Out Run no sound, video patterns

StilgarISCA

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Donor 4 years: 2016, 2023-2025
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I assembled an Out Run upright from parts I've acquired over the last three years.
I have it (finally) all assembled, but it's not working. I'm at the limit of what I know how to check.

The details:

Isolation transformer voltages look good.
Votage from the switcher to the PCB look good.
Coin door lighs come on, but don't seem to trigger anything
LEDs on logic board and video board light up.
Test / Service buttons don't seem to do anything.
No sound.

I don't have a CRT ready to go in here, so I tried a Gonbes board with LCD. Gonbes puts up a no signal type of message. I have a differnet converter board I've also tried. I can't remember the board name, but it was recommended in a thread somewhere. With the other board sometimes I get dancing green lines, or the other static pattern pics below.

I tested continuity for RGBS and seems good. I've checked the wiring for that many times. I do get about 3.8v out of the sync when it's powered up.

The main boneheaded thing I did was I initially had the RGB plugged into the pinout on the left side of the board instead of the bottom. That's not used in upright, so I'm guessing that's for deluxe sitdown. Possible I fried something there?

I tested for watchdog based on another thread, but didn't see voltage drops, so I think I'm good there.

I get 13v from the green and white wires that come off of the amplifier board.

Unless I inadvertantly torched the PCB, or it coincidentally died, I wouldn't expect it to be bad. I bought it refurbished from @parism and it litterally sat in the unopened shipping box in my basement for three years.

IMG_5363.jpeg

IMG_5470.jpeg

IMG_5471.jpeg
 
Sorry for your troubles, can you verify that the TTL ICs are getting close to 5V? You can use any TTL, better yet an open socket (see below, lead color is for your multimeter). The red arrow seems to point to the EPROM but it is the bottom right of the socket, the green arrow points to the top left of the socket.

IMG_4594.jpeg

p
 
I can tell you when I got my Outrun and sound was missing, I found that the 32V fuse (the one nearest the back door, 6A I think) was popped. Researching here and on Arcade-Controls suggested it might be the bridge rectifier that converts 11VAC off the transformer to 12VDC for the audio amp. I disconnected the power to the amp, replaced the fuse, and it immediately popped again. That gave me confidence is was indeed the rectifier. I got a replacement from eBay (an RS203L was the closest match the original RS203, and I believe it was @KaBoom1701 that confirmed the same had worked for him.

I removed the rectifier, found that several legs were shorted (which is not correct behavior), replaced the bridge rectifier, proved it no longer popped the fuse, and then hooked the audio amp power back up and I had sound again.
 
I tested all the empty sockets and they were getting power. They were getting 5.2v so I dialed back the switcher until they were closer to 5.

Yeah, I saw that thread about the rectifiers, but I have more going on than no sound. I feel like I tested mine before I started hooking stuff up, but it's been a few weeks and I can no longer say for sure.
 
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