Out Run wiring

silvereagle

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Hey guys,

I'm wondering inf anyone is kind enough to post pictures of the inside wiring of their out run please.

I picked up an Out Run parts cab yesterday along with a complete wiring harness and power supply from another member here as im trying to put one full working unit together. Upon comparing the two side by side, I noticed the complete parts can doesn't have the blue battery looking capacitor, just a regular switcher power supply, where the box of parts does. So I'm wondering which is which?

Below are some photos of the parts cab. Monitor is dead but everything else works. So the seller said.

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Loose connector?

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Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks in advance.
 
PCB looks like a bootleg to me.

The cabinet wiring is clearly not OEM. If it ever was Sega factory, it has been heavily modified. I don't think any amount of photos is going to help...

All that's needed for the game PCB to run is 5VDC. The audio amp needs 12VDC, and the shaker motor runs on like 50VDC (IIRC). Looks to me like your cab has a whole-game isolation xformer (I think they're common in Canada, a pin I imported from Canada had one too...) and some other transformer (either redundant isolation for the monitor, or perhaps a step-down for the shaker motor). The original has a switcher for 5V, and linear supplies for the other two. Looks like yours have a switcher to provide both 5 & 12 (not sure where the shaker voltage comes from).
 
Thanks Darren. At least this gives me some indication. The more I compare the wiring, switcher and smaller pcbs that I bought from the US, they are totally different than whats inside the cab now. Come to think of it, even the marquee is different.

I'll pop in a working monitor and fix the AC plug this weekend and see if all works and decide what to do. My other empty cab has the original artwork and is in much better shape so I might transfer everything over and keep the box of parts as back ups.
 
Again, if anyone could please post photos of their dedicated out run wiring so I can pin point which wirevand connector goes where, I can use my dedicated wiring to put the machine together.


Would really appreciate the help :)
 
Thanks for the help Darren. Now I really don't know what to do with this. I have a complete Original parts machine and pcb in a box ready to be installed and a complete bootleg cab.

I tested the bootleg earlier today, it plays blind but I can hear sound, shifter works but the shaker motor doesn't seem to work. It did shake the machine violently when I first plugged it in but it never worked after. Is there another way to test the shaker motor?
 
Okay, I figured out all of the wiring with the exception of the power section with the blue / black caps and transformer. Could someone please take a photo of the bottom wiring section of their out run cab? Please guys, I really need your help. I'm a visual person and need to see photos to make sense what goes where.

Thanks :)
 
I'd post a pic of mine, but before I got it the 12V linear supply was replaced with a 12V switcher... so it lacks one of the large filter caps, and the wiring has been modified accordingly. And on top of that, I've added a PC sub-woofer in there, so it'd probably confuse the situation rather than clarify it... :)
 
LOL. Probably :) thanks anyways though.

I think I'll stick with the bootleg board. The wiring is much simpler and I can easily transfer it from one cabinet to the other. I also tested the shaker motor yesterday with a 9V battery so I see movement and know it works, although when I tried playing it, nothing seemed to happen. Could just be wiring or connector related.

As of right now, it plays fine but blind. Momitor seems to be shot.
 
Alright, I think I have most of the wiring figured out with the exception of the rectifiers. Are these required and if so, what purpose do they serve?

Thanks in advance.
 
Alright, I think I have most of the wiring figured out with the exception of the rectifiers. Are these required and if so, what purpose do they serve?

The output of the transformers is stepped-down AC voltage. The bridge rectifiers convert that to (pulsing) DC voltage. The capacitors then filter that to generate (unregulated, but not pulsing... too much) regular DC voltage. The 2 in an original OutRun are for 12V (used by the amplifier) and 50V (IIRC) for the shaker motor.

Here's a photo of the bottom of my cabinet.
 

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Thanks for the photo and clarification Darren. So if I'm understanding this correctly, both rectifiers read + - in the outer pins and AC on the middle pins. The plus / minus would connect to the caps (one rectifier per cap) and the AC to the transformer?

The idiot that sold me the parts went snip happy and cut all the wires so it's difficult for me to figure out which wires go where but I'm starting to make headway with your help :)

Here's what I have:

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So if I'm understanding this correctly, both rectifiers read + - in the outer pins and AC on the middle pins. The plus / minus would connect to the caps (one rectifier per cap) and the AC to the transformer?

Yes, that's all correct. To add a little more detail, the + lead of the rectifier is the one with the angled corner. The capacitors are also going to be polarized, meaning + & - have to be hooked up correctly. Look for some marking on it to indicate which terminal is which.
 
Gotcha. One more question if I may Darren. From two of the connectors that plug into the small pcb at the bottom of the cab, there are two loose wires from each one. One set is grey / blue, the other is grey brown. From reading the manual, it seems these also get connected to each of the caps or the rectifiers instead?
 
I have what I beleive to be an 'untouched' original Outrun and will try to get some photos for you post tonight. I haven't dug into the back side of the machine too much as of yet.

My machine was working when I got it but was extremely dirty, the gas pedal looked like spagetti, the springs on the steering wheel is broken and it didn't shake.

Last night I pulled the steering mechs off and began the rebuild process on it. The springs are next to impossible to find so I think I'm gonna 'improvise' them with some from Ace Hardware. It has the typical cracked vinyl gears but I was able to reposition them so the cracks should affect the game play anymore. There was so much gummed up bad grease that it made the shaker impossible to move and I don't think the motor was trying to move it anyway. I do know that I can turn the motor by hand so at least it's not froze up. Once I get it all back together and know it can slide easily I'll figure out the shaker part. I have read in other post that there is a dip switch setting that allows you to turn off the shaker but haven't confirmed that yet. Also, there is a small board inside he machine that controls the shaker so if the option isn't the problem, I'll suspect the shaker board.

Hope this helps.!!!

Oh, if anyone has the center cap of the steering wheel or a set of gears please post them here and I'm sure someone will be happy to take them off your hands!

Rusty
 
Hey Rusty,

Appreciate the help my friend. If you could snap a few photos and post them here, I would really appreciate it. I think I have most of it figured out and Darren has been extremely helpful as well but a few more photos would definitely help. Especially a detailed photo of the wiring at the bottom of the cab if possible, the wiring connections at the control panel and fan at the top of the cabinet if not too much trouble :)

Cheers,
Sergio
 
Could someone please take a detailed photo of the wiring at the rectifiers, cap / transformer? I'm starting to put mine together and would like to make sure I'm wiring it correctly.

Thanks :)
 
Found these scattered on the web, not sure if they will help you
 

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Thank you for the efforts but doesn't really help me. Its the rats nest of wiring around the transformer, caps and rectifiers I need a clear picture of. When I try to blow up the photo, its hard to tell which wire goes where.
 
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