Pac Man Flood Restoration

this isn't as much a restore thread as it is a riveting medical mystery!

love all the details and pics. subscribed.

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G07 Rebuild

The G07 monitor and chassis have been sitting on the shelf mocking me since this project began. The new cap kit arrived. Time to clean up and rebuild the monitor.

I had already done a quick pre-clean on the chassis, but it was still too dirty and still had a harsh chemical smell to it. I did 2 more thorough scrubs before doing any soldering.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K94IGaIJSJGHnReLja_CSGxjlSysmfDZ/view?usp=sharing
uc


My plan was to do a standard G07 cap kit, replace the crusty old potentiometers, check the transistors, apply new heat sink compound as needed, and reflow all the big pin headers.

Capacitors to replace:

Component: Value/Rated Voltage
C905: 10µF, 250V
C523: 1µF, 160V
C408: 4.7µF, 50V
C504: 1µF, 50V
C411: 100µF, 160V
C521: 2200µF, 25V
C511: 47µF, 160V
C107: 10µF, 250V
C403: 100µF, 16V
C412: 3.3µF, 160V
C302: 220µF, 16V
C518: 220µF, 16V
C517: 100µF, 16V
C701: 100µF, 6.3V
C407: 4.7µF, 63V
C506: 33µF, 16V

The cap kit included replacements for all of these. It also included a new R908 (47k, 1/2W).

The G07 chassis is a single-sided board so its easy to work on. Even my cheap bulb-type desoldering tool made quick work of the capacitor removal. I made sure to take pictures of every cap before taking them out.

Although it wasn't going to be replaced, I removed the big C904 cap to make (even more) board scrubbing easier. While it was out, I measured it to be sure it was still good. It was.

Along with the cap kit, I splurged and bought $5 worth of pots to replace the Hfreq (5k), Vhold (10k), Vlin (200), and Vheight (200) potentiometers. The old ones looked long overdue for retirement:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sKclKu31hY3URyXL8cemjO61247pKkXl/view?usp=sharing
uc


With all these caps removed, it was obvious some of them had leaked:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_gaJPPauZzKucsTlHkZQ-jYipeGopF5u/view?usp=sharing
uc


I know some people just put their chassis in the dishwasher to clean them. I suppose this would work. But, I don't like the idea of this electrolyte residue splashing around the same space as my dishes.

I did one last cleaning with Simple Green and a toothbrush. I'm finally feeling like this board is clean enough. Most of the white residue is gone.

Next, I unsoldered the C1106 regulator transistor from the circuit to test. Its not shorted, but the gain (22) seems a little low. It may just be my tester. This is a high voltage, high wattage transistor and this little tester isn't really pushing it. Since its not shorted, I'm betting its fine:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1krO94DNmQMXy0GKlix-RXSWaJ8bb6bfU/view?usp=sharing
uc


The horizontal output transistor was next to test. This one showed up as a common cathode diode network (i.e. a transistor with no gain). Again, not shorted so probably OK. The gain of this transistor isn't that high anyway (like 8).
Pretty sure this little tester isn't testing with high enough voltage/current to accurately gauge the performance of these TV transistors. Back in it goes.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s2o6LKqHy5i1Y8yea3PjOCVNoj_SUJak/view?usp=sharing
uc


More Repair Notes:
1- The plastic inside horizontal width coil was broken. This means I cannot make adjustments if necessary. Its not deformed, so I'm going to leave it. If the picture width is OK it won't matter.
The flyback is visually good. I think these blow out pretty bad when they fail. I'm not gonna mess with this right now either.
2- I made sure to put new thermal paste on the heat-sinked transistors in the center of the board.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U2omJOJAh7Lmo7ZvLIN4uQ9vDIgfUmfP/view?usp=sharing
uc


R908 tested good, so I left the old one installed.
There's a Mod for G07's to fix curling problems. I didn't do this mod.
All the fuses were good.
The polarity of C302 shown on the solder side is wrong. The polarity shown on the parts side is correct. My advice is to take pictures of all caps before removal to ensure no polarity errors with the new ones.
I reflowed all the pin headers to avoid cold solder joint issues.

All done with the chassis!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rAziCLNFg_mAuVVyu4B8DJtHOv_WI9R3/view?usp=sharing
uc


On to the tube cleaning...

While I was content to spray/scrub the front of the screen and the frame, I just dry brushed the back and used a little compressed air. The aquadag looked good, and I DID NOT want to screw it up by cleaning too much. I also just gently brushed the yoke and neck. I'm OK with some grime here if I can prevent a cleaning related catastrophe.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12LapCq1_BwgVyureFGA1CGl4U24J2AJ-/view?usp=sharing
uc


Attaching the chassis completed the monitor. While it certainly LOOKS way better, I have no idea if it works. I don't have a monitor test rig (isolation transformer and test pattern generator), So I'm just going to wait until the cabinet is done and test it then.
 
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Control Panel

The control panel was in surprisingly good shape. No tears or melty places in the CPO. There is some wear/rust visible on the black metal areas, but its minor. Mostly just cleaning necessary here.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SUrx94BQk364nn8WijjO5Osh0KlRTIej/view?usp=sharing
uc


Underside:
Just dirt and some minor rust.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17fmezhO8XSYc6bXk3z0zRiyqbSCBuNOP/view?usp=sharing
uc


Separating the metal from the wood underneath showed more dried mud and the joystick housing which needed de-rusting. The dirt cleaned off pretty easily.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a3Ul0nT_VvCeli30jBnzZxqMoVr78gw7/view?usp=sharing
uc


Rusty parts work:
1- The joystick housing needed to be scraped and painted. I took off the harness and leaf swtiches and washed them separately (not shown).
2- Nice to see the grommet is still intact. Gonna clean it up and put it back in. I'll also order a spare or 2 for when this one finally gives up.
3,4- Wire brushing the metal pieces to de-rust
5- All pieces painted black and ready for re-assembly. I just used scotch brite and sandpaper to remove rust from the bolts. I wonder if I should've painted the corner carriage bolts yellow to match the CPO art? I guess I can always change the color later.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18Acu0Fa_zjGZCagF-uhmfdIBLSjiLSgo/view?usp=sharing
uc


I cleaned the CPO with a magic eraser and some Simple Green. It cleaned up great! Just a little color fading. More than good enough.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rh7z-LCzpEif-6TzJz3ncXPflDoTeYfa/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g3Ayv8CQXsbJYkjWfZmENuXZxLD5UMYZ/view?usp=sharing
uc


Cleaning the buttons and joystick:
The joystick just needed some scrubbing with scotch brite. The buttons just took some tedious q-tip cleaning. I chose to de-rust all the small pieces with some sandpaper (even the springs and washers). The line between authentic restoration and cheapo restoration is blurry sometimes.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUXNpKIfZfWkrol50fjzw1WL4NGEbNyN/view?usp=sharing
uc


Re-assembly and completion. Another major system component ready to bolt back on the cabinet.
I should note here that its possible to install the joystick housing in 180° wrong. I almost did it. I noticed the joystick wasn't straight and had to dis-assemble and turn it around.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FflOs4D9qC1uTbVepUsFrtQNs3RIht4t/view?usp=sharing
uc
 
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More Cab Cleanup

Getting back to the cabinet...

Since it was getting cold, I wanted to get the cab cleaned as well as possible and moved to the basement for the rest of the Winter.

The old T-molding was cracked and faded. Its interesting how yellow it became over the years. It was glued into the groove in places and needed to be cut out with the Dremel.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Fe4tSyK3NvbIIDJ4laQG6Io-ozSPn66N/view?usp=sharing
uc


Area behind the marquee:
1- Still muddy up in this area. I removed the light bulb bases and wiring and speaker to clean the surfaces here.
2- The speaker was still intact. The cone was not broken at all. It seemed fine to re-use. I just dry brushed the dirt off.
3- Rust on the speaker grill and bolts
4- Cleaned the rust off by sandblasting.
5- The spray paint I used was a little too shiny, but it will be out of sight so I'm OK with it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wj2EsTyApm1c2KWxwD77uNo9N82SSvOq/view?usp=sharing
uc


At this point, I removed the coin door to do more (gentle) external cab cleaning. The front and left sides looked really good. The right side was alot more damaged and the paint was just hanging on.

Not sure if I should re-do the right side artwork or just touch it up and clear poly over it. There's a big piece of tape stuck to as well. No way to remove it without taking the paint too. I want to save it. I'll probably spend the winter figuring out what to do.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dyrdCc_-spLGz6RvDDNe-rpJSTXUc0mn/view?usp=sharing
uc


The speaker shelf was very weak from the water exposure. I felt this would probably be OK to save since it has no structural significance to the cabinet. Also, its normally out-of-sight. I decided to just brush glue over the flaking areas and paint it black. Before painting, I made sure to scrub out all of this area and any remaining dirty places in the back.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16QIBIGG7kjpJEKv9YnNPHnWPe3Rzqvus/view?usp=sharing
uc


Final steps here were to clean the wires and bulb bases and replace the components. I was able to clean and save the cabinet serial# label.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ROO7Ar5C230FCmaFSxCBcJb2_O-tPAM/view?usp=sharing
uc


After this was all done, I moved the empty cabinet into the basement where it is alot warmer to work.
 
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Re-Assembly 1

With the wood working mostly done (I still have to make a new back door), I was feeling eager to put this machine back together. Painting can wait a few weeks/months till spring.

I placed the power panel back in and screwed it down. The new mounting screws and washers were close matches to the old rusted ones that were too far gone to re-use.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17vJVQMtePr-woigZJ_wZEet4xUMKz5B2/view?usp=sharing
uc


Re-mounting all the cable tie-downs and board holders.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F8b9RFJrjJHGEmFqKqJVn2rlTh8Qk0iQ/view?usp=sharing
uc


Door Switch:
1- The crimped on plugs attached to the wires here were frayed and loose.
2- New crimped on plugs
3- Re-attached the door switch cover
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mcQz6nfzzY3-vXCkXG_0duqnZhWVgGew/view?usp=sharing
uc


I put the marquee lights in and ran a power test. These are 60W equivalent LED bulbs. Hot spotting is visible behind the marquee. I may go with 45W (or less) to make the backlight seem more uniform.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AA7QSlNBpHryGcNjCYuxO5swqeUsg2WD/view?usp=sharing
uc


PCB re-installation. I put the RF board back in too. It will be the first thing removed if I have problems.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12IW-9qIHYt5EylliDXq_aAlRZ1ZnZjG-/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GYjT0YVdmCkrlF0n7utN19b-SKNfkXTs/view?usp=sharing
uc


I used 1/4" foam window seal to replace the foam under the top edge of the control panel. The control panel fits snugly and does not rattle around when I move the joystick.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fZR6Xmyp7V73Tuz_VaWNrFNajyEmv_u1/view?usp=sharing
uc


Getting close to the finish. Down to just cleaning and refurbishing the coin door now. I can't put the monitor back in until I re-install the thin wood partition that separates it from the coin door area; and I would rather have the coin door done before I put the partition in.
 
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Coin Door

Not sure why I was dreading the coin door work. Maybe because I knew it would involve a lot of tedious cleaning. I put it off as long as I could.

The door isn't missing any pieces. Its just dirty and rusty.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oEXxGA9nclrPRvxcjop7gkF67W3JWIxN/view?usp=sharing
uc


20129 plays
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KSGa_khmMYYdGFFGxrVUxqkJPEwOPKZo/view?usp=sharing
uc


No backlights on the $0.25 signs. I think this is correct for Pac-Man. Looks like the door could be modded easily to light the signs if desired.

All the parts and the wire harness were removed. Some would need de-rusting.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18VapfLWkpUxjOzx2icpni8dXwIn2q8VV/view?usp=sharing
uc


The wire harness was cleaned like all the other wires in this project (SG+toothbrush). I used the Dremel with the wire brush attachment for all the detail work on the shiny parts. I sandblasted the $0.25 sign holders (these were later spray painted black before re-assembly).
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yR0EEqvIDmBOwM-omxtxxXvvA0aBKi5o/view?usp=sharing
uc


I carefully cleaned the front of the $0.25 signs with glass cleaner and stabilized the printing by spraying triple thick on the back. The printing was fragile and flaky, but the triple thick should make it safe.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RjOco1N2U5XSvbpTui3c36ANFTbGL6Gp/view?usp=sharing
uc


With all the hardware removed, I was able to do some spot de-rusting on the frame and back of the door with the Dremel wire brush. The Dremel made it possible to get most of the rust out of the coin returns.
Since the rust wasn't too bad, I didn't have to completely strip and repaint the door and frame. This made it possible to preserve their original bumpy texture.

I masked off the Midway and vibration switch labels before painting
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-oJCiWv8V8IBwlq53GLa5YkY68omXI5A/view?usp=sharing
uc


I just did a few light coats with Rustoleum black satin and left all the pieces to dry overnight.
 
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First Power-Up

Even though the coin door was still drying and disassembled, I couldn't resist trying to power up the PCB for the first time. I still hadn't re-installed the monitor either.

I attached the coin door wire harness so I could coin up.

No smoke when I turned it on. I heard a hum from the speaker. Then, this happened:
https://youtu.be/D0twwxntSXs


Also, Happy New Year to everyone at KLOV!
 
Monitor Installtion

With the PCB seemingly working fine, I decided to try the monitor re-install next:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oYg3MAmWFMoo_UPcDB5X9iHcDJcLtrgU/view?usp=sharing
uc


This was the first time I had powered up this monitor. When I pushed the switch, I was very relieved to hear the crackle of high-voltage and see orange neck glow.

A very garbled nonsense image appeared on the screen. After fiddling with the new pots for a few minutes, I started to see the familiar ghosts, maze, and score in the rolling image.

After a little more adjustment, I was able to almost match the image to the existing burn. Totally stable. Looked great!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O6iAezY7IOmqd5hiUL45fmbphGLxRdQD/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMnI0jXHZN4

I'm better at Pac-Man than this. Not good at holding a phone while playing.

I immediately noticed the old reliable patterns weren't working. I remembered the 6H prom came up as "pacmod: Pac-Man (Midway, harder)" when I read it.

Since I had burned new EPROMS in case the old ones didn't work, I had spares that were the original program version. By replacing 6E and 6H, I was able to roll back to a version where the patterns worked again.

Total success so far. Even the joystick feels OK (maybe 'up' may need a little adjustment). More cabinet work to go.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IFOxpklwteG9mIbW_PCKUVDZyfuGN1l9/view?usp=sharing
uc
 
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Images?

I was about to make an update post, when I noticed it seemed as though alot of the images I've embedded in this thread are not showing up (especially page #3).

Not sure why. Maybe I made a mistake when I posted.

Sorry for the difficulty. I will try to clear it up soon.
 
All the pics look good for me.
That monitor screen is sweet. Nice. :)
Thanks for such a detailed thread.
 
Coin Door Re-Assembly

All the pics look good for me.

Cool. Good to know forum members could see the images. I've moved the pics over to Google Drive so my non-KLOV friends can see the progress too.

The paint on the coin door had dried. Time to put it back together:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KVbdmupylo2LcsOMgfqvq_7HW9r71i3s/view?usp=sharing
uc


Installed coin door images below. I'm happy with the result:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10E3IjXfoFf1m0U93wBzHRCqReI4Y2Mts/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y9ZYJXlncNZb_umo37uYqdOjFmTV_W4e/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jdspj2KLlL0CoxPXgx2TNu_ROt-eHwwH/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4FeyqBbAgckelShUxDyT_Vo77xmS1bb/view?usp=sharing
uc


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b-AeOgLrCX7_npkDMwVe7PDWeY_1fbem/view?usp=sharing
uc


I didn't expect to have the game fully functional at this point in the process. Been playing more than restoring lately.
(My face reflection looks like another ghost in the maze lol)
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LIASZel-ngdeyX8jcazEndbWuAy_V1HN/view?usp=sharing
 
Inspiring thread! I'm just starting down this road with a cabinet I just picked up and I'm very happy to see this machine back amongst the living! Awesome job! Great report! I'll do the same as I work on mine.
 
Marquee and Glass Bezel

Next, I cleaned up and stabilized the marquee and glass bezel.

The original glass bezel was destroyed in the flood. I had to buy another one pulled from a Pac-Man upright.

The marquee was in good shape. Some small scratches but nothing serious. I cleaned the front with glass cleaner and a paper towel. the back was stable enough for me to be able to spray glass cleaner on the paper towel and then gently rub off some of the dirt. I would have damaged it if I cleaned too hard. A small amount of dirt on the back won't really matter.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jOIpwlcxAHpNkYlMpeQKgDhmKgZVPyfn/view?usp=sharing


The glass bezel I ordered looked great too, but the print was fragile. I could see areas where it was lifting off the glass. Some of the edges had already flaked off. I cleaned the front. I did not clean the back at all to avoid damage.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F7v9x5ZQ58G6wjSQaOMY6yt_6JtI_--K/view?usp=sharing


Triple Thick Application:
1- I taped butcher paper over the front of the marquee to protect from triple thick overspray. I made sure the painters tape did not cover any of the back.
2- I put the marquee flat on a piece of cardboard outside and sprayed on the triple thick glazing. I used 3 coats. After each coat, I waited a few minutes before applying the next.
3- I used similar prep for the glass bezel. I also covered the clear area on the print side with paper. Be careful not to touch the art with the tape. I made this mistake. Tape removal took some of the art off later. Ideally, there should be a millimeter or so gap between the tape and the print.
4- 3 coats of triple thick.
I left these level for 24 hours to dry flat. I was really happy with the triple thick protective layer once it dried.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MJNdkZYqdHkiunBKVq2-4xlLQ7mLhbE2/view?usp=sharing


There were more rusty metal parts that needed stripping and repainting. Here I de-rusted the marquee brackets, the glass bezel retainer bar, and the metal angle from the bottom of the cabinet that protects the wood when the game is moved (this piece was really rusted). I used my drill-mounted wire brush again. After stripping off all the rust I used the acetone wash -> 2X coats of primer -> 3X coats of paint method. I used rustoleum black satin for the marquee brackets, rustoleum aluminum for the the bezel retainer bar, and krylon gloss sun yellow for the bottom truck angle (final paint result not pictured).
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/170TikZss2Qo8sYHjx3M_QPJbU3hE8NJs/view?usp=sharing


The installed marquee
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iHnDeEFhSuXnH5yhWKZK85_wEKWG51s0/view?usp=sharing


Glass Bezel Finishing:
1- The triple thick made the print much more stable. I was able to do some more cleaning on the non-print areas of the glass.
2- As I mentioned before, I got a little too close to the print with the tape, and some of the edge was ripped off. Some of the edges were already gone.
3- I used a Sharpie oil-based black paint pen and a razor and went around the edges trying to rebuild them. It sort of worked. Not perfect, but much better. Luckily, the dark presentation of the glass bezel on Pac-Man hides these small imperfections.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13XeJFm_NP8rwsjFzH0wYA_AqaXjbzNRC/view?usp=sharing


Re-assembly:
1- Plastic bezel re-installation
2- Tint screen in place
3- Glass bezel replaced
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AU6ILhRzhKfM02sQgi0u0YpZaig8NxS4/view?usp=sharing


Done! I'm digging the way its coming out.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yXWx3uTk3zh-mxSLLHTS9i1Dket_Nxol/view?usp=sharing

I need to cut out a new back door next. I have replacement orange t-molding, but I can't install it until I finish the side painting. That may have to wait till warm weather.
 
Inspiring thread! I'm just starting down this road with a cabinet I just picked up and I'm very happy to see this machine back amongst the living! Awesome job! Great report! I'll do the same as I work on mine.

Thanks! Good luck with your project!
 
Following as I need to cut a new backdoor for mine and will be waiting to see how you do it. Also, if you could provide the measurements you used that would be awesome.

It's hard to believe that cabinet has been in a flood the way you have resurrected it.
 
Following as I need to cut a new backdoor for mine and will be waiting to see how you do it. Also, if you could provide the measurements you used that would be awesome.

It's hard to believe that cabinet has been in a flood the way you have resurrected it.

Thanks!

I just cut the new back door last week. Been meaning to update the thread. Got distracted with a few other restorations.

I will try to this post with the measurements later tonight.
 
Back Door

Here is my work on the new back door. I probably went really off-script with this part of the cabinet. Oh well, its just the back. No one will see it right?

The original was particle board. I just don't like using that cheap material. I used 3/4" plywood.

I started by cutting a 23 7/8" x 43 1/4" rectangle:
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LGUqVUZW1xHxRjQgVLyB2YBLD-9Whqaj/view?usp=sharing

I then routed around the top and sides of the door (1/2" wide, 1/4" deep) so it would fit into the cab.

I made a 3/8" X 1/8" feature on the bottom to capture in the groove.

uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IgqB7XqlSsDGvjX8Dwpxtgh9e6Tr0wg_/view?usp=sharing

uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OLXrCwJrDTNdgLp9wPyRtuyLVhiRAkta/view?usp=sharing

I also had to rout out some clearance about halfway up the sides for some cabinet rib pieces. Not sure why these are there. I think they are used when you want to use screws to secure the door.

I then used what was left of the old door to get dims for the vent holes.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19KqFyKv_Wz0lU3jawT84IJqeh9UjQg-t/view?usp=sharing

I drilled 1/2" holes at the corners of the vent holes and used my vibrating saw to complete the cut outs.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z3aSbQQ6NrBcN5gsy1aulC1fqPdtoe7C/view?usp=sharing

This sorta worked. It seems a little sloppy tho. I had to clean up alot with my files. Thankfully, the actual cutouts in the game aren't perfect either, so the new vents kind of match.
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16je4wJHsGDhGsaRI1OjKv5gC7PcXytlj/view?usp=sharing

Here are the dims I used for the new vent cut outs based on what was left of the old door:
uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qWE5Rbe-AgwKtyAdXeT9v3x17tkkdast/view?usp=sharing

uc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_KzRylP8fh7kzGxitnlT7gjhqHG4KKdU/view?usp=sharing

I also drilled out a hole for the lock. I was able to re use the old lock and plate.

I think I made it too complicated! Painting next and then putting the screens in.
 
Cool. I have like 3-4 back doors for midway cabs to cut.... Not too happy about that myself.
 
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