Outrun power supply, hi all!

jcterzin

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Hi all,

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I just received my power supply and need to hook it up. The pics are further down in this post. Any help would be greatly apprectiated.
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Im looking into buying an outrun machine from a local guy and he says that it is missing the power supply. The machine is cheap so I was thinking of picking it up, the question is: what power supply do I need to buy? I have no idea when it comes to this part. I can do many fixes but I dont have a clue what im looking for when the part isnt even there!

Oh, and its good to be apart of these forums, its my first post!
 
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Welcome to the boards!

It depends on what the guy means by "power supply." People can use the term in reference to the entire power supply unit or a single component of it such as the isolation transformer or switching power supply.

If it is just the switching power supply, these are very easy to find and can be found for less than $25.

OutRun actually has more components that make up the entire power supply unit because it has an amplifier and steering wheel shaking motor. If it turns out that you need to buy the entire power supply unit, these can be found on eBay or you can make a post in the "Wanted" section of this forum.

The image below is from my mini Turbo OutRun which lacks the additional parts for the shaking motor but should give you a general idea of what you may need.

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The main difference is that the OutRun power supply unit will have two capacitors and two rectifiers.

I would recommend getting it if it is cheap. The PCB itself can be worth $50~100 even if untested. The thing you have to watch out for with OutRun is the steering wheel gears because with the shaker they can strip out or break easily. However; there are replacements available.
 

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thanks for the advice and picture, I hope you didnt take apart your machine just on my behalf! that will most likely help me out quite a bit figuring this thing out. I will email the guy to see whether or not it is just the switching or not and Ill post the results.
 
If you feel comfortable, post his asking price. That will help us determine whether or not you should investigate further, walk away from the deal or load up without asking any further questions.
 
good used power supplies run $10, new ones run 20-40, so id be worried there was something else wrong with the thing.. but if its cheap enough, id say go for it.
 
well, I decided to pick it up. I looked it over and the exterior cosmetics arent too bad, everything looks ok from the outside. I only paid $100 for it and am hoping I can get it up and running within a month. Ill take a picture of its guts once I get it in the house for everyone to see, and hopefullly some feedback on what kind of work may need to be done.
 
hey guys.

Ok, so Im posting some pictures I just took of the cabinet and guts. Looks like its def. missing the switching power supply. There's also some piece of circuitry or other that is just dangling down that I have no Idea what would be used for. It connects to the monitor I think. Ill post that too.

oh, and if anyone could point me to what I should be buying to get the correct power supply that would be very helpful too!
 

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That dangling circuit board is the remote adjustment board. It's used to make adjustments to the picture on the monitor. It's there so you don't have to use a mirror to make those adjustments.
 
Those remote monitor boards are great, not all monitors have them. Put it near the coin door if it will stretch that far so you can make adjustments while looking at the screen.

Here are a few options for the switching power supply:
[URL="http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80006400.htm"]HAPP[/URL]
TheRealBobRoberts (under "15 Amp Standard Switching Power Supply")
Ebay (or that seller's website TwistedQuarter.com )

If you look a bit you may be able to find a cheaper one, especially if you search for working used ones.

The switcher should hook up to the yellow and white wires with the U shaped clips seen in the bottom right of the third photo. There should be a green wire (earth ground) and two AC power wires with that type of clip that will also hook up to the switching power supply. Also, there is another connector in your photo by those wires that should hook up to the PCB as seen in the photo below.

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If you have not found it yet, a digital copy of the manual can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Manuals_and_Schematics/Outrun Upright Manual.pdf
 

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thanks for the pic again, that will certainly help me out! Another question though.

one of the power supplies has an amp rating of +5v 15A, +12v 2A, -5v 1A, 110 watts
whereas the other has a rating of +5v 15A, +12v 3A, -5v 1A, 110 watts.

the only difference I see is the 1 amp increase from 2 to 3 between them, does this matter which one I purchase then? Or is the extra amperage damaging?
 
That just means you can pull more current with that power supply. Depending on your boards need for power.
Ex if you board pulls 2A then you would want a power supply with a rating of more than 2A. You don't want to run the power supply at 100% load all the time. I like to run them about 60-80% So you would want a 3A or more power supply for the above example.

It's just telling you the max amp load for the supply at that voltage.
 
OutRun only uses the +5VDC and Ground lines from the switching power supply. The +12VDC used by the audio amplifier is generated by one of the rectifier / capacitor circuits. Since you are not even using the +12VDC line from the switcher, it really does not matter.

The OutRun wiring diagram shows it originally had a power supply rated at 10 Amps so the 15 Amp rating maximum is more than sufficient for the +5VDC. Do not be concerned that the maximum rating is higher than what is actually needed. The PCB circuits will only draw as many amps as it actually needs.

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once again, very helpful. I went ahead and ordered one from twisterquarter.com. It should arrive in a couple of days. in the mean time, Ill start to clean the machine up a bit. eliminate dust, check connections... Ill post again once the unit arrives.
 
alright guys. I got the supply the other day and today is the first day I have to work on it. I think I know where the wires are suppose to hook up but I want to be sure so I dont blow out the computer or something equally awful. Here are the pics.

there are two wires, one orange and one grey, that come from the isolation transformer it looks like. Are these wires for the monitor? There are the yellow and white wires too, and then the green ground. Where do they hook up to on the switching power supply? Truth be told, if someone could just tell me which wire should go where, then I would feel a whole lot better!
 

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Based off of my Turbo OutRun (I would assume the original OutRun used the same colors) its:

+5V = Yellow
GND = White
FG = Green
AC = Orange
AC = Gray

My switcher does not say which AC is the Line wire (AG/L) and which is the Neutral (AC/N). You might be able to tell if you trace it back to the electrical cord, white is Neutral and black is Line but I am not sure if it matters that much anyway since it is AC.

The wires going to the monitor on my game are Light Blue, Pink, and Green.
 
ok, and does it matter which yellow (there are two yellow and two white) goes to which terminal? my supply has terminals that read --5v1a, -+5v15a, and -+12v2.5a. should i just hook them both to the -+5v15a terminal?
 
Yes, both of the yellow wires should go to the same +5V 15A terminal. You have two GND terminals so for the other white wires you can double-up one GND terminal or use one wire on each GND terminal.

The other two voltage terminals (-5V and +12V) are not used on OutRun. Several other games use those voltages - especially Midway (NBA JAM, MKII...), but others like OutRun do not. Some games can even use +5 and +12 but not -5 and even a few games use +5 and -5 but not +12! Most switching power supplies give you all three just in case.
 
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ok ok, that explains alot! is that the same reason that it has a switch on the bottom the lets me switch from 110v or 220v? it should be 110 for outrun right?
 
SUCCESS! I switched it on and crossed my fingers. The PCB has a little red light that came on which hopefully means its working correctly! Nothing on the monitor though. I did notice a capacitor had been broken off the pcb on the bottom right side. and there are still some wiring harnesses that arent plugged in anywhere hanging from the ceiling of the cab. Im still just glad it didnt blow up in my face though!
 
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