SilverDuck
New member
This may or may not help, but when mine did that, I removed the main JAMMA harness from the PCB and took a pencil eraser to the connector surface on the board edge. It fixed it. Good luck.
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Operation Wolf
- Thread starter silvereagle
- Start date
OP
OP
silvereagle
Well-known member
I suppose anything is worth a shot since I am running out of ideas v
Is there anyway to test the game board in ordervto determine if it's bad or not?
Is there anyway to test the game board in ordervto determine if it's bad or not?
Womble
Well-known member
Double then triple check your wiring, am afraid to say but burning smells usually mean something has been destroyed.
It is likely that the board was toast when you bought the cabinet, the PSU probably died pumping amps into a shorted out board. Fitting a new PSU means the amps are back and can continue to roast the board. Disconnect the boards edge connector and take a good look at the board.
It is likely that the board was toast when you bought the cabinet, the PSU probably died pumping amps into a shorted out board. Fitting a new PSU means the amps are back and can continue to roast the board. Disconnect the boards edge connector and take a good look at the board.
OP
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Thank you for the help. I pulled the board and aside from all the dirt I don't see anything unusual but it does smell a bit funny. I wish there was a way to test the board just to be sure.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
So I decided to message the previous owner and ask him a couple of details on the machine. Basically the machine has not worked for 2 months and before quitting, the screen flashed white just like the old NES console. This sounds to me like symptoms of a dead board. Can anyone else confirm this so I can be sure and have some closure on where to go from here?
Thank you
Thank you
OP
OP
silvereagle
Well-known member
Today is my lucky day. Replaced the power supply, double and triple checked my voltages and voila! The game turned on, I can't describe what I was feeling. It's such a great feeling to get a game working again with the help of you wonderful members
Everything seems to be good with the exception of the sound. I can hear the games sound very faint and when I turn up the volume I get a lot of buzzing through the speaker. If I move the terminals on the speaker it quiets the buzzing sound but it still doesn't give me clear game sounds. Any ideas guys?
Everything seems to be good with the exception of the sound. I can hear the games sound very faint and when I turn up the volume I get a lot of buzzing through the speaker. If I move the terminals on the speaker it quiets the buzzing sound but it still doesn't give me clear game sounds. Any ideas guys?
DarrenF
Well-known member
Replace the connectors at the speakers. I'm guessing they're 1/4" crimp-on quick disconnects?
If it's not fixed by the wiring and connectors, you likely have a bad cap or two in the audio section and/or a bad audio amp. These fixes would require desoldering and soldering...
If it's not fixed by the wiring and connectors, you likely have a bad cap or two in the audio section and/or a bad audio amp. These fixes would require desoldering and soldering...
OP
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silvereagle
Well-known member
I believe so Darren. Would a shorted out speaker cause this issue or even a bad volume pod? If it ends up being bad caps, I may just try to purchase a full working board. I'm handy with soldering but never desoldered and soldered new caps before.
I do have a spare Chase HQ and Continental Circuit pcbs that have attached soundboards, would they be the same as Operation Wolf's?
I do have a spare Chase HQ and Continental Circuit pcbs that have attached soundboards, would they be the same as Operation Wolf's?
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LyonsArcade
Well-known member
No all three of those are completely different (most games are). You're doing pretty good if the video works on your Operation Wolf board, I had about 6 different, dead gameboards and eventually had to part my machine. I've fixed a lot of machines... if you've got an Op Wolf that isn't working, it's a really tough one. You can't even pay to have the board fixed, nobody works on them.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
I hear you Lyonsarcade. I found a couple of boards that apparently are working, just waiting on pricing and shipping costs. Even the machine gun registers hits, just doesn't have a working recoil but that's something I can always look at a later time. I guess if I can find a working sound board assuming that's the problem, I'm not doing too bad I guess.
If you can use a soldering iron then replacing caps is easy! And a lot cheaper than a new board!
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silvereagle
Well-known member
I would attempt it if I found a working replacement board. Who would sell thesencaps and how do I know which one / ones need to be replaced?
Replace all of the caps! They can dry out after 20 years.
Generally speaking, caps are not that expensive and probably not too many. You can look at the existing board and write down the numbers on the caps. They consist of two values: i.e. 100 uf / 25v. Uf values have to be exact and V (volts) have a minimum and values can only be higher, not lower. Otherwise, consult the schematics for the values.
Getting used to replacing caps is key to updating these old boards and super important for bringing an otherwise dead monitor back to life. However, where monitors are concerned, you have to be vigilante about discharging them and doing so carefully. But it is easy to do. Bob Roberts sells an awesome tool for discharging: http://therealbobroberts.net/sb.html.
Caps:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp
http://homearcade.org/BBBB/parts.html#capacitors
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I dont think I'm meant to own this game
Replaced the power supply, made sure all the wires were in the proper place, turned on the cabinet, smelled something burning and shut it off right away. Never seen any smoke or where it was coming from and still doesn't work.
This sucks!
Believe me .. we all at some point have had this happen. This hobby requires alot of patience and willingness to learn. Glad to see you got it running.
kb0jjn
New member
I have several of these boards and I am trying to get a sound board working first. I have some very odd boards that don't even look like the others (processor board).
When I replace the camera that got wet, I will post pics in a new thread.
I hope to have at least one working set from the 7 1/2 I own.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Just wanted to update my results with this game. Took the gun apart and found the problem with the recoil which was a broken wire. Also purchased a unstested PCB which ended up having bad video but good sound board so I was able to get one fully working board out of the two. The game now plays like it should with recoil and sounds great 
On to restoring the cabinet over the next few months.
Thanks to everyone that helped me though this long road.
On to restoring the cabinet over the next few months.
Thanks to everyone that helped me though this long road.
cadillacman
Well-known member
GIVE YOURSELF ONE BIG "ATTABOY"
good work man. Mine was kind of the same way i had two machines and lots of parts...
I ended up building two working machines and my spare pcbs were junk top and junk bottom by the time i was done heh.. but at least i ended up with a pair of good working ow..
good work man. Mine was kind of the same way i had two machines and lots of parts...
I ended up building two working machines and my spare pcbs were junk top and junk bottom by the time i was done heh.. but at least i ended up with a pair of good working ow..
OP
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Thanks cadillacman. Out of the two Taito cabinets I own, this one was the most challeging. It was somewhat of a frustrating experience getting to where I'm at but I learned a lot along the way which makes it all worth it in the end. Can't wait to see it finished so I can enjoy the fruits of my labour
