OutRun upright restoration

12. Metal trim parts

I used an angle grinder to remove any paint and imperfections, followed by sanding with medium and fine discs, followed by polishing.

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I used the same technique as for the brake pedal, the metals turned our very nice.

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13. Front foot area restoration.

I removed the dirty rubber mat and placed it next to my NOS...

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I discovered that I could no longer install one of the screws for the gas pedal because one of the screws had snapped into the T-nut that sat underneath the wood base. I decide that the best way was to take out the whole T-nut using a hole saw. I then decided that I should fill the hole with a suitable dowel, at the end of which I would install a new T-nut. I included a washer so that the whole dowel-T-nut would sit at the proper height on the bottom base.

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After I made that, I glued it in place. I installed the actual screw that would keep the gas pedal attached so that I could easily pick up the part and glue it in place.

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After the glue dried, I used some wood filler and sanded it when that dried. For installation of the rubber mat, I masked the area and sprayed 3M hi-strength 90 adhesive on both the wood and the rubber mat. I followed the instructions from 3M and the mat installed beautifully.

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The metal trim installed without a hitch using brand new screws.

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I then cut new wood rails for the bottom of the cabinet for installation of the leg levelers. The machine had those rails and, while I don't think they are necessary, I decided to replace them since they were rotten.

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14. Sideart package

Installation of front and side went without a hitch but took a LONG time to make sure the alignment was exactly as it should. Unfortunately, the art on one side at the top is a little off, but I was OK with that. T-molding went smoothly, I used the handle of a hammer to get the T-molding in the inside curves.

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The map decal went on without a hitch as well.

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15. Lights, fan and monitor work

I decided to replace the ballast with an LED strip and the fan with a new AC muffin fan.

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While at it, I cleaned the K7000 monitor chassis and installed a cap kit plus a flyback (that was cracked). Tested and worked great.

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16. Putting everything together and final photos

I installed the bezel but it was a little tight since the T-molding was a hair wider than the cabinet. The machine looked and played great! I thoroughly enjoyed this restoration.

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Since then, I added a subwoofer, 2 brake lights, an NVRAM mod and a PCM audio mod, more details on these here:

 
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Nice restoration! The graphics and stereo sound in Outrun are timeless.

I'd like to polish up the pedals on the Outrun here and also tighten up the shifter a bit as well. It stays in low gear but it is a bit loose.
 
Nice job! I just sold my Outrun. I have a spare power brick, wiring harness and steering wheel for anyone who wants to pay for shipping or come pick it up. It's just taking up space here.

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This thing looks great. Nice work. Why all the double picture posts?
Thanks!

I had to go back and do some edits and I messed up the pictures in the posts, I will clean it up....

I am prepping another resto thread, just need to get the text and pics ready.
 
Nice restoration! The graphics and stereo sound in Outrun are timeless.

I'd like to polish up the pedals on the Outrun here and also tighten up the shifter a bit as well. It stays in low gear but it is a bit loose.

Thanks!

Polishing with an angle grinder can get you some really nice results. Plenty of videos on YouTube. You really need to practice first to get the handling of the grinder right, how much pressure to put on and the direction of the grinding.

As for the shifter, you will probably need a new spring, you can get hold of an assortment pack and try a few to find the right one.

p
 
Son of a bitch that game looks amazing. Way to go to town on an absolute classic. Rebuilding the steering assembly is a chore on these. I have the plastic repro gears. Going on 3 or 4 years and have held up great so far.
 
Son of a bitch that game looks amazing. Way to go to town on an absolute classic. Rebuilding the steering assembly is a chore on these. I have the plastic repro gears. Going on 3 or 4 years and have held up great so far.

Thanks, good to know about the gears. Are you using the "lightened" springs? If so, how does the steering feel?
 
Wow...I'm doing a simple cabinet swap on mine but seeing yours makes me want to go all out! Too bad I'm not set up for much wood working or angle grinding...I'll have to pass for now and just do a swap I think ;)
 
@parism great restore and write up - I'm finding it really helpful on my restore.

Could I ask... is the laminate used the 1595 Black matte black i.e. https://www.cabinetmakerwarehouse.com/catalog/black-wilsonart-laminate-sheets-matte-finish/

It looks like yours has a slight texture - is that correct?
That was the one indeed. But, I found that Feeney laminate has a deeper black than the Wilsonart and is cheaper, both on matte. I think the Feeney 2110 is a better match to the black vinyl that covered the cabinet. They both behave the same in terms of installation, in my experience.

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The problem is that Feeney matte 2110 does not seem to be available in 4x8.

I would order samples of the 401 Pitch Black Feeney and the 1595 Wilsonart, both in matte to compare.

Good luck!

p
 
I'm just seeing this thread for the first time. Great job on the restoration!

Wade
Thanks! The game is still in the game room. In addition to the original board, I added a SmartyPi with a RiddledTV switcher (for other games that my boys like) as well as a subwoofer and brake lights (but the relay is broken and I need to fix)… still fun to play after 37 years.
 
I've had a lot of questions on which subwoofer to use in this cabinet, so I am including some information here.

I am using the subwoofer from the Logitech X540 set, it has the power transformer built-in so I am connecting the AC power to the subwoofer to the AC connection inside the cabinet.

The control of the subwoofer has an On/Off button (which is always On so it turns on when the game is powered on) and the controller can be routed inside the cabinet behind the coin door. The input to the subwoofer is a 3.5mm cable that is connected on the other end to a small Molex connector on the PCB.

The subwoofer is resting on a shelf inside the cabinet and the whole thing can be easily removed if desired.

p

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