Orion A48JLL40X46 help

JUAN9999

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Hi. I recently purchased a used ms pacman/galaga class of 81 reunion cocktail machines and would like assistance with trying to get the monitor fixed.

The monitor is an Orion A48JLL40X46 manufactured 2006 with screen burn.

When I initially power the machine, the monitor is either blank or displays some garbage (it's mostly blank.

If I wait a few minutes, and power off then power on, then it starts working fine (see image).

Any idea what the issue is?

Also, if you notice, the bottom right of the screen seems to have magnetic interference. This disappears when I lift the monitor out of the cabinet (it's on a cocktail hinge) to say reach the PCB.

Any idea what causes that?

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Hi, the color issue is just the earth's magnetic field messing with the colors. It will fix itself normally after a few power cycles or days. It could also be the speaker if its close to that corner.

That is not the monitor model, you are reading the tube model number. There is probably a sticker on the electronics that tells the monitor model.
 
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From you description, it doesn't sound like a monitor issue, but a power supply or game board issue.
 
From you description, it doesn't sound like a monitor issue, but a power supply or game board issue.

Thanks for your response.

Ok, so I have the same issue with the original game board, and my ArPiCade board and have the same power on issue. I am experiencing some other issues (no sound with original PCB/sound with raspberry Pi)- could it be wiring or ground issues?

How should I test the power supply?
 
Thanks for your response.

Ok, so I have the same issue with the original game board, and my ArPiCade board and have the same power on issue. I am experiencing some other issues (no sound with original PCB/sound with raspberry Pi)- could it be wiring or ground issues?

How should I test the power supply?

Use a DMM in DC volts mode across the +5 and GND terminals of the PS. It's possible that it's simply maladjusted. There should be a pot on the power supply to set the +5 rail. Check the +12V output as well.

It's possible that you have issues with multiple rails of the PS, or you might have a PS issue and a fault on the original game PCB. Hard to say, but it's a good idea to start with the power supply.

It just uses a normal switching supply, they're easy to replace, so you might opt to just do that.
 
Hi, the color issue is just the earth's magnetic field messing with the colors. It will fix itself normally after a few power cycles or days. It could also be the speaker if its close to that corner.

That is not the monitor model, you are reading the tube model number. There is probably a sticker on the electronics that tells the monitor model.

Thanks.

It only happens in the last "inch" when I swivel the monitor back into the cabinet. Right before it's in, it's perfect. The neckbeard is close to the power supply.

I can't find the model number... Attached are some pictures.
 

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your chassis is a 7203

you have a couple issues.

the discoloration is from the chassis needing a degauss.
if the chassis does not fix the issue after a couple power cycles after the chassis cools down for 1/2 hour between cycles, you will need a degauss tool.

i sell them if you need one.

the second issue, if the monitor does not power on every time you need to rebuild the chassis.
the caps are all original and when the are bad, it will keep your monitor from turning on every time.

i recommend a cap kit and a good re-flow.

if you are local to me, your welcome to bring it by the shop and i can get it all fixed up.

if you want to do it yourself i have the parts you need.

if you not local, and need it fixed, your welcome to send it in.

shoot me a PM or email if you need help.

Peace
Buffett
 
i would completely agree they used garbage caps originally on them so for sure a reflow and cap kit. if you need the cap kit and parts i have the best quality caps in our kits and they in stock.
 
Use a DMM in DC volts mode across the +5 and GND terminals of the PS. It's possible that it's simply maladjusted. There should be a pot on the power supply to set the +5 rail. Check the +12V output as well.

It's possible that you have issues with multiple rails of the PS, or you might have a PS issue and a fault on the original game PCB. Hard to say, but it's a good idea to start with the power supply.

It just uses a normal switching supply, they're easy to replace, so you might opt to just do that.

Ok, so I measured the voltage from the main power supply and I get

4.88v from the 5v output
11.86 on the 12v output

On the PCB I get:
4.86v on the 5v input
11.66v on the 12v input

On the backboard of the monitor I was able to measure 118v when set to DC (not AC).

Is this within tolerance or do I need a new PS? If so where can I get one/which one should I get?

UPDATE: After unbolting the PSU from the motherboard I found that the voltage is adjustable- so it's now running at 5V. Monitor question is still open.
 
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your chassis is a 7203

you have a couple issues.

the discoloration is from the chassis needing a degauss.
if the chassis does not fix the issue after a couple power cycles after the chassis cools down for 1/2 hour between cycles, you will need a degauss tool.

i sell them if you need one.

the second issue, if the monitor does not power on every time you need to rebuild the chassis.
the caps are all original and when the are bad, it will keep your monitor from turning on every time.

i recommend a cap kit and a good re-flow.

if you are local to me, your welcome to bring it by the shop and i can get it all fixed up.

if you want to do it yourself i have the parts you need.

if you not local, and need it fixed, your welcome to send it in.

shoot me a PM or email if you need help.

Peace
Buffett

I have found another sticker. Is it the same model?

I live in Hawaii so I suspect I can get a friend to do it. How much is your recap kit?

Also, is there any danger/urgency in recaping it? i.e. what happens if I don't do it now?
 

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Ok, so I measured the voltage from the main power supply and I get



4.88v from the 5v output

11.86 on the 12v output



On the PCB I get:

4.86v on the 5v input

11.66v on the 12v input



On the backboard of the monitor I was able to measure 118v when set to DC (not AC).



Is this within tolerance or do I need a new PS? If so where can I get one/which one should I get?



That is low. Adjust it so you get 5.05v at the PCB edge and see if your booting problems go away.

The switching power supply is unrelated to the monitor; it's not clear to me which isn't starting up. If it's the PCB, the power supply adjustment might solve it.
 
That is low. Adjust it so you get 5.05v at the PCB edge and see if your booting problems go away.

The switching power supply is unrelated to the monitor; it's not clear to me which isn't starting up. If it's the PCB, the power supply adjustment might solve it.

It's the monitor that's not starting up (or rather it start up, flashes white, then goes black). And only comes back and works perfectly on if I leave it powered for a few minutes then turn it off then back on again.

The reason I know this is because I tried powering the non-original PCB (a ArPiCade) with USB power to make sure it has enough juice.

Same thing also happens (have to turn on, then off then on to get monitor working) with the original PCB (Ms Pacman/Galaga). Not sure if related or not, but I have also found that the original PCB doesn't seem to have sound even after resetting to 5.05v.
 
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