good question we never set anything up for mac i will look into it
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This is the same issue Jay Leone is having. Then someone else with a cockpit said the brake was good so I assumed it was his cabinet.I'm having a somewhat similar issue in my cockpit. Gas works perfect 00-A0. But the brake is locked at 90 verified the switch is good. Rang out the wires all the way to the harness, good. Decided to remove brake all together still locked at a value of 90. Try to play it just acts like the brake is depressed.
To add in the P4 input menu the brake will show Low regardless of switch position. Gas pedal shows 50-F0. Verified 5v and the switch. Wired as in the schematic
The brake input is tied high on an upright harness forcing it to be disabled.I'm having a somewhat similar issue in my cockpit. Gas works perfect 00-A0. But the brake is locked at 90 verified the switch is good. Rang out the wires all the way to the harness, good. Decided to remove brake all together still locked at a value of 90. Try to play it just acts like the brake is depressed.
To add in the P4 input menu the brake will show Low regardless of switch position. Gas pedal shows 50-F0. Verified 5v and the switch. Wired as in the schematic
Yes exactly 5v at RThis is the same issue Jay Leone is having. Then someone else with a cockpit said the brake was good so I assumed it was his cabinet.
Can you verify that pin R actually has 5v ?
Were they able to get it working? I don't have a working board set to test it with currently but everything looks ok according to the schematics. My first thought was the switch was dead but meter says it's ok.This is the same issue Jay Leone is having. Then someone else with a cockpit said the brake was good so I assumed it was his cabinet.
Can you verify that pin R actually has 5v ?
I don't know why there was 3v on that NO terminal. The schematic shows it as just floating. I connected a ground to the NO and the brake works correctly nowWere they able to get it working? I don't have a working board set to test it with currently but everything looks ok according to the schematics. My first thought was the switch was dead but meter says it's ok.
I have been working on some more troubleshooting. Switch is wired NC and when the pedal is in rest it is depressing the micro switch, so it should be HI. But I am getting 3.3V at pin 6. When the pedal is pressing and the micro switch opened (NC) I get 5V. Tried two different micro switches, same result
i just came here to post what i believe to be a fix and you grounding the NO terminal proves that theory.I don't know why there was 3v on that NO terminal. The schematic shows it as just floating. I connected a ground to the NO and the brake works correctly now

Gas at 50-d2 is weak. I suggest checking for full travel on your gas pot. It should rotate about 180 degrees. Another thought is some people swapped the outer pot wires to get piposition going if anyone has ever done that I suggest putting it back to stock.I got the update installed and my Matsushita monitor dialed in correctly now. Thank you.
I am also having a problem with the brake in my cockpit. My brake was listed as "90", which is correct according to how the switch is installed but could not get it to go to low. I did discover the switch was not working (stuck closed) but even after disconnecting the switch all together, the game was acting like I was hitting the brake every few seconds and you'd hear the tire screech. I tied the switch legs together to create the closed switch the game is expecting for the brake to be "off" and now the gas isn't working during game play.
When I go to test the inputs, this is what I get:
Gas: 50-D2 in P4test. - 00-68 in PPtest
Brake low in P4, 90 in pp
I was able to get the brake to change from low to high and 90 to 00 by shorting the switch legs, originally but it's not even doing that anymore.
The gas is working in the test menus but not in game. I'm able to add a credit with the pedal and give it gas prior to the green light but once green light hits, the gas dies and I can't go anymore.
For future knowledge since I have a second one of these boards. It looks like there is already a resistor on pins 1 to 14 of IC1. That isn't changing at all. Just adding an additional from IC1 1 to edge connector 1i just came here to post what i believe to be a fix and you grounding the NO terminal proves that theory.
putting a 200 ohm resistor between these 2 points should fix everyone's brake in the cockpit cabinet.
or as you have done ground the NO coctact
View attachment 851532
check your messages i am sending you a new one.I've got a blank screen on my k7901 monitor with the P4 installed. Monitor is perfect with old boards installed. Any ideas what to try next? I did try both dip 1 settings with no luck.
maybe wiggle your volume pots? have you tried turning up the volume? use the opto included that should fix your steeringRather than post a new thread, I figured this one seemed to be the current de facto here for trouble shooting.
My original boards PP1 boards have been flaky lately, so I was excited to score a P4 in the recent ArcadeShop restock. However, I've got a couple odd issues with my installation.
1. Steering doesn't work at all in P4. Not in test mode, not in game. Steering does work with fine with original boards. (I have not yet tried the new opto that was included)
2. Sound. I can faintly hear sounds from both speakers. Seems like it is maybe line level and not amplifying? I assumed the problem was one of my AR's, but again, I get amplified sound via original boards. So I'm stumped.
Prior to install, I upgraded to the latest firmware yesterday that @ArcadeJason posted to AS here.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
1. Steering doesn't work at all in P4. Not in test mode, not in game. Steering does work with fine with original boards. (I have not yet tried the new opto that was included)
2. Sound. I can faintly hear sounds from both speakers. Seems like it is maybe line level and not amplifying? I assumed the problem was one of my AR's, but again, I get amplified sound via original boards. So I'm stumped.