Operation Wolf Restoration - Oorah!

Gun repair time...

Was able to grab a Riptor repro optic board from another KLOV member. Good timing. lol I also picked up another gun assemble a while ago I hopes that I could make one good complete gun from the two.

Removed the geared mecha assembly. You dont' have to remove the entire gun assembly to repair/clean the geared mecha assy. Just remove the top cover of the gun with a T-15 torq screw driver (4 on the rear and 2 up front toward the barrel). There are 3 screws (Pro tip - you might need to move the gears with your finger to view/remove the middle screw) in the middle of the assy that you remove that allows you to lift the entire mecha assy out. Don't forget to disconnect the spring from the trigger first though.

NOTE: Most of the screws and bolts at this point have Locktite on them. Eat your Wheaties before starting the gun tear down. :)
any idea where I can find a Riptor repro optic board?
 
I dont think he makes them anymore. You'll have to try the "for sell" or wanted here on klov and see if someone has one to sell. Good luck.
 
@KaBoom1701: I'm restoring my own Operation Wolf and your thread is very helpful. A few questions about your gun cleaning and assembly:

  1. Any idea what those ceramic capacitors are for on the gun motor wires? Mine doesn't have those
  2. Did you happen to have any photos of the little rubber spaces you mentioned that go under the optical board? I think mine are missing and I'm not sure what to substitute for them size-wise
  3. How much play/looseness should there be in the gear/linkage assembly when it is reassembled? In particular, how much left-to-right horizontal play/looseness did you end up with? Mine seems a little loose and I'm wondering if I should shore it up with extra washers....

Thanks
 
@KaBoom1701: I'm restoring my own Operation Wolf and your thread is very helpful. A few questions about your gun cleaning and assembly:

  1. Any idea what those ceramic capacitors are for on the gun motor wires? Mine doesn't have those
  2. Did you happen to have any photos of the little rubber spaces you mentioned that go under the optical board? I think mine are missing and I'm not sure what to substitute for them size-wise
  3. How much play/looseness should there be in the gear/linkage assembly when it is reassembled? In particular, how much left-to-right horizontal play/looseness did you end up with? Mine seems a little loose and I'm wondering if I should shore it up with extra washers....

Thanks

Hey @TripleToe

Glad you could use some info posted in this topic.

Here are the answers to your questions based on what I know.

1. - Those are RF Filter caps as required by the FCC back in the day. Shouldn't need them for gun operation in a home environment. Check out page 4 of the cabinet service manual I posted in the first thread.
2. - I took a picture of the rubber senor board spacers as installed under the optic board. They are nothing special and only about 1/8" in height. I would just take the screw that holds this board to the gun to your local Ace hardware or similar place and find something close. Again, in a home environment you may not need these but I feel they do help to protect the optic board from vibration and shock from when the gun goes nuts when you get a "FREE" auto fire goodie. :)
3. - I have anywhere from 1/16" to 1/8" play in the linkage in the gun. Shouldn't be a big deal to have some as long as the parts stays together when the gun is activated.

I added some pics to help.
 

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Here's a better picture showing the rubber washers that the optic board sits on
 

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Got inspired to work on OW a bit today. I was able to grab some NOS parts from arcadefixit.com

-NOS Return Spring A
-Install Gun mask protection plate (from donor gun)
-NOS Stopper rubber and cover

Most OW cabs I see suffer from the same issue. The gun springs have worn out and it does not self center to level when let go. Removal of the gun is very simple. Just disconnect the two harness conectors behinde the upper coin door and remove the large nut holding the washers and cam.

As a bonus I got paid 76 cents to remove the gun. Lol
 

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The rest just involes removing the outer metal trim pieces and getting to the springs. You can replace the springs without take the gun apart or removing it as once you unscrew the outer metal covers the springs are exsposed. I had to remove the gun and disassemble part out the base to get the plasting gun mask in the right location.
 

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While I had access to the outer stoppers I replaced them with the NOS parts I had.

I took some pictures of the old vs new pieces so you can see how bent/deformed they were.
 

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Once the new parts were on I reassebled everything in reverse order and reinstalled the gun back into the cab. It looks great and the gun centers to level again. Played a few quick games for testing proposes and all good. I only replaced the small springs torwards the front of the gun. Didn't have the other ones to replace but everything seems to work out ok.

Now just to wait for a few more art pieces and I can do the exterior resto next.
 

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While I had access to the outer stoppers I replaced them with the NOS parts I had.

I took some pictures of the old vs new pieces so you can see how bent/deformed they were.
Question about the out stoppers you replaced: I took my gun apart and mine are just the rubber piece without the metal outer ring. Did your replacements from ArcadeFixIt include both the rubber center and the metal cover?
 
So this is the most important thing I've added to my Operation Wolf cabinet by far..... perfect fit that allows the gun to swivel and protects the elbow from fatigue during gameplay. :cool:

Belkin Large Mouse Pad, 8 Inch by 9 Inch, for Computer or Gaming Mouse Pad, Non-slip Base, Neoprene Backing and Jersey Surface for Smooth Mouse Control and Pinpoint Accuracy (Black) https://a.co/d/5b1TJ2Y
 

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Got inspired to work on OW a bit today. I was able to grab some NOS parts from arcadefixit.com

-NOS Return Spring A
-Install Gun mask protection plate (from donor gun)
-NOS Stopper rubber and cover

Most OW cabs I see suffer from the same issue. The gun springs have worn out and it does not self center to level when let go. Removal of the gun is very simple. Just disconnect the two harness conectors behinde the upper coin door and remove the large nut holding the washers and cam.

As a bonus I got paid 76 cents to remove the gun. Lol
Lucky- I only made .50 centsCDAFB69E-7D68-4B7C-ADF3-1361AFD9D520.jpeg
 
Bumping my old restoration thread here.

It's taken about a year to get the art package I ordered from Rich and Kendra at thisoldgame.com

The final pieces arrive yesterday so know I can begin the cosmetic part of this restoration. From panel has all kind of holes and the bottom of the cab is all beat up.
 

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Oh man, I ordered side art, cpo, and marquee and bezel last year and just gave up last month and canceled the order. Not sure if I still want to replace my side art since it is in decent shape but just faded (with an Aladdin's Castle metal inventory tag on the side) but my bezel has tons of scratches where the barrel had hit it over the years; wish he'd done a large enough run of those to have them in stock.
 
Little update.

Thanks to my buddy @Mylstar FS thread here I was able to score a NOS gun assembly.

Got her all installed and it works great. Just had to adjust the springs a bit to get the gun to sit level at rest. Also needed to replace the Start button sticker. First impressions is the gun is super smooth. Even at full rapid fire the gun is just smooth.

Now I just have to get motivated to finish the cab off with the new side art. :)
 

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Here are some motor pics of the NOS gun.
 

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