mecha
Well-known member
they hold charge. for days. ask me how I know. lol
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
pacman cocktail playing blind after blown fuse.
- Thread starter msdstc
- Start date
msdstc
Active member
so is it possible it's not the flyback? Feels like I should replace it either way. It looks like the flybacks are for both the 19 and 13". I feel like it's 19, I could measure it, but it's pretty large.
mecha
Well-known member
it is 19" yes. the FBO can take the replacement flybacks but you have to do width cap mods to fix the shrunken width.
usually only once and i will appear and deliver anything that the game needs...
if the OP needs any help just ask as i am happy to help.
mecha
Well-known member
it's generally encouraged you replace the flyback along with the new caps. there's a select few tough guys on here that think that's a waste of money or something and that old flybacks don't blow up with new caps. they can, but for the effort you're going to make taking the chassis out to service it, wouldn't it make sense to just do it all right the first time and it continue to work for years?
plus the old flyback anode cups being total trash to handle is, in my opinion, reason enough to replace the flyback.
you may need a new HOT also, with the power obviously off, put meter on diode test, black probe to the monitor frame/copper heatsink wall (not the black one on voltage regulator side, as it's painted and insulated) and touch the red probe to the casing of the HOT. if it reads shorted or the numbers are low, it's bad and you'll need a new one. shorted HOT or bad flyback can blow F901, it's in my experience that fuse won't just blow for its amusement, it means something in the horizontal deflection section is bad.
msdstc
Active member
usually only once and i will appear and deliver anything that the game needs...
if the OP needs any help just ask as i am happy to help.
I need basically everything to reservice the chassis on this g07. I actually think I have a cap kit that I had ordered from before, but I need the 2 fuses on the chassis, the flyback, and the HOT, which I really know nothing about haha, but if you could link me to everything you think I should get to be safe, that would be a massive help!.
alright I'm going to give this a try. What should the reading be ideally?
mecha
Well-known member
not shorted?
msdstc
Active member
haha yeah I'm a total noob at this, how do you check this?
DarrenF
Well-known member
"Shorted" is electronics lingo to mean essentially "electrically connected directly together". A wire joining 2 points can be said to "short" those 2 points. You can check for "shorts" using resistance or continuity mode on a meter. They will read at or near 0 ohms. Sometimes transistors go bad such that they (internally) short 2 of their legs together. This is what is being suggested to check for.
Another way to check a transistor is to use "diode check mode". On your Fluke 107, I believe this shares with resistance mode (a greek omega symbol) and continuity test mode (several curved lines, indicating a beep). It's a diode symbol, which is an arrow head in a line with a perpendicular line across the tip of it the arrow's point. You'll probably need to press a button to cycle between those 3 modes. An indicator on the display should indicate which mode you're in.
In any case, you'll be checking pairs of legs of the 3-legged transistor for shorts (or for the forward bias voltage, if using diode-test mode).
Note that the transistor is usually removed from the circuit for this testing; there may be times they can be tested in-circuit, but that's beyond the scope of this discussion. Yes, de-solder the horizontal output transistor and pull it out to test it.
mecha
Well-known member
if you have a short between the casing of the transistor (collector) and the frame of the monitor (emitter), the transistor is bad. so it's at least a very simple test.
when we did it last weekend on a guy's "dead" G07 it registered something like 1000 on our student grade meters. the F901 and HOT were both good, it wound up being the C511 B+ filter cap was reading like 38 picofarads or something absurd. replacing just that cap got it running again. lol
when we did it last weekend on a guy's "dead" G07 it registered something like 1000 on our student grade meters. the F901 and HOT were both good, it wound up being the C511 B+ filter cap was reading like 38 picofarads or something absurd. replacing just that cap got it running again. lol
A-29951B Electrohome GO7 Flyback - Arcade Parts and Repair
Electrohome GO7 series 13" and 19" NEW flyback transformer. G07-CBO, G07-CAO and G07-FBO and many other applications that require this model of flyback.
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
1.25A 250V Axial leaded fuse 5x15mm fast blow - Arcade Parts and Repair
1.25A 250V Axial leaded fuse fast blow glass body cartridge fuse. GMA 2AG 5x15mm fast blow for monitor chassis and other use and Electrohome GO7.
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
3A 250V Axial leaded fuse 3AG fast blow - Arcade Parts and Repair
3A 250V Axial leaded fuse fast blow glass 6x30mm / 1/4"x1 1/4" 3AG fast blow for monitor chassis and other use. Electrohome G07 and other monitors F902 and Wells Gardner k4600 F601.
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
2SD870 (USE 2SD871) - Arcade Parts and Repair
2SD870 original NEW HOT high output transistor Used on monitor chassis such as G07 X01, Sanyo 20EZV Q902, Red Tent & other chassis Atari Disco monitor at Q902
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
here are the parts links you asked for.
msdstc
Active member
thanks so much everyone! Gonna order the parts and give this a sincere try. I'm just not great at soldering, but going to take my time. If I feel it's out of my league I'm going to send it out for a refurb.
