Pac-Man & Mrs. Pac-Man Pinball

iyouwas

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Hi everyone, my boss is giving me a non working Pac, and Mrs. Pac pinball.
Was wondering if there is anybody out there who can supply a little knowledge to me, and maybe help me troubleshoot it? I know it may need some parts to restore, and to make it come alive again. Am I looking at a money pit? Are these tables reliable? I really would like to have this piece. I'm a huge Pac Fan.

Thanks for any leads and advice!
Tom
 
is it all together and ready to fire up if so i say 1st thing is look at mpu there be a battery on it if the board is all rotted up like almost all ballys from this time a post a rotted board.at the bottom is where the battery was .i would buy a new board there 200 some thing with shipping marcos pinball sell them.if it not trashed we can go from there.it should flash 7 times.well post what it does. this will help alot to http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index.htm GOOD LUCK P.S should you want to TRASH OR PART OUT your game im interested in the transformer and board in the lower part of game like.THANKS bob
 

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Here are some pics of what I'm working with.
The MPU stays steady green, and the board on the left, on the door flashes 5 or 6 then goes out.

I know I'm missing some parts here, but if I knew what to replace, at least that would be a start.

Thanks for any help guys,,. I really appreciate it!

Tom
 

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The full shot is when I got it home before I cleaned it.
Very dirty.
 

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Here are some pics of what I'm working with.
The MPU stays steady green, and the board on the left, on the door flashes 5 or 6 then goes out.

I know I'm missing some parts here, but if I knew what to replace, at least that would be a start.

Thanks for any help guys,,. I really appreciate it!

Tom

The board on the left is the MPU. It's the one with the original battery still on it at the bottom (white cylindrical thing). Look for evidence of battery leakage and corrosion on and around that area. If you have alkali damage that will need to be repaired first. That battery has to go as well.

You can look here for diagnostic flash codes. You need to count the flashes and then work from there. Don't count the first flicker of the light then count the next flashes. The flash you don't get is where you start.

Scroll down to "The MPU Diagnostic LED Flash Sequences Explained."

http://www.beerorkid.com/pin/77-85 Bally/Part 2/index2.htm

If your 6821's (PIA) are socketed you can try swapping them to see if this changes the flash codes.
 
Cool. Very good info!
But the flash code link is Dead. I'm gonna check all socketed chips, and see what I find out. I am gonna post a new close up pic of the Mpu in a few minutes. See if everything is there. That particular board, was out of the machine when I got it, so there may be a problem here. The led on this board is steady on.
 
Actually it's not. Very uneven around the center number display. Has some weathered paint that's flaking off in places as well. After I get all boards, flippers, and all things basically electrical working strong 100%, I'd love to replace the playfield. Im just falling in love with it. Seems complete, and worthy of restoration. And with the help of everyone at KLOV, I'm betting this project just could come to fruition.
Thanks for the compliment though, and stay posted if you would like to see how things turn out here.
:)

Tom
 
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Well, green light is steady on, on the MPU.
The chip in the middle, at U10 is completely shot. Legs just fell off after attempting removal. I will try to hunt down replacements. Also, battery, (white cell) doesn't appear too look bad. No leakage,,,. But I was told that it's a time bomb. I will replace it. But with what?
 

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just cut the battery off its only to save high score.if you want that to work you can buy a aftermarket battery holder / pack and just solder in http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBH073 .i buy most of my pinball stuff from marcos http://www.marcospecialties.com/ or big daddy http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/bde_contents.htm .i have been pleased with both.hopefully you be able to get the legs from the chip out of the socket and or the socket isnt rotted just as bad .im glad your saving it.
 
Yes. In time I will definitely want the high score feature. But I don't want any more issues to arise.
So off it will go.
I am removing that chip in a little bit here. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the lead on parts and where to go.
I would like to buy the rail that holds the glass in on the front though,, that exposed glass there is a bit scary. Lol. Is there any other pinball out there that uses the same piece?
 
First thing I did, was remove the battery. Then, I did the MPU flicker test. And it was successful. Cleaned the chips, and replaced them back. Except the corroded U10. I got the first flash, then a short pause, then two more.
My chip at U10 is definitely bad, as pins are very corroded. U20 was suggested as bad as well.

I'm gonna hunt down these two socketed chips and see what we get.
 
Well, green light is steady on, on the MPU.
The chip in the middle, at U10 is completely shot. Legs just fell off after attempting removal. I will try to hunt down replacements. Also, battery, (white cell) doesn't appear too look bad. No leakage,,,. But I was told that it's a time bomb. I will replace it. But with what?


If you need any roms for this I can help you out.
 
Great plains electronics makes a nice kit for bally mpu boards. Plus his shipping is much better than marco. What part locations do you need to replace?
 
ok, so you need a mc6821p (u10) and a cd4502 or 14502 for U20

Here is a list that Great plains has for the mpu. (this is their corrosion repair kit instructions) but he has every part listed and a really nice diagram of the mpu

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Downloads/Bally_Battery_Corrosion_Kit.pdf

here is the 4502
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4502

here is the corrosion repair kit if needed
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY35-BA-KIT

he is out of stock on the 6821 though. you can use a 6820,6821,68a21,68b21 for this chip also. and if you hit a wall I have some I can sell.

And if you really hit a wall and are willing to take a short trip I'd be more than willing to walk you through the board repair procedure if you stop by my house.
 
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Swap the 6821's to rule out a socket or trace issue.
 
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