managed to get it to this point:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102999&stc=1&d=1332044137

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103000&stc=1&d=1332044137
 

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The screen is a little jittery at the top and bottom, and the convergence is perfect in the middle, showing blue at the top, and a peek of red at the bottom. It also runs off the screen a bit but...

It works!
attachment.php


I'm stoked to have gotten at least this far. I need to degauss it (without a degaussing tool.) and probably re-cap it. Off to the monitor help section....
 

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make sure to replace the flyback too...G07s are famous for catastrophically puking the flybacks.....Id do the HOT and Regulator and width coil as well...hell just buy bob roberts super deluxe G07 kit :)
 
make sure to replace the flyback too...G07s are famous for catastrophically puking the flybacks.....Id do the HOT and Regulator and width coil as well...hell just buy bob roberts super deluxe G07 kit :)

Agreed! For the extra few bucks of buying the deluxe kit, you will save yourself hours of work at some later date. Kinda like tearing down a worn out engine to replace the piston rings but not bothering with the $15 worth of bearings. If one is worn out the other is nearly as much so and I hate pulling the same engine (chassis) twice for something I could have done the first time for a couple extra bucks while I was already that deep in the work.
 
make sure to replace the flyback too...G07s are famous for catastrophically puking the flybacks.....Id do the HOT and Regulator and width coil as well...hell just buy bob roberts super deluxe G07 kit :)

You're right. I'd like to have this monitor rock solid for another 30 years. I've ordered the Deluxe repair kit from Bob, I'll mess with the convergence more after I install the kit. I've never replaced a flyback, that should be interesting too...
 
Great thread. Thanks for taking the time to post all of this information and images.
 
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