Operation Wolf optic board help please

robgill2008

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Hello guys,

I received a complete used Operation Wolf gun from Jumbo_000
He told me that he pulled it from a working game so I was only after the optic board inside the gun. The gun was packaged well and looked fine.
I replaced the board last night. It didn't fix my game. I want to assume the optic board he sent me was good. I wanted to ask some of you for help.

My gun vibrates, the gun sounds, the mortar launches/sounds, and the screen flashes white when the trigger is pulled.....
Still the shots do not register on screen.

I turned up the brightness on the monitor and cleaned it. I cleaned the gun lens and the plexiglass!

I plan on checking continuity from the optic board to their terminating points to the board and terminal blocks inside the cabinet this coming Saturday night with the help of a friend. We also plan to check for cold solder joints on the optic board.

Can any of you tell me what specific voltages I should measure on the four pins that connect to the optic board inside the gun?
Red wire voltage?
White wire voltage?
Blue wire voltage?
unshielded wire voltage?

Please Help Me!!! AAAAAARRRRRGGGG!

Thanks,
Rob
 
operation wolf optic board

Hello again,
When I was testing to see if the gun was registering last night, I had the back (access panel) on the game. And the room was dark. No ambient light no reflections. I do appreciate the advise but I am really in need of some more help.....anybody?

Rob
 
you have to clean the lens and make sure its seated. Iirc theres a rubber o ring that holds the lens in place.

What monitor is in there? I found that mine prefers a k7000.

Check all your fuses. ALso check the wires from the opto down to inside the cabinet. They tend to get frayed.

TOo bad your not local, id offer for you to test your gun on my game.

make sure that all the connectors are hooked up to your pcb
 
Hello again,
When I was testing to see if the gun was registering last night, I had the back (access panel) on the game. And the room was dark. No ambient light no reflections. I do appreciate the advise but I am really in need of some more help.....anybody?

Rob
Dude, did you look at the link? It has the voltages:)
 
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Hey thanks you guys,
I just ran out to the game and measured the voltages on the 4 pins. They are just bouncing around 0.4 volts.....

no +12 or -12 like the service manual shows. I didn't know which pin to check to see if the optic board has a good ground. I didn't have the manual in my hand. Unfortunatley, I will have to wait until tomorrow to see if I have a good ground to the optic board. If I do have a good ground. I will then see why I don't have +12 or -12 to the board.
I checked the connecters last night, actually the "Professional" that charged me $250 left that disconnected and told me I had a bad optic board. He did put in a power supply and a fuse.
Unfortunately, the first time I tried to "fix" this machine I had had about 4 too many coors. I "hot" swapped a connector on the main board...saw a flash...and the machine shut down. I learned a couple lessons that day. Then I learned a couple more when I paid the pro $250 to partially fix my machine. I guess I should keep a known working power supply and some extra fuses handy the next time I get stupid.


I am so glad I found and joined this forum.
Once again I thank all of you for trying to help. I think we may be getting down to the root of the problem. My original optic board might be good after all. I may just keep it as spare parts.

Rob
 
Unfortunately, the first time I tried to "fix" this machine I had had about 4 too many coors.
That's funny.

If you check from pin 1 to pin 4, you should get -12 VDC. Pin 2 to pin 4 should be +12 VDC. This will check your voltages and ground together.
 
operation wolf optic board help

Hey Supertechnoboy,
When I attempted to measure the voltages on the connector to the optic board, I did not have the schematic in my hand...printer problem. (No coors involved just ignorance of which pin to pin to check for the correct voltages. That said, I printed the schematic this afternoon, and went to work troubleshooting.
12 volts to ground = 12 volts....check/got it
-12 volts to ground = 0 volts.....aha/missing

After studying the schematic I found that the source for the -12 volts is the AUX Power Supply Board.

As you probably well know...this board supplies two separate voltages. The side of the board that is supposed to supply the -12 volts (on the output) is dead.
The other side of board seems to fine...producing a slightly high 13.89 volts.
I then checked the input side of the aux board....the voltages to the input side are where they supposed to be. So now I am thinking one or more of the components are bad on the negative supply side. I thought about finding a wall pack to use as a new source for – 12 volts...but I don't think I have ever seen one with a negative dc output. I think maybe I can buy most of the components at a local electronic supply store.

Any more advice/opinions from you are welcome and greatly appreciated. And thank you for helping me thus far.
Hopefully I am on the right track since the optic board is not receiving the -12 volts.
Thanks a million,
Rob
 
operation wolf optic board....some progress....little help?

Hi again KLOVers,
I am quite proud of myself. I pulled my aux power board out and just reflowed the solder. I then got my fluke dmm and started looking at the caps...I found one that was dead. So I went to scrambling since I got rid of most of my electronic boards. But I had an old circuit out of a alarm clock radio. The board had (and the schematic confirmed) a 35v 10 micro Farad cap. I found a 25V 10 micro farad cap. I didn't know how and if it would affect the output but it's all I had handy to try.

I got the cap soldered in, and put the board back in the machine and checked the output. the -12 Volt was at somewhere around -11 volts. Not perfect but a heck of a lot better than 0 volts.

I immediately checked to make sure that negative voltage was getting to the optic board connector. When I checked from pin 1 to pin 4, I got -10.4 volts. (Pin 4 to 2 is measuring +11.53 volts.) Close enough for me to try. So I put the gun back together.

Well, the screen was registering shots. Unfortunately, the shots were only hitting in a vertical line across the top of the screen. Still it's progress. The grenades can hit different parts of the screen however both the shots and grenades seem to hit right and left despite where the gun is pointed.

The first thing I did after the success/failure was to grab my old optic board. The one I was told "needed replacing." I put it back and it behaves exactly as the board I got from jumbo_000. So it does look like I might have some spare parts. Which is fine. Better to have them and not need them!

I thought again to adjust the brightness. I cranked it up, no improvement. I put the game in test mode with dip #3 on dip strip A. I assume that you are familiar with the grid that comes up on the screen with the white/red/green/blue squares that gradually go from left to right and get darker. I started adjusting on the monitor's "Drive and Cutoff" pots for each color. Despite knowing what exactly I was doing, while looking at the test screen, I adjusted the pots for each color, and I paid special attention to the vertical lines between the color I was adjusting and the corresponding color on the screen. If I cranked a color too much the lighter gradient would start "seeping" horizontally into the next square of the same color. So my best guess was to turn them all up as high as possible but keeping the vertical lines as sharp and defined as possible. I hope you can understand what the heck I am explaining about the monitor here.

As far as the voltage to the optic board...I could see it needed to be closer to -12 volts than it currently is, which I have already found some replacements for that aux board here on KLOV.

So what do you think? Any suggestions? .
Or should I just set the son of a bitch on fire in the front yard? LOL!

Rob
 
I just measured my voltages at the gun, and I'm getting +13.49 and -12.36, so your -10.4 is definitely low. I can't say for sure that it's causing the problem, but it does not match mine.

As far as the cap that you replaced, the voltage designation is just the maximum voltage that the capacitor is rated for. If the circuit is subjecting the cap to no more than 25 volts, then you have a perfect replacement.

Have you tried jacking up the contrast? It's something else to try that's free. Maybe down with the brightness and up with the contrast. It sounds like your gun is definitely TRYING to do something.
 
I had one I worked on that had improper hardware on the gun and was shorting the optic board to ground when it was installed. Shorter bolts and everything worked great!
 
operation wolf optic board

I had one I worked on that had improper hardware on the gun and was shorting the optic board to ground when it was installed. Shorter bolts and everything worked great!

The bolts that were too long, you are referring to: Were they just some of the screws that hold the gun together or were they the two that actually hold the optic board in place? Do you remember how the gun behaved? Was it similar to the symptoms that I described after I got the shots to register at the top of the screen.

Oh, and thanks again supertechnoboy for taking the time to tear your gun down to measure the voltages for me. That took you time to do....as I well know. I may breakdown and spend a little money for a couple of aux boards. Hopefully that may get the voltage up high/low enough.

Also, on that aux board that I replaced the cap there is a "C3" it is not like the more common electrolytic caps I am familiar with. It is small and has a little "brown bag" over it that has a "104" on it. When I checked it in the board, I got an indication that it was bad. When I pulled it out of the board and checked it on the bench it seemed to be ok. So I just put it back in. Maybe it is keeping the voltage from reaching -12 volts. "C3" and "C4" are in parallel on the board. "C4" is the one I replaced. Just some more information that I thought might help you guys help me.

Anything you guys wanna offer me....this is almost fun trying to get this pinta fixed.

Rob
 
The bolts were the ones that held the access panel to the top of the gun.
The symptoms I was having were the same as you had initially, no hits registering though the screen flashed.
 
operation wolf work continues

R5G, sent me two aux power supplies..$16 sounded like a steal.....Maybe my chances will be 50/50

Rob
 
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